Patcon

Evidently this is difficult to source in the US. We would have to get it directly out of Japan. I did some looking and even some of the sources available from other countries are being drop shipped out of Japan.

I agree! I think they are a really nice variation on that wheel.

Nahh, just need to find a new project.

@Home Built by Jeff Jeff, Did you see any of the threads on the forum about dash repair? A number of people have had good results with filling the dash and using SEM products to recolor and texture the repairs

Could be a beautiful car, but will need lots of work. I think it would be harder to restore in a left hand drive market than a right hand drive market. I suspect there will be lots of little 432 specific parts that will be needed. Probably easier to restore it in japan than anywhere.

Actually I cut them off! I think I have it figured out. The rotors are on the car with the calipers rebuilt and set. Thanks for the offer though!

I agree they are not very noticeable below the finisher. I thought I might plate them to prevent them from rusting. I don't see being able to get them well painted if they are on the car. We'll see

I will work on them this weekend

That would be fabulous Jim!!! What is the original finish? Were they painted with the car? It seems like black chromate would be the right color for them...

I missed the second picture. I saw the first one with the correct dimension. I will keep my eyes open for them. What kind of shape do they need to be in?

It's an amber, did Jim have a thing for red heads?? I mean it's sort of difficult to know. He sort of liked all the women with a pulse. Blonde, brunette, green...

Did I miss something or were those the correct earlier door cards. I thought the later ones were more than 5 1/2" from the door edge? I'm so confused!!!

Excellent!!! Thanks Steve. I still need to come see you, if only to visit and see your progress

yes @JLPurcell

I found a part number for the clips 79907-E4101 Evidently NLA

I thought about that, but they was some rust near by and I was concerned it was underneath the trim. Hoping if I go this route and remove all the rust. What did you use for refinishing the panels? Also, as an aside, these panels are EASILY bent. They can also be straightened by hand if needed.

Intake manifold leaks...maybe. Although I would suspect lean not rich on manifold leaks

I wondered about width as an issue. I am waiting on the bumpers to come in to verify everything is correct.

I finally got Cody to do something today. I am waiting on just a few pieces for the tranny but in the meantime he needs to get the cases clean. This was after oven cleaner Thanks Cliff @siteunseen This was after blasting. We used the pressure pot because it's too big for the blasting cabinet. I need a bigger one... There was an interesting number on the top of the belllhousing He then shot a couple of coats of Diamond clear on it. Hopefully he will do the back half this weekend. In relation to that, does the shifter arm have a slot for the locking bolt to position it? We need to strip the rear case and I wouldn't think the shifter would have to be set in a certain position. I am assuming the rod is notched to allow the bolt to pass beside it and set the arm in a specific position.

I considered that. I got the top pulled together with out too much trouble The bottom, not so much. I got a lot of it back, but not all of it. There is a good bit of tension on that chain I need to figure out a solution for these clips The little clips that hold the tail light finisher are actually a loose piece. They are just clipped onto the brackets. Anybody got any ideas? I would think someone could find a suitable replacement. @240260280 Hoover?? I also worked on the rear finisher trim. I wanted to get the trim off so I could strip the panels and paint them. I did manage to get it off. So I can clean it and polish it. Then I will reinstall it, I hope. My two big concerns are, can I get it back on and will it scrape the paint off when it goes back on. We'll see...

Thanks! Yes, it can be frustrating. Here is the latest frustration. The car got wider above and below the floor!!!! I don't see how that's possible The slam panel aught to go all the way to the yellow line, it's about 1/16" short now The lower valance aught to cover all the rust and there is a small tear that aught to fit into the corresponding rip This is probably off by an 1/8" The car doesn't really flex. I don't know if I can pull it back together. I also don't see how the car could have gotten wider from the pulling. If anything it should have gotten narrower. ?

I worked on the sub frame some on Sunday afternoon So this is where I am starting at I had already pulled the floor pan back out at this point We got one side pulled out but the drivers side, that took most of the impact, wouldn't come all the way out The drivers side bumper mount had been pushed back and no amount of slamming on that hammer was going to move it. So more spot weld cutting! the results It will take some dolly work now, but I will wait on the new bumper before I refine it. The new problem is after several hours of dolly work on the rear panel it looks much better. But it needs some shrinking and where I welded in my patch I set the curve in the incorrect shape. I will probably have to slit it and reshape it so it will fit the car properly

So 4 hours spent stripping panels on Satuday the epoxy primer was really difficult to get off. Also I don't know what Nissan used a s seam sealer, it's sort of beige, but it's really tough stuff even 50 years later Also "Lizard Skin" takes some work to get off too. It is basically a rubber type product when it dries You can see where I worked on the center section in the past. That must have been my old welder because the new welder makes better welds than that. It's hard to see in the pictures but the panel has a lot of dents and warping

I may have one laying around, if you want me to look?

Much better!