Patcon

So I put door hinges back on the car today. I marked them with pencil after adjusting the doors before paint. This should make them fairly close for where they need to be Go pedal repainted and reassembled Interesting find today. The marker light lenses are two piece!! So you can see the funk between the layers here This is with the layers seperated So I will have to figure out this going forward. I would prefer to use factory lenses. They are different than the aftermarket ones. So here is a new problem!! The CLSD R200 diff has an input flange that is much bigger than the rear of the driveshaft I was using in the "Brown Z" So How do I solve this?? @grannyknot@Zed Head

This is what the factory driveshaft bolt looks like

Lily has the later bars and an R200 diff. I think the main interference comes from the size of the CV boots compared to the Ujoint and the fact they extend further under the car than the Ujoints do

I heard back from ST about the sway bar interferences. "We design our sway bars for factory parts. If it has other parts we can't help..." So I will have to figure out the links on my own

After looking at the transmission going in, I believe it is a FS5W71B close ratio gearbox. So some cutting will seem necessary...

The plan is to go manual 5 speed.

That sounds like progress. It is a great forum!

My thought process was a temp tank close by, especially if it's close to fender level, makes it easy to prime the fuel pump and verify it's functioning

Working on sorting the ST sway bar end links. I thought I would put the bars underneath the axles but that won't work. Going over the top will require longer links Over The links will have to be about 2 inches longer. The hardware is SAE but I might try to convert it all to metric

Even though I may take the quarter glass out sometime in the future, I went ahead and put the lower seals on. I lined the notch up pretty close to the inner lower edge of the quarter window I got the hatch glass in. I started but Cody had to help me get it the rest of the way in. My hands were cramping bad by the end trying to keep the glass squeezed down so the seal would lip over. Actually it is a little lower in the hatch then I would want. I started the string at the top edge. It might be better to start it at the bottom edge I also got the door bumpers in. I trimmed the excess paint out of the holes first and then I put them in. Soapy water on the first one and a small flat blade screwdriver. I used silicone grease on the second one and that seemed easier overall.

I polished a set of lenses for the front turn signals. I also found a set of front turn gaskets to clean up

I finished the dash up this week. At least enough to go in... Got the steering column in too. waiting on bolts for the steering coupler

I worked on the tail lights some more. Selected the better used parts I have Disassembly requires removing this little locking disc off the plastic prong on the middle of the light trim I have never removed one successfully These are the retainers on the inside of the lens holding the trim on

Can someone confirm this the factory 240z shifter boot ring? Lily is an automatic car and this ring doesn't line up at all with any of the four bolts welded to the tunnel Also what fasteners are used to hold the ring down. Bolts or sheet metal screws???

I would start with the external tank, I believe. One less variable. Once it runs properly add the main fuel system and pray you get the same result

That's good progress! How close are you to being ready for startup?

Can you give any feedback on approximate cost for a switch rebuild?

That's good 115v would be much easier to use. Any concerns about water near the motor or GFI protection?

What about Jim Arnett? 😉

Are you running 115v or 230v?

Thanks Ernest!

There are so many little things that need redoing or correcting but at this point the car just needs to get done and enjoyed for a while. It is unlikely it will ever be sold because my kids will all fight over it. So it will fall to one of them to correct the things they don't like if I don't get around to it

There are many things in life that are not used in the way they were intended or good ways. That doesn't make the thing the problem but instead the application. Like many of these things, we here or most people anywhere can't stop the misuse of these things. The best we can do is use these things including the Series 1/2 designation in a responsible way and move forward.

I don't find the Series 1 / 2 terminology offensive. I look at it as a general description that gives some idea of the traits the car could have. It's not normally used as a hard and fast rule or an absolute. I find the terminology very helpful and always have. If I want exactness I use production dates but it's very rare I care that much.

Cody worked on the brake booster some. I found a longer clevis. It also has a larger diameter pin which fits better in the pedal This brought the pedal height up and against the brake switch We messed with quarter windows last weekend. It was frustrating. Probably one of the tougher jobs to do, especially by yourself and get them right. We did get them installed last weekend. I wrapped a string around them to make it easier to get the lip turned out properly. But at the back of the drivers side window, it got really tight to the body and the seal ripped instead of turning out. On the passenger side, I wrapped the seal too tight to the glass and it didn't seal at the back corner of the glass Fortunately for some odd reason I had an extra set of quarter window seals. So this week in the evenings I redid the quarter window seals. We put them back in yesterday They both pretty much seal but they're still not quite right. The passenger side gap closed up but the seal turns in a little at the back becuase it doesn't have enough pressure on it to make it flair evenly. The drivers side does the same thing but in a different location. I visited Inline6 this week and saw his immaculate car. He said he used a slice of a bondo spreader to work the lips out from the inside of the car. It is flexible to put it down between the glass frame and the body to push from the inside. Tips for quarter windows. Grannyknots pick idea works really good to help manipulate the frames. Also just get the screws all started then work on getting the lips all turned out. The windows will still move a little until they're all the way tightened down. Also if the doors are off you can use the door jamb up by the door hinges to help push with your foot to get enough force to push the window back in place I finished the inner weatherstrip on the hatch yesterday and got the hatch back on. It sits a good bit proud of the body because it's so new. Hopefully it will relax over time I also used some silicone grease on the weatherstrip at the hood hinges to keep the hinge screws from nipping the weatherstrip. Seems to be working