Patcon

I doubt 20k would be enough

That's all great progress. The plating looks really good! In almost 40 years I don't think I've ever take the exhaust manifold/down pipe joint loose without breaking at least one of those studs.

Take a picture of what you really have. I have never seen one welded in place

I don't know. Maybe somebody with a more complete parts database will chime in. It would be nice to know but for now it appears to be an original harness in a car a month earlier than Lily. The brown z was my daily driver 30 years ago, so I should be able to get Lily going with the donations

Yes, it can probably be done from the top. Easier with two people though. The clutch isn't as sensitive to air bubbles as the brakes are. Get most of the air out. Make sure you have good clutch lever movement. Make sure it changes gears properly once it's running.

Fascinating, it looks like it's got a 9/70 manufacture date. The Exx50 makes me wonder if it was a small revision somehow?

So I need someone with the factory parts book to check something for me. I looked on car parts manual but they don't show a corresponding number for these dash harnesses. They are close to the early car dash numbers but not exactly the same. 24013-E4650 & 24013-4651

I think I am going to take the ignition switch and combo switch all together since I know where that ignition key is 🙂 I have a 5 speed that I took out of the brown Z that will go into Lily. Haven't really ever taken the time to ID it

I saw atleast one of those today. I will look tomorrow and check car parts manual. I was hoping the same thing based on the 140psi gauge. Although the cigarette lighter location makes me wonder. PS my daughter gets married next weekend in Ohio. I hope to have time to come visit shortly after that

So later dash in an early car? This is in the "Brown Z" Cody had suggested a great plan. Cannibalize the Brown Z for the dash harness I need and anything else so I can get Lily done for now. They are only a month apart. But I saw the dash and hazard label and then I started wondering what was what?

So I have a question. What year is this dash? And what year is this panel?

I like the spot weld cutters like this or this I do not like this style A little oil helps. Be careful with the bit corners, they are brittle and easily damaged. Constant pressure helps. The carbide or specialty coated ones last a lot longer. My tool of choice for spot welds is a die grinder with one of these That section of the frame is pretty stout. It's thicker than a lot of other areas of the car

I would drill out the spot welds if possible. I would think that would be the best method for the most invisible repair

Ideally, you would remove the whole tower and replace it. Or you could just move the center mount of the shock tower and patch in the metal around it to make it look right

It would be pretty easy to make those shock towers stock again. Provided you know how to MIG. Just make sure you get the front end on level and square. A frame rack would be best for that

Holes can be welded up...

Just the remember the float bowl hoses are unique. They are not standard fuel line. They are softer and more flexible

So is the throttle shaft a custom part too?

I think the upper frame rail at the hood hinges is available as a repop. I don't think the front inner fender area at the radiator support is available but KF vintage might make it if asked

All of that is above my "paygrade" 😉

@Zed Head you've done great. Very patient, very tenacious!

I may be missing something but both cam lobes on #1 don't appear to be up in that picture...

Where's my build thread for Mr. Rusty???

Radiator cap could also be weak. Not holding proper system pressure

Glad to see you're still at it!