Patcon

It will be easier to separate them if the engine tilts down some. But if you don't support it, the valve cover will hit the firewall. Many people recommend getting two sacrificial bolts that match the transmission bolts. Then grind the heads off. You hand thread them into the block to act as alignment dowels when you remate them

I did... I would install it loose and then when you like how it fits tighten everything up. I used exhaust paste. I don't think I would do that again unless I had a leak! I haven't found anything that will dissolve the exhaust paste. I think a paint stripper with MEK would be necessary or a chisel. And chisels and prett SS exhaust don't mix. So hopefully I don't have to take it apart anytime soon. I made my hanger pieces after I had the exhaust in the way I wanted it. The tabs on the muffler help to get it oriented the right way. Check the exhaust tip and make sure it is correct. I had to tweak mine so the bevel cut looked correct and plumb

As an aside, how hard was it to get the car up on the 2x4 block towers?

I'm not totally sure. I would expect the input that makes it click is switched power. It might be switched ground. I would expect 4 wires on the relay. Power in and out on the coil. Power in and out for the solenoid. So the solenoid "in"aught to have 12v when the ignition is on. If it doesn't the relay closing isn't goint to do anything. If it does have power, then when the relay closes you should have similar voltage on the solenoid "out". If not the relay contacts are fouled. Maybe Zed or someone can elaborate with terminals and wire colors

Did you check voltage at the input and output of the relay when "clicked" and "not clicked"?

I have bought many things from Zcardepot. I have found their service and website to be very good!

I believe the Jenvey's will bolt right up but not positive. You could email Redline and ask. I believe they sell Jenvey's

Welcome! Why dont you provide some personal background and your experience with wrenches? I would have advised you to buy the exterior door handle off Amazon if you didn't. I bought a matched pair recently. They look great and they were cheap. If your going to try to fuel it from a can then both supply and return lines will need to go into it. I probably wouldn't try to start it without cleaning or replacing all the chassis fuel lines and disassembling the fuel rail and testing the injectors. If the injectors are good and the rail is full of varnish you will ruin them trying to start it up. I would also start with verifying the fuel pressure regulator is good and works appropriately You are correct, there is no dipstick on the manual trans

Even if a relay closes that doesn't mean the contacts are passing power or don't have high resistance

@Matthew Abate Could you 3d print a new case and scavenge the rocker and guts from a donor switch?

Are "parking lamps" what we'd call fog lights? Or something else?

Because it was an easy place to get switched power and they're not a very good mechanic..

I would think up. The default position is down; no power. When you short out a gauge sensor, full current-> full heat, it rises quickly. So I would expect lower resistance on a gauge circuit would make it read higher. Maybe one of the "sparkies" will chime in

Maybe cleaner connections now. So more voltage reaches the gauge. So more heating?

No worries! That's great. I was going to suggest that. I did the same thing with one of my locks This should have the correct wafers https://www.ebay.com/itm/204248503359

Fascinating, didn't know that existed. So you can rock the boat and then name change to try to start over...

I believe new wafers are available but I bought a vintage kit off ebay that had wafers, springs and replacement face caps

You need someone with the parts fiches for other markets Gavin, Kats or maybe Alan

Thanks for the reply Garrett By texting with the Captain I was able to get to the right place I was stripping hatch locks because I am going to try to get some thimbles plated. So if you open the edges of the face cap up the spring and button will come up This is the exploded setup Then I couldn't figure out how to get this apart So if you press this lock wafer in it is designed to go out the front. But you need the correct key!!! I did not have the correct key for all my locks. IT will come out the front with enough "encouragement" 😉 I don't believe this did any permanent damage to the thimble So he are the exploded locks The thimbles are pot metal, like the gas door latches. Many chromers have concerns about plating potmetal. We'll see. I have a price from a guy on Facebook marketplace to do them. It was a good price but he's concerned they might peel. Still working on who I want to use

All three of these user names are the same person IMO... Not sure how that's accomplished but it's still the OP posting in his own thread

I don't think it's the alternator. Your battery would be much lower than 12.5 if the alternator was dead. It's probably either a bad starter, a bad wire or a dirty connection...

I was thinking original 240z springs were marked for front and back locations and I was thinking that they were also marked for the Left and Right side of the car too. If so it would make sense that they wouldn't match for different load conditions depending on which side of the car they're on

Do you have to have the original key to get the cylinder out of the lock assembly?

12.9 should be plenty! Even 12.5 should spin it.

@Captain Obvious @inline6 How do you disassemble the hatch lock tumbler?