Patcon

If you zoom in on the first picture you can see the seams on the molded corner

The sharper bend is at the top

They do today. I wonder if they will in the future when a higher percentage of drivers can't drive a manual car...

Or the dash foam may not be as full in that area...

No, any brand. They're likely all Asian and they should be fairly cheap with a laser pointer

I suspect the accessory relay but I don't even know where it is. I'm unsure if there are any other relays that would need checking

So I received a brand new ignition switch. Just the rear switch portion. Attached like so, with no key mechanism Turned it with a screwdriver No brake light until I bumped the starter. Then the brake light was on. When I turn it back quickly to the lock position the car continues to run, although poorly, and the brake light is still on

Buy an IR gun like this All kinds of uses. When your car is good and warm, shoot the thermostat housing and verify against the gauge . When the car acts up in traffic, scan the carbs, float bowls, fuel rail, etc to see if something is unusually hot

Those are really thick!

When we started we substituted a different switch on the back of the installed mechanism. Same result. Then I found my box of switches and tried two more. They all do it, but there are oddities. The brake light doesn't light up at first, but after I cycle the switch it stays on in the lock position. I'm unsure where to go from here. I will try the switch loose, maybe tomorrow, but I'm not sure if the detents are in the switch or the key mechanism

I am running the engine harness I stole out of the brown Z. I never replaced it with the harness you reworked for me. I was thinking there is a relay that provides power to the main systems like the coil? If I turn it quickly to the lock position, the car will continue to run, but not as nicely

Another option would be to get a large Die and cut more threads into the top of the strut housing...

Glitchy relay??

@SteveJ I know we discussed over rotation but I've tried 3 different switches. I think the problem lies elsewhere. Any ideas?

Possibilities: One gland nut threads down further than the other. So it clamps the strut One gland nut has a lot of wear internally One strut insert is slightly shorter than the other or is missing the collar on the bottom that they sometimes have The threads in the strut could be damaged slightly at the bottom preventing the gland nut from clamping properly You could try adding a space at the top inside the gland nut to clamp the strut but it might not center properly

I would love to get that jack hold down!

So I have an interesting ignition problem. The black switch which was in the car and keyed properly, when turned to lock still has power going through it and some times it will bump the starter if it's returned to lock too fast. I have taken it out and tried a different switch but I am getting similar results. I ordered a new switch from MAazon. It will be here Monday. If it does it too, I have no idea how to proceed... If I need to rekey an ignition lock, how do I get to the tumblers? This switch is actually for a smaller diameter steering column. 510 Maybe??

No, I have a different problem with my rear struts. My springs are not long enough at full droop. So they can rattle over train tracks

The two wires on the ignition switch are for the key buzzer, I believe

To add to Zed's response. No there should not be that much play. Some strut cartridges that have a smaller diameter require a different gland nut to hold the cartridge centered properly...

Buy a cheap electronic distributor and a compatible coil. As hot as it will handle Or Buy a 123 programmable distributor & coil Or Buy a coil on plug setup with wasted spark. Lots of options... After a pertronix failure left me stranded. I wouldn't have another

Here are the rubber covers https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-fuel-pump-sending-unit-wire-boots-set

Consider posting the print file in the resources section

I found that new rear taillight gaskets might not be enough. The housings warp and the body is typically not flat where they mount. I used DAP "Seal N Peel" caulk on the tail light gaskets to make sure they're sealed well. It applies like a caulk but is easily removed in the future I replaced all the evaporative system hoses and floor seals. I caulked the area around the filler neck. I also caulked the hoses where they passed through the floor in addition to the new seals. I replaced the seal at the antennae drain I installed a repro series 1 hatch panel. When I did I used Peel & seal on that too. I drove the car the other day with the windows down. I don't remember any fumes but I was focused on other things