Patcon

The Fpr is used to modulate fuel pressure using engine vacuum. With the engine off the fpr is basically inoperative. You should get the max pressure of the system, roughly 36, IIRC

Fpr is inoperative when the vehicle is off. I think I would start at the tank. You could rig up a temporary source of fuel instead of the tank. If the fuel pressure comes up, there is a problem in the tank

I'm not totally sure, but I think there are actually a bunch of adjustments available on flat tops which is what makes them hard to get tuned properly.

I've never gotten to where I like those electrical connectors. I still think a wire nut is a better joint. They are fast though. Those paper wasps would have been fun if it had been warm!!

I don't know if the seals I have are like that or not. I did reassemble one window already. I will try to look next time I'm in the shop.

I agree, a complete engine is a totally different price point

Do you have a speed square? Like carpenters use? You could set it against the face of the hub and see if the studs are coming through square to the hub face. Use the speed square to adjust the studs until they're close to square. Checking with the wheel as you go along. See if the shoulders are seated all the way on both sides. Measure the hub thickness both sides. Measure how much stud sticks out on both sides. Then you will be able to calculate if your studs are the same length on both wheels. Don't assume... Another thought, set the speed square across the face of the hub to see if it's flat. Maybe the hub face is bent slightly making the stud point in the wrong direction

I think there are a lot more people out there that would pony up $10,000 for this head than most realize. The cheap seats at the super bowl were $9000!!! It was full of people and this head will last a lot longer than the Super bowl! When you look at the cost to build an L motor up to this power level of $12-14,000 then this head isn't out of line. This head would also make it easier to build that kind of power on your own versus relying on a engine shop to port and polish a P90 head. I guess one of my questions is, would the new head only cost $10,000? Maybe it will be $20,000? They will still sell a good many but it will push it out of reach for many. I hope they make it and I hope it's quasi affordable.

So the shoulder on the wheel studs is all the way seated against the back of the hub? Are the hubs the same thickness? Yes, the studs look bent. I would thread a lug nut onto the bent one and tap it with a hammer to get it centered in the hole. The should move fairly easily. Don't get carried away!

I have found the 3m to be a lot like boogers and not very spreadable

Then I would start with Momo

Are you sure that is the proper adapter for the s30? Have you tried contacting Momo?

Please post up some pictures when you do the main hatch seal. Are you using the 3m adhesive on that? How do you apply it? Both surfaces?

Which adhesive are you using?

Granny, Can you elaborate on your hatch weatherstrip process, where you start, adhesive, temporary holding, etc?

I believe this is it. https://zcardepot.com/products/inner-fender-metal-shield-240z-260z-280z-70-76#

That splash panel is available as a repop. I think it's pretty cheap. Although shipping and import might make it impractical

Pretty car and seems like a good price!

The wheel isn't seated all the way against the hub face. Driveshafts would also be a suspect for clunky noises

This process with be easier with an AFR gauge. That way you can differentiate easily between rich and lean conditions

The action of the sander isn't the limiting factor. The abrasive material is. I suspect your glass polishing pads are diamond grit or something similar. You might be able to find suitable pads at a granite fabrication supply house.

They were in there before, correct? Did you have any issues or problems? If not I'd reassemble as before. Dont break it, if it ain't broke!

Understood, I figured the design would still have relevance because of the need to get either out of a mold.

Which would include the edges around the mounting surface and any other surfaces like that. I will try to look at the factory cover for draft. I've never really looked before but I bet those edges that I think are square to the mounting surface are probably slightly tapered.

Do you have or can you get the grit numbers for these pads? Then maybe you could source some intermediate grits with the right material...