Patcon

Details on the flaps around the glove box and inside the dash Pretty much stripped with the pad still on it

I don't have a lot of experience with Borla. I had a lot of specific requirements for the muffler. So I only had like 3 options and the Borla was the only polished one. They have a pretty good reputation. So we'll see how it sounds

So I did make it to the shop today for an hour or so. I put the hatch hinges back in with some sealant. They both go down nice and level to each other. Hopefully that is enough. I also worked on stripping the dash pad Here's where we started I recommend you take this piece at the glove box hinge out first and remove the hazard switch. I broke mine moving the dash around. Inside details

Got a muffler for Cody's car. This should fit

I do love the optimism of youth! 😉 Fuel rail has to be hooked up and fuel return line. Brake booster port on manifold connected or capped. Any other vacuum leaks on the manifold need to be sealed or capped. It doesn't even really need coolant in it as long as you run it for only a very short while

Yes MIG by leaning over into the car. Hard to see but I didn't get all burned up that way. Bought through JDM Car Parts but probably all produced from the same point

So last weekend and early this week I went to the shop for a little while I stitched up the pocket Then dressed them down After trying the hinges again, I added some clearance at the gutter edge on both sides. After that I brushed on some zinc rich primer. A little seam sealer and it aught to be ready to reassemble. Hopefully I can get the hatch flush now. If not it will have to wait for another day. This was going to be my project this weekend, but I've been sick all week and I haven't gotten over the hump yet... I might make it to the shop for an hour or so tomorrow.

Best looking Volvo there!

Good for you! 😉

Are you using a system like this? https://www.dustlessblasting.com/the-advantage

If you've done other cars with sheet metal this thin you should be fine. If you been doing American vintage cars, they are a lot thicker

If the metal gets too hot or overworked, it expands and becomes wavy. Basically ruined

The front frame rails look really good! Be careful blasting, the metal is thin and easily oil canned

Nope!!! 😉

Don't dismantle without the FSM!! Only disassemble one at a time!

I think he can get the car running if he cleans them up a little bit. If he finds tuning is an issue, he could rebuild them then. He does need to get the floats set properly though. It's my perception that the budget for this project is very limited...

@siteunseen Where is Rossiz conversion thread?

Gasoline in it's liquid form isn't flammable. The fumes are! Old gas even less so. One step at a time. Take the advise given and don't frustrate your help or it will dry up.

The toughest part of doing the water pump is getting the old bolts out without breaking them. Some of them are long and skinny. A little corrosion makes them difficult to get out.

You're last post sort of hits on this. Many of the things you read about this cars condition are probably not recent. There are many cars I see now that I would try to restore that I would have never considered before. The combination of available reproduction panels and the increased interest and value in these cars makes the old "basket case" a viable project.

Let's get it to spark, then worry about plug order. Incorrect order won't damage anything.

I believe my pedal box is from a manual. I rebuilt the booster but don't remember if there is adjustment somewhere else.

This belongs in your other thread. It's best not to start a new thread for the same problem

The brake light switch is there but I'm not touching it

I was measuring the pedal height tonight. The clutch is right at 8"s but the brake is like 6 1/2". How is the brake pedal height established? I don't appear to have any threads left on the booster pushrod to the clevis.