Patcon

I wouldn't cap them off on concern of pressurizing the crankcase and causing oil leaks

There are plenty of people out there where $100k is a nice night on the town. At some level of wealth, time is more valuable than money. Maybe he didn't want to look for another car or it ticked all the right boxes? We'll probably never know unless Alan's suspicions supply feedback at some point.

Yeah, I don't really know either but the guy telling me this has helped me for a number of years and paints cars on the side. Along the same lines, it seems like letting primer coats shrink for an extended period of time would have the same effect to prevent urethane wave

My paint supply told me I should cut and buff within 24hrs. That I would get better results before I let it get too hard. I don't always do that but I have found it easier to get good results that way

That is so cool!!!

They're proud of that. I googled the part number for the 280z and found sources claiming they were in stock for about $95. I didn't check the 240 part number Just checked that part number. Pretty much everybody I saw was cheaper than $308 Courtesy was $254 Amazon was $220 Plenty on ebay from $150- 170

Yes, it's a Z432. Not really comparable to any other S30

Looks like 17312-N4700 & 17208-N4500 are available

Looks good

Either the market has really gotten soft or that was the wrong venue

Yeah, that was my process too. It just didn't work out...

That seems cheap unless it was unfinished

No, my windshield gasket is from Zcardepot Once the windshield is in the car it sort of locks the trim in. So doing it in the car is even harder. @grannyknot Tips and tricks for putting the rubber on the glass with the trim in it?

Thanks The outer jacket has continuity and is isolated from the inner but the inner has no continuity. I will look for a new cable...

I dont know. These original Japanese bearings are made of really good stuff... I once replaced a transmission seal on a BMW z3 when I did the clutch. I later discovered nobody does that. It's too easy to cause a leak with the new seal where one didn't exist before. I did cause a new leak with my seal and roasted the transmission. Lesson learned! 😡

I figured it would be too difficult to do it that way. 😒 I'm going to try to use this seal for now. I can redo it later if I feel like it but it's between me and Tampa right now. So it will have to wait

It is interesting that Troy doesn't attempt that. He is very capable...

So the pins broke off the back of the emblem. I wouldn't use super glue. I would probably use epoxy if I wasn't going to try to find an emblem that's not damaged

So I switched gears, patience was gone on that one So I started putting freshly plated headlights back together with Steve Nixon's parts Then I hit a snag. The buckets are different. I was trying to figure out how the headlight seals from precision went on. Then I realized that one set of buckets didn't have the 4 little holes like the one at my thumb. The seals have for posts that pull through these holes So I had to reselect my buckets so I had 2 that both had the 4 little post holes Then I tried to figure out a way to feed the wires through the new wire jacket I got from Steve. I took the terminals out of this plug but even staggering them they weren't going to go through the jacket. So I tried to uncrimp this one but that wasn't happening and then I remembered that I had some new Vintage connections terminals. So I cut them off I still couldn't get them to feed through the jacket. So I had to feed a different single wire through the jacket from the other end and use it as a pull wire to pull the wires back into the jacket I got one bucket all the way redone! I love clean new parts!!!

I worked on getting the windshield ready for installation today. Super frustrating! I damaged the weatherstrip trying to get the trim into it. I worked this drivers side lower trim in from the outside in. That puts a lot of pressure on the seal when you get to the corner. The pic I was using tore the seal because of that pressure

@SteveJ I was Ohming out the radio antennae cables today. They have some areas that seem damaged and I wanted to make sure they were ok. The outside of the jacket rings out but the center conductor of the antennae cable shows as OL. I tested two different cables the same way and both did the same thing. Should the center core show continuity?

I think evaporust is much more predictable. It removes rust with out the really acidic pH levels

I suspect the problem is a rust problem. Inside the pivot there is a steel bushing. If the rubber seals go bad, water gets down in there and starts to corrode it together. When the metal rusts, it expands. A penetrant oil might help but I suspect the rust will have to be dealt with

Do not hammer on them! They will break. I would heat the outside of the pivot and add a lubricant like dutch suggested. Use some soft jaws or some copper padding in a vise to hold the bottom steel part. Heat the pot metal part with a heat gun. Add lubricant. Use some pliers to try to get it to rotate free. Keep rotating until its loose. I don't know if you can use something like Evaporust? It might damage the pot metal of the pivots. Maybe you could use some Evaporust but just apply it with a dropper on the pivot. With some patience I have had good success getting the loose. But no hammers...😁

Well, either you're living a duel life by day and night or your wife's been using your computer! If it's your wife that may work out ok yet! 😉