Patcon

I would love to make it, but it's not looking good. Funds are short and work may be crazy about that time frame.

A little PB blaster and bigger vise grips. the needle nose vise grips flex too much to really grip tightly

The "special washers" are what they call the oddly shaped plates. The bolts and lock washers are standard hardware

A lot of times the slop in the handle is the little small bushings in the shifter. They disintegrate, they can be replaced with brass ones and that takes out a lot of the slop...and they're cheap

@Namerow You could post them or download them so we could also benefit from your industriousness

Mathew Do you have a straight die grinder? You need one with a 4" grinder wheel. You also need a right angle grinder and get a 2" Rolock head. Some 2" Roloc pads in 36 grit will help you straighten the lines. they cut really fast. You could also get a body saw but not really a necessity, sort of expensive but would work in this application really well. Also I don't use files for anything! I'm old and don't have time to waste...

Got them a little while back Thanks, Jim @zKars

They look great. That's a pretty significant noise reduction. Heated seats, almost a requirement at this point, makes my back less temperamental. Love the stitching on the seats...

There is really no trick to bending other than not kinking them. Route them where they don't rub anything. The hardest part is really threading the connectors together again

Why would you put money into a tranny swap if your gonna pull it all in a year? Just asking...these engines aren't afraid of RPM's for extended periods...

Do you have a volt meter so you can do some testing? If not, charge it up with a good battery charger. Get it started and take it to Advance Auto or Oreilly's and have them check it to see if it's charging...

1317 transactions 100% positive, hmmmm

From what you see on Ebay the manifold is worth their asking price...

RIP John

Sorry Charlie...I either didn't see then or I just had an epiphany....

Don't blast the outside! The metal is thin, you will either warp it or cut more holes into it. There is no reason to pressure test the fuel tank. The tank coating will take care of any pins holes, if you see a lot of coating appear on the outside of the tank while lining it you will be able to figure out where it's coming from. Use paint stripper on the outside of the tank or sand paper. If you slick it up good with paper , it doesn't have to be perfectly clean, then you can spray it with what ever you want. Put some rock in the tank or a section of chain, fill it with acid. Hang it with some chains or a some rope or put it in a swing so it is easier to slosh back and forth. Presto, all clean. Seal it and be done. Don't over work this. Lot's of people have done it before you, it's not really that hard. As for the sender hole, cut a piece of sheet metal (metal can, flashing, etc) the same size as the sender and lock it in with the sender ring to seal up the hole. Do not leave the sender in the tank with the aggregate and the acid...

It's good to enjoy your day. I am too...

@Joseph@TheZStore

Thanks. I have dealt with them for under cabinet LED's pretty good to deal with

^^^ that is the way I would store the extra engine. Harbor freight for some cheap casters and some wood. I have 3 or 4 of those in the shop, they work really good

Do you have a link to the bulb?

PM Zs-ondabrain

Fogging spray is a storage oil that is primarily used for boat storage. You fog the engine while it's idling for storage between seasons, I don't have a brand off hand

I would put some oil (or fogging spray) in the cylinders and turn it over by hand and leave it alone and as complete as possible. Easier to store and nothing to find or look for...

I ran an epoxy primer on my parts but it is blueish-grey so I top coated with a single stage black but flattening it was a challenge. the epoxy aught to hold up well and it has a pretty decent sheen to it