Patcon

I sort of like that

It takes a while but you'll love it in the end. It is surprising all the little flaws that show up when you start blocking a big panel. The upside it will look like a mirror when it's finished and buffed

@kats Are you ok after the earthquakes? I wasn't sure where in Japan you were...

Those are very nice sheds

I haven't ever lifted the rear wheels but I suspect it makes it easier to get the tranny into the tunnel and not have to worry about ground clearance

Hmmmmmm, could be...

I agree seems simple in principle. Best bet would be someone who works on window ac units. Also if you need it repaired, make sure it doesn't need length added. That would be the time to do it

The welding won't take long but the prep work will take a little while and the hole below it will have to be retapped. Probably not out of line. The other numbers seem ok too

If I pulled a starter out of a box, I don't know that I would have looked it over or shone a light down past the drive gear to look for missing screws. I would have worked on the premise that all the screws were in it. I suspect they are hard to see around that gear when properly assembled.

The copper line normally has a bulb at the end that sits against the evaporator in the dash unit. I assume it has gas in it. It could probably be repaired but might be cost prohibitive

Happy Birthday

Well done

Is the starter a "reman"? That may not be on the mechanic if the starter didn't have the screws to begin with...

Contact Mike @ Banzai Maybe he can make some for you you have mail...

Used carbs are hit or miss. Ztherapy is the best play for a solid set of carbs. Rebuilt, rebushed, no vacuum leaks... Reasonable price, I guess that depends on your expectations, varies a lot...

Neighbors... highly over rated

Which Carl???

You can flex the hard lines enough to tip the master out of the way without disconnecting it. I don't know the dimension for you to calculate it and don't have a booster torn apart currently. It is easy to drop the disc down into the booster. It is possible it is already down in there. If it is, the booster will have to come off so you can shake the disc out. If it hasn't fallen down in the I use a little rtv to fix it to the end of the pushrod

When you push the pedal, part #5 in your diagram all moves forward, pushing the reaction disc that pushes the pushrod, that pushes the master cylinder. When you let off the springs in the master cylinder force the pushrod back to keep it in place in part #5

The pulley won't spin because it has a keyway in it. The bolts aren't very large so I wouldn't expect them to be terribly tight

What is your plan for numbering the plates? Dies or engraving? Font?

If the adjustment is out on the 6th cylinder, I would adjust them all. If I remember right you can do them two at a time because another cylinder will be lobes up at the same time #6 is

Cool. Post up you impressions here once it's in and you have some miles on it. Would be nice to add some feedback to the info already here

I'm on my heating pad right now too Like my buddy says "Getting old ain't for sissies..." Hit me up when you get close to being ready and we'll work it out...

Well I finally came up with something I think will work. It took several test panels to get it where I think it's right. I used Nason FulCryl II single stage mixed 8 : 3/4 hardener 483-11 : 1 1/4 reducer 441-21 when mixed to 6 sprayable oz's add 1 1/2 oz of Limco LF-10 flattener So a couple of weeks ago we scuffed everything down... Hung it all back up in the booth Made it all black this morning The sheen is pretty good. Has some sheen that you can see but not real glossy. If I had to do it over I might use the Eastwood satin but I have seen some issues with people having adhesion problems. The Nason has never been any issue. Sprays well and sticks really well. This is shot over Omni epoxy primer.... Time to order some bushings and get moving on reassembly