Patcon

Wow, Lord help me. I own one, I know I do, I just don't know if I can lay my hands on it. I will try to look around this weekend for it. I sorta know where to start. I believe on the 280zx the interior panel is molded with a bump out to accommodate the wiper motor

Be safe... C

I think that was the question. I believe he is looking to replace the steel portion of the flywheel but needs to ID it first...

Leaking where? How?

Try running a temporary feed line straight to the battery just for the memory power. Does it still lose memory when starting? Yes >>> battery / voltage issue No>>> look for bad / corroded connections in the harness reducing the transmitted voltage this would be my suspension for deeper drop when wired to the acc key position worst case, find a good discreet source for memory power and leave it like that

I am not sure, but just guessing, the ring gear may be drilled in a different pattern or it is easier to bolt in a complete rear end then move the parts to a new case and get the mess and gear lash setup properly. It is evidently somewhat difficult to get the preload right. Plus with used parts the mesh would have to be very close to the way the previous case was or you can have gear whine... I would love to learn moving the ring and gear and chunk over from the STi case is possible as for me that seems easier. Another possibility is the output shafts from LSD chunk are splined differently than the factory outputs...

I bought some silver bullet mirrors that I will try to find. They look like the ones people run on the front fenders on 510's and old Z's. I ordered them from someone that came up through the forum. They were ordered from a vendor so I was able to order the passenger side with the wide view lens.

I don't believe drilling the glass is an option. The rear glass is tempered and drilling it will release the tension and explode the glass. I kept the rear wiper assembly from the 280zx turbo I parted out. I think it could be adapted in the earlier hatch fairly easily. You would need to add a switch somewhere...

We had a Miata for a while and the seats never bothered me. The car was so small inside for me they didn't have to be too supportive because I was wedged in there anyway. We had the speakers in the headrest too, and I loved them. They made the stereo so much easier to here at lower volumes

I recommend you get some small 4 oz samples from a paint supplier first. Shoot it on a test panel. You can even change the base color grey, black & white. The color will vary some based on the underlying color, unless you get a lot of color on the car. Then you can see the color in person in the daylight. Pictures on the computer don't always color render well.

It is my understanding, the more current you pull the harder they are to turn...

This can be a problem even for dealers some times. I have to use a broker when buying cars out of Alabama because they don't recognize our dealers license. You also have to be careful if you plan to register the vehicle because many of the cars are parts only and unregisterable but they come as "Certificate of destruction" / "Bill of sale" or some other unclear description. When they quote ACV (Actual Cash Value), they are quoting the value of the undamaged car and then they normally give you an insurance adjuster estimate to repair. Normally it can be repaired for less if you have the resources and are a good scrounger...cars like this get sold for scrap weight. It is just the process they go through for the insurance company to get rid of the chassis. This car is a total burn. They rust like crazy after they burn and typically there will be a puddle of aluminum under them from where the head melted from the heat.

I am a licensed car dealer so we don't have purchase limits, but individuals have to place a deposit to be able to purchase from them. The larger the deposit the more buying power. Like all dealer auctions you bid, you buy it, it's yours! If it breaks in half after the auction pick up your halves and move on. Look at the fee schedule at the bottom of the page. They run about 20% or so plus the internet fee, plus the loading fee. They normally use large wheel loader forklifts to move the cars. I don't know how well that works on old S30's. It doesn't affect modern cars that bad. If you have an account, which you can open for free you can go to the yard and sign in and go look at the car. Only one individual per account number. The auctions run online and the software is pretty good. On old cars it's not a huge issue but not all cars are being offered by insurance companies. Some are what we call "setup" cars where someone made some repairs or took the expensive parts off and are running the car back through the auction on the "greater fools" theory. Also "Run & Drive" does not mean you can drive it home!!! It means it starts and can move under it's own power. Now it may sound likes it gonna fly apart or may not have any oil or antifreeze in it, but it is Run & Drive

I have bought cars from Copart for years. All of those cars are in my watchlist. They can be difficult to deal with and the fees are high but sometimes you find a diamond in the rough. now the secrets out...

Part of the problem with the hobby plater is the larger the surface area the larger power source you need. Also agitation and the shape of the part complicates getting a good even coat on it. I agree, I think it would cost more to ship if you can't get it done locally on the islands than to actually have it plated

I would love to have another road bike but my wife doesn't want me on the road with the texting drivers. We have a cyclist or two get killed around here every year...

I was thinking the same thing. The little clean area along the bottom perimeter of #1 looks like an area that steam might have been cleaning the combustion dome.

That's sort of what I was thinking. Scrape the glass then mirror glaze. Lines are gone...

I would tap it and be done, provided you got enough epoxy in the hole. The epoxy is plenty strong enough to hold the load the M5's can take

I hope they work out great. I love the idea of a power, heated seat. I have always liked the 350Z seats. They are deep and hold you in place really well...I was never sure if they were too wide or not

That was a good idea. I had never thought of running them with out the screws

Zup's buying!!! That is tempting, hmmm Missouri 800 miles need a Z running for that one...

Good find

I looked for a part number but couldn't find it. Someone else might be able to find it. I suspect they are available new. I probably have one if you can't source one...

Looks great!