Patcon

I think it looks great as is...polish it, protect it and put it on the car. I think the original finish is a distant second to that. It will also be easier to keep clean with the smoother finish

Most of the original horn buttons I see are cracked on the inside, so they don't stay on the wheel well. Did you have to deal with that?

I think you overlooked the mileage. Only one page has mileage and appears to be getting mid 20's to low 30's, that seems pretty good. Very pretty car and in really good condition. On a car like this mileage is the big thing. If it has lots of documentation to verify the mileage even better... NADA collector guides has average retail at $9,200 and high retail at $19,200 so your $13,500 seems more than fair for a really clean low mileage car... I hope you get a good buyer for your car...

The horn button on the wheel that you just sold, was that refurbished or a new item to complete the package?

Ebay or Zeddsaver

That looks like pretty tough stuff, used in some pretty demanding applications...

Very nice, now lets do away with the wire nuts...

That dash looks great! One of the best I have seen. I would love to know if he has any pointers for how to get the texture right and even and any other tips...

Are they too tall for the covers now?

Those turned out really nice. Much better than trying to source parts

Why don't you touch base with Z therapy and see if they're interested...

Looks really good! What is the product you used in the cowl area?

Guy, What transmission are you running?

I agree with Mark, I wouldn't be afraid to go but I always go "prepared" when visiting strangers from Craigslist and never alone. One of the satellite views looked like a 240z outside the back door, but hard to tell...

If this is the same guy and it appears to be, he seam seams very open about his past. What a disaster....

Be sure and post results, that should be interesting info...

VIN would help a lot, even the last four digits. Most lay folk don't realize all the other numbers are the same. If it's not too rusty the price could be a good deal. Anyone try to contact him yet?

If I were this deep into an engine, I would have the crank crack checked, polished and the assembly balanced. Before they polish they will mic it to see if it will be in spec after polishing, otherwise they will turn it. If it gets turned then you will need thicker bearings. Plastigage is not very exact but I use it because it gets you close if you use it properly. My machine shop normally helps with a lot of these details many times I get them to supply the bearings...

If I was robbed recently I don't think I would have posted my address unless I had a big dogs and something to back them up....

I would think drilled or slotted rotors would make a large difference. In the rain I use to drag the brake a little if I anticipated needing to stop to get the water out from between the pad and the rotor and to add some heat to dry things out.

I was going to check and make sure you got them. I hope they will work for you, let me know if you need any dimensions for mounting them.

Ditto that made me laugh out loud...

What is the extra piece with the yellow wire on the sender?

Do you get much salt air, where you're at? That looks like what happens to cars that are around the beach. The aluminum normally gets tortured too.

That's 5,500 rpm in reverse Good point on the crank Zed, I had forgotten about the bad keyway, the crank is pretty much stuffed anyway. When I take an engine apart, I rarely refresh, I just build them top to bottom. I hate doing a job twice and I one threw a rod out the side of a I-6 BMW motor that had been "refreshed". It costs some more but on a Datsun I probably won't have to touch it again in my lifetime.