Patcon

We got about 2-3 inches of sleet and freezing rain on Friday night then last night we got 2 more inches of snow on top of that. 20 minutes away from my house they got nothing. Everything shuts here when we get any accumulation. Our roads are not built for snow and nobody here knows how to drive in it so I just stay home. It normally melts in a couple of days. You are gonna have some pretty good totals if that keeps up. Build a fire, get a beer and stay warm. Be safe...

Guy how many inches of snow do you have so far?

NVZEE Thanks for that. I have a lot of the dime quarterly articles tagged in my favorites. Very good info there... It is amazing how hard some parts are to find. Stock wagon tail lights are $100-200 each. Some of the trim is almost unobtainable. Factory wagon gas cap - unobtainium The flip side is it makes you appreciate the support the Z has commercially. Some parts can be expensive but pretty much everything is available one way or another

You all are probably right, it is probably more but my back is limited to more or less 200#'s I can easily lift the front and I can lift the rear of a 240z although it is fairly heavy, but that is stripped. No harnesses, lines, suspension or panels. The car gets a lot heavier, quick when you start adding the other stuff back on Another way to do it would be to back into the weight 2300# - engine 600#? - tranny 120# - glass 120# - seats 120# - suspension & wheels 650#?? = 690# with the panels still on and lots of misc weight

Thanks, I hope putting the hours in will help him make good decisions. "Dime" parts are very hard to find on the East coast. If he crunches that hood we will have a hard time finding a replacement. It is our quality time, we have had a hard time relating, the car is a good connection point...

If I can find mine in the shop I can "mic" them for you. A template online would still be a good idea..

a stripped chassis is probably 300#-350#, I can pick up one end of the chassis by myself

I used large wheels on my rotisserie because I took the car to the media blaster on the rotisserie. We loaded the car and all on my car trailer so it was easy (i.e. cheaper) for him to blast. It also allows me to roll it outside into the yard if I need too.

I thought I would post this here, since I would only clutter up my own thread. Cody and I worked on his wagon today. We found a new hood with SteveJ's help as well as the radiator support I needed. The hood had some rust bubbles along the front so I knew it was rusted through. So I drilled out the edge of the hood and the places where the structure was welded. The rear edge of the hood where it is pinched over doesn't have any spot welds. I used a putty knife and open the pinch up a little to get it open enough to get the support structure out. I took the structure out of the hood. Then we used Eastwood rust dissolver to get the rust out of the inside of the hood. It worked pretty good, just kept brushing it on to keep it wet. The shiny metal is where the rust has already been removed. The process slows down when a lot of rust get into solution The structure of the hood had big globs of black stuff, sort of like silicone to bond it to the hood skin. I cut those with a putty knife This is what it looked like after we were done with "Rust Dissolver" Razor blade off the remainder of the black goo This is it with the structure laid back in it... I will take the structure to the media blaster to get him to strip it for us. We stripped the hood with aircraft stripper today. works great but don't get it on ya' Treated it with "After blast" and started dollying out the dents. Next we will prep the radiator support we picked up. Then I will reassemble the hood. If I decided to salvage a Z hood with rust bubbles on the front edge I would go at it the same way. The only way to get it clean and deal with the rust is to disassemble them.

Gav, You could always make them. The pattern is pretty simple. We might make a drawing template and just put it in the download section

Congrats on the car. There is a lot of good knowledge on here especially when solving complex issues. The tires will be pretty wide unless you cut the fenders. As far as boost, the guys at HybridZ can give you a lot of advise, but be careful, they will flame a Noob in a second...

I sort of like the polished look, but each to his own. Water jetting could be cool just for the ability to keep a more satin finish clean

I built a rotisserie out of 2 harbor freight engine stands, large HF casters, some steel plate and an old trampoline frame. I priced some steel to build it from scratch but the steel was so expensive it wasn't practical. I added plates to make the stands wider and give me a place to mount the larger wheels You can also see where I extended the frames to make them taller so the car could rotate fully. The two vertical pipes that are on each end are held by u-bolts throught the engine stand. So the car can be raised or lowered to get it to the proper balance point. The car is turned sideways because the shop is full of stuff. The car is very neutral and can easily be spun with one hand. You can use the pin on the engine stand to hold the car in any orientation. When I go to set it down on it's wheels, I can loosen the u-bolts and slide it down until it is close to the ground I bolted through some pipes to where the bumpers mount. You could do something similar I ran a pipe from one stand to the other with a large bolt for a set screw so the stands are tied together , so they don't stress the chassis. I wasn't too worried about the car falling on me because a stripped Z is pretty light.

The shims may or may not be necessary for whoever buys the doors. If they need them they probably already have them. The shims are used to make the doors align properly and account for variations between the doors and body panels. I have had cars have one on each hinge, one on just one hinge and none. Seems to vary. My advice would be sell what you can, when you can

Are you sure the valve cover is chrome and not highly polished?

Cancer sucks! Best wishes and always question the doctors advise!

I do that a lot. The conversation is always interesting and intelligent and I win all the arguments. What's the down side? Oh yeah, that...

Actually the off center cup is the eccentric that goes against the lever. If the bolt is loose or the cup were to break somehow the pump would quit working. If the pump is working, unhook all the lines from the exit port. Check for flow, add one line back at a time checking for flow. When the flow stops, find the reason, there is the problem...

Looks good as always

$17,838, probably a bargain but still a little pricey for me. I can probably come up with cheaper horsepower...

There is an eccentric that runs the fuel pump. Is yours tightened and good. If you take the valve cover off you should be able to see the eccentric pump the fuel pump using a remote starter. Make sure the car won't start or it will make an oily mess.

Jai, before we get you too turned around. Let's try to pinpoint the leak, then we can come up with a good solution....

I would bend them down flat. I would be surprised if they break. If they do you can add onto them with compression fittings, even make the junction in the tunnel so it doesn't show. You could put a hose on a square cut line. The carb system is running very low pressure, with a good hose clamp it will work fine. You cut flare a bulb in, even better, much over that is unnecessary

Besides if the booster is bad your brakes won't feel any different...

I do not know of a source for the original small diameter brake booster. Maybe someone will chime in with one...that maybe why the one on your car is still there and bad. You can use the other sizes if you can't source one but the bolt patterns may be different or you could ship it to a company that rebuilds brake boosters. Call or email first to make sure they can source the parts.