Patcon

that may be ok too...

It's a small, not my size. Couldn't own it if I can't wear it...

Reply, reply, reply I would go look at it but it's too far, seems like a good price for any sort of complete car that's not swiss cheese...pull it together a little and flip it if you need to

I have not heard good things about black dragon fenders..don't know on the hood unless it has the louvered vent holes

I am not sure Outdoorsman is still monitoring this. It would be nice to resolve the issue just to know what it was...

How much are you asking for the 70 240z? What is the vin number of the car? Thanks, Charles Vin was HLS30-02675 $2k and it's all yours or make an offer

I agree with Zed Head. While most of this 280 EFI is out of my expertise, if it won't run on ether then the issue is not fuel related. Ignition timing, spark or plugs provided compression is good. Is your valve adjustment good?

Better want them bad though...

The epoxy primer is very tough and sticks really well, plus if you stay with the same manufacturer you don't have compatibility issues. I wouldn't base coat clear the bottom of the car unless it's need to make your paint look correct. I would single stage the bottom and base/ clear what matters. When I jambed out my car, I sprayed the engine bay, interior, door jambs and inside of the hatch with single stage and will shoot base / clear on the exterior. Base clear costs more than single stage.

It was the "so long folks" part that was worrying me. As guess as a mod you can change all kinds of things...

blodi Car looks great and a quadcopter and an rc plane in the background even better...

Wheee! The primer under you car looks pretty good. I wouldn't remove it unless I suspected it hid issues. I wouldn't POR over it either. I would treat any exposed metal with a phosphating product. Scuff it up good and shoot epoxy primer over that. Then color it or undercoat it. No need to POR 15 what isn't corroded. I had a patch panel on a car that was only covered with epoxy primer and sat outside for 2 years and didn't rust

Is that Blue?????

What color was the car originally, green or the lighter color?

If I remember correctly, Zed head had a car that wouldn't run without the tachometer plugged in. Don't know if that is definitive though...

Steve, Is this the same BRE that was in Memphis? I made lots of detail pictures of that car...

Very cool. Love all the milling equipment. I would really have too many projects if I had tools like that...

I figured it was because you are so precise, just surprised it was black...

Steve, Is black the proper color for the bracket instead of yellow zinc?

I think I have 2 pairs of originals in the shop some where. I plan to use them on the yellow car if I ever get it finished. I also have a pair of 260z Euro's too some where but don't own a 260/280... They still look good dusty...

Bruce, How did you make the splines on the new adaptor?

Site, Euro taillights! love it

I didn't check the part number against the Datsun part list but the seller said they don't have vent holes, early style.... Thru 12- 1970 Left 78101- E4600 Right 78100- E4600 Up from 12-1970 Left 78101- E8300 Right 78100- E8800

Sell them to Dave Patten and let him use them as patterns..

I would probably fab my own for $1400 a pair. I could either buy a small brake of have someone brake them for me then add all the holes and captive nuts. Then I could use what ever gauge I wanted. The quarters are a little harder to make your own, but I can still find salvageable ones near me or even buy one from the west coast. So as much as I would like to have them here waiting on a project I have to take a pass. Now if Blue needs them, he put ship them home. They are series one quarter panels, no vent hole...