Patcon

I thought I would make a quick post. The 510 wasn't charging so I did a little research on Rockauto. The 240z uses the exact same part so I pirated one off one of the Z's and that fixed the charging issue. Plug N play

Well SteveJ came up today in the 260 and brought his little bag of magic tools. He was a big help. We narrowed down the headlight issue to a bad headlight relay. He had a replacement and all the vintage connections to make a plug n play fix. We still had an issue on the drivers side with glowing headlights we eliminated a backfeed issue and he narrowed the problem down to corrosion in the fuse box. So under his direction we pulled the fuse box and soaked the whole thing in a container of white vinegar for a couple of hours. After that a neutralization bath of water and baking soda. Blow it dry then use denatured alcohol to get all the water out. Blow it dry again. That brought the drivers side headlight leg up over 2 volts. Headlights are good now. We found 2 bad fuses in the fuse box, after that we had brakes lights and wipers. We got the horns working and I swapped a voltage regulator and got the alternator working. Then we had an erratic turn signal and I pulled the turn signal switch for cleaning... All in all a really productive day, I may have even forgotten something... Really big thanks to @SteveJ for coming up to help

I saw that car last night. It looked like a great solid car. I probably wouldn't even paint it. Buff it and get the mechanicals and interior right and drive it...

I agree! Not likeable...

He does at first. It's just some of us require more volume...

I feel your pain. Took this nail off between a 200# skidsteer wheel and the steel hub when I wasn't expecting that type of weight a month ago. Hit it at work 2 days ago between a clamp and the deck. That will make you say ugly things...

That is a good idea Zed has. Worth asking, I agree your mechanic should have a source for surfacing flywheels. It is a very basic machining operation...

I think you are rolling the dice on whether the 2+2 flywheel is still present. I would think if he gets into and doesn't have the right parts he could roll it off the lift by suspending the rear of the motor. Or you could order both parts from Rockauto and return what you don't need, I do this sometimes when I get into these situations. A little more freight but you are likely to have what you need either way...

Chatter could also be random oil contamination...

It cost to go fast and fast takes horsepower. That extra 100 HP probably tripled the cost of his engine! Only got him 0.55 seconds...

Zed is right, although they are rubber in the back, there are bearings there in the front I believe. Normally I just wash them and put a little grease back on them

The top is a steel hat with rubber inside of that. The studs on the steel hat bolt to the body of the car. I believe the steel washer the strut bolts to is encased in the rubber inside the hat

If they are prepped properly and scuffed well, add some "Bulldog" adhesion promoter. I think some reinforcement behind them is necessary to keep they from flexing to the road at speed...

The car has already run on Copart in a sealed bid. I saw it the other day. Hagerty evidently used that to help establish value. I don't know if they pad those numbers or not. I also don't know if it will run again or whether they will offer it to the highest sealed bid. With the car having a reasonably high fair market value I would expect it to bring 30-40% of that so if the car is a $25k car then $6-8k is possible. It will probably bring $4,500 some one will take a shot at fixing it, I would...

Sometimes you have to add them to the cart and order before you find out if they really have them or not...

That's a good looking car. Wish the airdam was painted though

Looks great!

@Diseazd ^^^previous posts

That sounds like a plan!

The triples are much more desirable than the downdrafts. If the rust repair has already been done then this car is further ahead. Also no concerns over flairs and fiberglassing in quarter panels and tail lights. Is more costly though...

I would suspect that any street cam you would consider will not be a problem. I can't imagine you will be spinning the engine at high enough rpm's for it to be an issue. The head work necessary to spin above 7,000 rpm's can get pretty intensive. You should rely on some of the folks here like Dizeased who has built multiple engines. Many engine builders haven't built as many as he has...

I thought so too. Not surprised it's already gone

That's the way I like to buy them! Inside dusty and no apparent rust. I suspect there will still be some little spots but pretty complete. Nice looking project... @Jake54 This would be a better project for you. Brakes and engine but no major rust issues. You can probably get it transported for $600-$700 to your door...maybe twice that. Depending on which Vancouver you are in...

That is correct. As you type the name in, a drop down list appears and it filters down the results as you type it out. You have to select the name out of the drop down. If you tag the wrong name by accident you have to erase all of the name and begin over to get the drop down back

Of course you are! Hate I can't make it. I have been looking forward to it after last year... If I'm lucky I will have a running Z next year if it's not too far