Patcon

I would think in Panama $4,500 would go a pretty good way. $5,000-$6000 would get you a really well done job here where I'm at...

2 gallons of filler is about 200% of what you should need for a car the size of a Z if it's reasonably straight, even if you sand half of it off on the floor. No primers in your list! Are they supplying primer but not finished paint? That doesn't make sense because they want you to supply paper and sealer... My biggest concern right from the start, is are they planning to fill all the rust holes with filler and then just spray base and color over that and call it done. I would look for a professional shop that doesn't ask you to supply all the materials. I wouldn't POR 15 under any finish paint for any reason, but that's me. Etching primers will work, epoxy primer are better....

You have prayers for Kathy...and wisdom for the doctors...

wheee! Do you have it in hand?

The floors are pretty rough. The rocker panels and inner rail structure that would be my biggest concern. Zedd Findings does have the best floor boards but they will not cover all the areas you will probably need to fix. They don't extend up the firewall very far. How are the front frame rails?

Front clip is cheap, it's the shipping that's gonna hurt... I bought this car years ago just for the fuel tank. Then they passed a county ordinance against unlicensed vehicles, which is rarely enforced, but they came by one day because a neighbor was abusing the situation. So I cut it in half, now it's car parts and the ordinance no longer applies...

This chunk weighs right at 200#'s. I bought 2 cheap scales to keep in the shop. This chunk weighs 389#'s with a little bit of misc weight, glassless hatch, qtr windows, etc. So a 76 stripped chassis is a little less than 589#'s whole. A 240z would probably be a little lighter but probably not a lot.

I googled the numbers checking Courtesy and some other sites. They came up either NLA or superceded. I agree sometimes Courtesy says they can get parts when they may not be able to get it. I would love to find a source for the earlier parts unless there is no real discrepancy...

Looks like 55476-N4300 is available. Everything else seems to come up superceded or NLA

He about ate it a quite a few times. You really can't tell from the video, at least on my computer, but the inside bank is pretty much all solid rock and boulders. He gets squirrely near it a few times and most of the outside turns don't have rails and if you go over you are about 60-100' up in the trees... Don't miss

Both circuits (front & back) work with or without the booster, they just require more effort. If one circuit fails the other circuit will stop the car but over a longer distance. Pulling the parking brake at speed is a fast way to end up spinning out of control

Sort of how I felt. I have 2 waiting on projects but for that kind of money I could probably be happy with less displacement...

So how does it operate?

I was browsing Ebay tonight and saw a V07 crank for $2,000 thankfully shipping was free...

^^^ Ditto, What Mark said...

Congrats. The car looks good. PM me if you need anything. I am local and have lots of sources

Like that! triples...

Cliff, Remember it doesn't get any more southern than South Carolina. The buckle on the belt and the first to start a fight...

the_tool_man I live in Spartanburg, I can probably help you if you need advise or parts. 280's are not my forte but I would be glad to help if you need it... Charles

Remove the existing factory deadener. I would treat the shell with Ospho or some other phosphating chemical, then epoxy prime. Kurby is right most systems don't approve of mixing and matching brand names. although I have done it without problems..

Yes, looks great!

Are the 240z and 280z setups really that different? I don't know, but would think they could be adapted since the ride heights are so similar..

I like the air cleaner and the fuel lines look good. You have quite a few lines running around the front of the valve cover. what are they? Sorry for thread jack... FWI I spent some time looking at 0-60 calculators but couldn't find one that gave good results; need to be able to input more detail but couldn't find one like that...

If you let the master cylinder run low on fluid near the end of the bleeding process it could cause this but rare...if the master cylinder burps when you bleed it you let the fluid get too low during bleeding

I thought about the thermostat housing too...