Patcon

I am not a big fan of applied fender flairs but if I was going to do it, I like this car better than anything else I've seen.

Automatic and it's already at $8,200 and there are no pictures of the problem rust areas and it's in Pennsylvania????

I have several different copy pipes beaten into different shapes. Most are 3/4" with a short piece of wood in the uncrushed end. The wood keeps from having to hold onto the 500dF copper pipe after it warms up. Eastwood sells some premade but they are very easy to DIY

I agree with Grannyknot, blast first then patch what you find. I have a good blaster here in Spartanburg. I can get you his number if you're interested.

When your car died did you check the fuel pressure?

If you need patch panels. I may have some. I am not that far away from you.

Looks good

4" is a lot a lot of room to do without. Will be interesting to see what the djwarner comes up with for dimensions off the Camaro

I would probably try to MIG them closed. Then use a die grinder with a cut off wheel to knock the welds down. then use a 90 degree die grinder with a 2" 36 grit rowlock to clean the last up. If you have a piece of 1/2" copper pipe, flatten one end so you can hold it up behind the hole. Weld against the copper backer but remember it will get hot fast. My second choice would be small metal patches and dress them the same way...

Chuck, Does your JVC keep the proper time? I have had 2 different models of JVC's in the last 18 months where the clock has a mind of it own. Can set it, won't keep time, sets then reverts back 20 minutes a little while later. Found a lot of reviews with the same issue. If you can't make it keep time then I don't know how good it can be. Charles

If it was leaking in the flat areas of the car, be sure and check the flat bottom areas inside the quarter panels.

^^^Agreed

You did good. The carbs and dash are worth 3 times what you paid for the car. Be careful if you work under the car that it can't roll. That would be bad. Blasting may reveal some more rots areas but at least you will have found it all. Looks good

I am still in the Ignition, ecu, fuel pump park. Jai, Do you have a fuel gauge under the hood currently? If so when it dies do you still have fuel pressure?

Looking for dimension on the LFX v-6 and came up with this off the LS1 forums http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1694935-2013-lfx-v6-camaro-standalone-harness-done.html evidently someone has already made a standalone harness for this engine.... Edit: there are lots of images of the LS-1 on Google that will give you dimensions. If your v-6 is the same or smaller it should fit. Oil pan could be a problem like Grannyknot had though...

The LS motors are a tight fit and require special headers and the steering shaft has to be reworked. Much bigger and it wouldn't fit. The V-6 might be wider than the LS motor or the exhaust or valve covers could be an issue or even motor height depending on the bore and stroke. Lots of variables there. I really think making it fit is easier than making it run.

First things first. Will it even fit? How wide is the V-6 at it's widest point? How long is it? How far from the rear of the engine to the center of the shifter? Then compare it to the Z engine bay and shifter location. If it won't fit the point is mute... It is a lot of work and the modern EFI can be difficult to separate from the rest of the cars harness. Many of these newer cars have BCU's. These Body Control Units have to be happy or the car may not start or run properly.

Remoto, That looks good. Are you doing a series of single tacks or short sections of weld?

wheee! What's wrong with those??? As a side note Chuck and Jeff both race these cars so they have high expectations. Their endorsement of the stock system is pretty high praise. I would like rear disc simply to do away with the drum adjustments. The rear calipers don't have to be very large on a light car as the fronts do a lot of the work. Chas has a good point about reestablishing the correct brake bias...

That's pretty cool... $3500 on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/THE-MIGHTY-DUKE-POWER-PULL-MD301FP-PORTABLE-FRAME-MACHINE-AUTOBODY-REPAIR-SYSTEM-/121422019895

If it were mine I would keep the AC. It can get pretty warm even in Virginia. also I am pulling for you to succeed also. One less Z crushed is always good. I like your enthusiasm. I would get it blasted and leave it bare for now unless it is going to be outside. If it's gonna be inside I would treat it with Eastwoods "After Blast". It will prevent flash rust and makes it easy to weld because the metal is clean and ready to go. Prime it after the patching is done.

I had a 100 amp welder and I hated it. I have used flux core wire but don't like it either. It is probably good if you're welding outside where the shield gas can blow away. I use a Hobart 210 with .025 and can weld and weld to my hearts delight and never hit the duty cycle limits.

My plan for panel alignment was to jamb out the doors, hatch, engine bay and under the hood. Then I will do most of the reassembly of the car, drivetrain, lines, harness, much of the interior. then final align all the panels, tape it up and spray the outside. This way I don't have to reassemble the car around fresh paint. Also the yellow I am shooting can look different if you don't lay the same amount down on each panel. So I am leery of painting it apart. My paint shop said they had one customer paint his vette all disassembled and when he put it together, every panel was a little different shade, had to repaint the whole car.

I like the wider sidewalls too. I think it just looks more period correct and they tend to ride better too

If you got bolts switched around when you did the rear end then you have 2 bolts somewhere that are too short. You aught to look it over really well...