Patcon

I believe the fuel tanks are different too. That is why the 76 tank is preferred when going EFI or L28ET in an older car, it is a direct swap...

I thought that might be MikeW's Z in the background, beautiful car. As for the cost of nix240z nla parts. for starters, they are NLA! So he has to re-engineer them from acceptable used parts. There is a lot of work and tools needed to come up with finished parts. Vacuum pumps, vacuum chambers, materials for molds and rubber for parts. When you're production volume is low the corresponding prices are gonna go up. He's not gonna get rich making low demand parts for 240z's but I am glad they are available!

That was really cool! Corroded the stud right out of the aluminum. If I heard him correctly, he used Alum...

So $86,000 with 10 days to go and the engine could bring $59,000. I can think of several cars I would like to have and still have change left over...

I would love to have a late 80's 911. I love the way they drive, but I think the parts would eat me alive. Maybe one day but maybe not...

Fairlady 432

Picture doesn't display just a big grey exclamation point

That's a GREAT looking 8 ptr! The gator makes it easier than sledding fresh meat out of the woods

the defrost lines can be repaired. There are videos on how to do it. 12.5 amps is a lot of current for the old harness wires

If I had a Gator my kids would use it to bring firewood up to the house and we would use it to get deer up from the deer stand. It's a little easier than a trailer behind the garden tractor...

I've been looking for a Gator, maybe one day....

Man's got a "Gator" now I'm truly jealous, 5 Z's maybe but a Gator! I love Green...

The only problem with the rally car, is that the snow would be halfway up the glass on Guy's car, at least until the plows get to you...

As to the OP question, I bought 2 engine stands (about $150), 6 casters (about $8 each), some plate from depot, nuts & bolts and had the trampoline frame from a customer. If you have a scrap metal yard where you can get used steel pieces (typically by the pound) that would be a good substitute. If you have to buy all the steel, it gets expensive quick. I have about $300 in mine and I can adjust it to use on other vehicles. My original estimate was over $600 for material alone. If I were gonna spend that much I would just buy the cheapest commercial unit available because of how long it takes to fab one from scratch. My time is worth more than the difference...also you will need to have a good way to cut steel to length; I have a Milwaukee porta-band for that.

Guys in the back look a lot younger

We got about 2-3 inches of sleet and freezing rain on Friday night then last night we got 2 more inches of snow on top of that. 20 minutes away from my house they got nothing. Everything shuts here when we get any accumulation. Our roads are not built for snow and nobody here knows how to drive in it so I just stay home. It normally melts in a couple of days. You are gonna have some pretty good totals if that keeps up. Build a fire, get a beer and stay warm. Be safe...

Guy how many inches of snow do you have so far?

NVZEE Thanks for that. I have a lot of the dime quarterly articles tagged in my favorites. Very good info there... It is amazing how hard some parts are to find. Stock wagon tail lights are $100-200 each. Some of the trim is almost unobtainable. Factory wagon gas cap - unobtainium The flip side is it makes you appreciate the support the Z has commercially. Some parts can be expensive but pretty much everything is available one way or another

You all are probably right, it is probably more but my back is limited to more or less 200#'s I can easily lift the front and I can lift the rear of a 240z although it is fairly heavy, but that is stripped. No harnesses, lines, suspension or panels. The car gets a lot heavier, quick when you start adding the other stuff back on Another way to do it would be to back into the weight 2300# - engine 600#? - tranny 120# - glass 120# - seats 120# - suspension & wheels 650#?? = 690# with the panels still on and lots of misc weight

Thanks, I hope putting the hours in will help him make good decisions. "Dime" parts are very hard to find on the East coast. If he crunches that hood we will have a hard time finding a replacement. It is our quality time, we have had a hard time relating, the car is a good connection point...

If I can find mine in the shop I can "mic" them for you. A template online would still be a good idea..

a stripped chassis is probably 300#-350#, I can pick up one end of the chassis by myself

I used large wheels on my rotisserie because I took the car to the media blaster on the rotisserie. We loaded the car and all on my car trailer so it was easy (i.e. cheaper) for him to blast. It also allows me to roll it outside into the yard if I need too.

I thought I would post this here, since I would only clutter up my own thread. Cody and I worked on his wagon today. We found a new hood with SteveJ's help as well as the radiator support I needed. The hood had some rust bubbles along the front so I knew it was rusted through. So I drilled out the edge of the hood and the places where the structure was welded. The rear edge of the hood where it is pinched over doesn't have any spot welds. I used a putty knife and open the pinch up a little to get it open enough to get the support structure out. I took the structure out of the hood. Then we used Eastwood rust dissolver to get the rust out of the inside of the hood. It worked pretty good, just kept brushing it on to keep it wet. The shiny metal is where the rust has already been removed. The process slows down when a lot of rust get into solution The structure of the hood had big globs of black stuff, sort of like silicone to bond it to the hood skin. I cut those with a putty knife This is what it looked like after we were done with "Rust Dissolver" Razor blade off the remainder of the black goo This is it with the structure laid back in it... I will take the structure to the media blaster to get him to strip it for us. We stripped the hood with aircraft stripper today. works great but don't get it on ya' Treated it with "After blast" and started dollying out the dents. Next we will prep the radiator support we picked up. Then I will reassemble the hood. If I decided to salvage a Z hood with rust bubbles on the front edge I would go at it the same way. The only way to get it clean and deal with the rust is to disassemble them.

Gav, You could always make them. The pattern is pretty simple. We might make a drawing template and just put it in the download section