Patcon

I was asking about price mainly for a point of reference, these cars are appreciating quickly right now and you could have easily paid close to $20k. Just trying to keep tabs on what cars are out there, condition and price... What fuel lines are you looking for again?

Thanks Steve, That is great! I will get in touch with him. I was hopeful someone on here had a source.

Thanks Meakin

That's a nice looking car. What were they asking for it? I would just rebuild the mechanical pump, there is a thread here on how to do it and source pumps. The mechanical pump is robust and simple. All of your upgrade ideas seem inline with a car in this good of shape. Just remember to keep all the old bits and pieces, these cars are beginning to appreciate rapidly and a purists will want to be able to return it to stock form if you ever decide to sell...

You could take it to a Z shop if you have one, but it looks like Murray, IA has a population of about 1000 people and is located somewhere just the other side of "you can't get there from here" So with that in mind you probably know everyone in town and have 1 maybe 2 body shops. Have someone put it on a frame rack for you. There is a diagram floating around here somewhere that has the factory dimension in MM's of the chassis (maybe someone will post it up for me). Have them setup up, clamp it down and check it real quick. You could also follow Zed's logic and measure the free length of each rear strut with the rear end off the ground. Measure from the bottom of one strut to the inside of the strut tower on each side. They should match pretty close.

Zed replied while I was typing. My first concern wouldn't been paint cracks from the frame rack. First I would want the chassis as straight as I could make it. Secondly most paints are flexible enough and even filler is usually flexible enough to absorb the changes in chassis shape from the frame rack. Of the 40 or so cars I have seen run over the frame rack, I don't I have ever seen the paint crack on one when pulled. Even seriously caved fenders... the bigger issue would be marks from the hold down jaws and puller clamps...

I believe Zed is suggesting that the rear insulators are mismatched. If you had one off a 280z and one off a 240z it would make the rear sit funny. I would be surprised if the chassis were twisted that much. The amounts it would take to make a car sit out of level 1"-1 1/2" in the width of the car are huge. I would think if the chassis were that bad there would be panel alignment problems, broken glass and doors that were hard to operate. FWIW I rebuild salvage cars so I have seen and pulled multiple wrecked cars. Someone made the suggestion to have a frame shop look at it. I think that is an excellent idea! It would be relatively cheap to have it looked at, plus if you know it has been in an accident you would know if its been repaired properly. A poorly repaired car can "crab" and wear tires badly along with other more serious things...

You made a good patch on the door. Did you use a dolly and hammer to roll the seam? Also on repairs like that you can take some Eastwood frame rail sealer and shoot it down in the inside of the door. It is very thin and will run down into that seal to help prevent rust and stop the rust in the remainder of the seam from spreading.

I need some help sourcing a radiator support...I have emailed with Dave Patten from Futofab, I have emailed Rod with Rods Datsun Parts. I will have to call Courtesy but am not hopeful there. The one we have was stretched badly in a collision, I don't think I have the skills to salvage it. Anyone have a source for a 510 radiator support? TIA

Front frame rails and somewhere under the rear that's gonna be close to level. You can use pieces of plywood under the jackstands to shim the car close to level. Once the car is off the suspension you can measure the frame hard points to the floor. On the deer note, I have seen several that were worth it but none I could get the scope on. Nice deer but small by Iowa standards...

The only way I can imagine is drill down around it until it's loose enough to get the piece out. Easy outs are hardened which makes working around them difficult.

Here in the South that person might shoot back...

Did you torque the suspension sitting on the ground or up in the air? Did you get all the spring in the correct location? You can check the car by putting the car up level on 4 jack stands. Measure the car to the floor at each corner to multiple places, the wheel arch the suspension mounts the frame rails, the rocker panels. If the frame is tweaked badly it will show up. Make sure none of the suspension arms are bent... By the way nice deer...

Picking up a new head won't be a cheap option. He has a turbo car and those heads trade at a premium and then you would have to make sure all the hydraulic adjusters are good. I would remove the intake and exhaust, if there is enough to grab acetone/ ATF for a couple of days, hit the end with a hammer and try to vise grip it out. If it wont come out, remove the head and drill it out or take it to a machine shop for removal.

Welding will help but the larger thread size is better. I believe my puller is 1" threaded rod...

Did you tear the end off the threaded rod?

I would think the option would have been ordered by the dealer the way cars are down now and the dealer could have also ordered a loose part for replacement too.

Galvanic corrosion can make it really difficult to get studs out after 35 years. You will still have to pull everything off to even get a grip on it....

Applied model says "OP 4speed" is that how other optional equipment is called out on the parts diagrams?

Yes, you will probably need to get another washer and a thrust bearing. Once they start moving they pull on out, getting them moving can be a problem especially if you flared one end. Edit: Looks good though. Nice to have those kind of facilities at hand...

If you could do a property tax search. The property owner would probably give the car to someone who would haul it off. The car is a parts car any way so title isn't a big issue.

Glad it was an easy fix! Enjoy the cocktails...

I am, but a little too far away...

Are you sure there is not a lot of debris in the tank?

So you can blow air into the outlet and hear it coming into the tank? You can blow air into the filler neck and fuel comes out or you are blowing air into the return line and fuel comes out? Once fuel flows out it wont continue to come out even with a section of fuel line acting as a siphon? Is the filler cap on or off when fuel won't flow out?