Patcon

I never had any problems with squealing brakes, maybe once, so I guess I am not the definitive test case. I haven't used it on a "nothing stops the squeal" set of brakes...

I have used the CRC stuff too, along with a product called "Pig Squeal" or something like that.

What seats are in your Alfa?

Our Datsun 510 has a glass window on the float bowl. How is the glass filter bowl any more of a hazard than a plastic filter? I would think the glass is thicker and would take a harder strike than a plastic filter. What am I missing?

I would take a factory five car over any original cobra barring the value issue. Newer, better engineering and don't have to worry about miles or insurance on your million dollar car. I would think the Super bird is worth more like $300k or so the last time I looked.

I may have that panel on a later s30 chassis. I would expect them to all be the same. As for replacing the entire panel, that's going to be a lot of work. There are multiple layers at the rear of the transmission tunnel that would have to be separated and multiple layers out near the wheel wells also. If you separate all of those to get the panel out you are going to have to take measures to keep the car straight. If it were mine I would never consider dealing with the 200 or so spot welds to fix the speaker holes. You could either get some one to make you some patch panels with the correct beading or you could get a factory panel and cut your own patches out of it. In the end it's almost all covered anyway...

Thanks

I would love to spend some time on 66. Looks like fun. Thanks for sharing.

Very nice...

That would be very interesting...

Good eye Jim

I was thinking you might use a self tapper then back it out and JB weld it and replace the self tapper. Sort of double it up...

One thing to remember when you blast is you are removing material and roughing the surface. Because of that I typically protect mating surfaces with blue tape.

When is my new head gonna be ready?

Mart, You live in a pretty area it seems and a much denser population than where some of the other members are. The map of your area, shows major roads every few kilometers or so, but where JIm is in Calgary, once you are outside of the city you can end up in "no mans land" pretty quick with the next major road a 100 miles or more away and no passenger rail to hop on to get home. While I appreciate a totally stock vehicle, I have no problems switching to a high volume domestic part for our cars. The conversion is easily reversible and makes long distance travel easier.

John, What would you recommend as a step up from stock?

I wonder if he can really get $6000 for it with rust issues and a v-8 conversion...

Lurch Thanks for the reply. I understand that all horsepower is not the same and even between Dynos numbers very greatly but they do give a starting point to base observations on. I am not surprised as to expected costs. There was a tremendous amount of work put into the engine and transmission. $4000... ouch...

I run 2 regulators. I have a Sharpes dryair system where I regulate down to about 50-60 psi and then I have a small inline gauge at the gun and regulate that down to where it sprays the way I want. Nix's question referring to tip size is important too. Primers don't flow well through smaller tips. The P sheets will also make tip suggestions for their products. FWIW I would think 20 psi is too low...you need to regulate right at the gun because there is pressure loss in the hose...

Cliff, Bruce, I was laughing out loud. Had to read all of that to Shelley. Makes me look forward to Toronto... C

Nice car, congratulations on finding a buyer.

Site's pictures are good. You aught to be able to hold the trigger for a second to a second and a half and get the pattern on the far right. I have a special cap that I can screw on the front of the gun that tests the pressure at the cap. You really don't need it. I run 25-30 psi, if I remember right, into the gun to get the atomization I like. I have never really had to over thin any paints I use. Most P sheets will state you can reduce an additional 10%. Do you have the P sheets for your products? I have a 3 ring binder in my shop with P sheets for all the products I use. If I need to, I make notes on those sheets for pressures or additional thinner desired. If you add more pressure the only issue it is likely to cause is using some additional material. I base all my pressures off of how it lays down. I adjust my fan to 10-12" wide for most work, adjust the flow until I get a decent pattern like the pictures and adjust my pressure so it atomizes well. I am using DeVilbiss finishline guns for most things...

Siteunseen, Are you sure you fall in the "moderate" category??? I have seen your deck building...

John, I am in Spartanburg. If you find you need something drop me a PM and I probably have it. Welcome aboard... Charles

I searched on car-part.com, 2 within 30 miles of 33601 zip. And many more further out. If the local ones aren't good find someone who will ship. A used head is better than an unknown "rebuild" head from someone with questionable quality. Didn't find any on Craigslist within a 1000 miles of you...