Patcon

Be careful if you try to drive them out. They are easily mushroomed. That is why pulling is a good method for removing them.

Steve, Did you use this part on your car? Did you have any issues with it?

I believe they all come off the same set of dies...I have ordered directly from Tabco with no problems.

New spindle pin puller design... look up his new content for his thread

Get JeffG to ship you his new toy so you can do some quality control testing for him.

Dennis, I have never driven in any of the large California cities but I have driven in Chicago, Seattle, Portland, Dallas and many of the larger southern cities, if I never had to drive through Atlanta again that would be ok. They drive really fast, which I'm ok with, but they tend to be 12" off your back bumper when your doing 20 over already...

Dave is both, Zs-ondabrain is his username. He is very knowledgeable and makes headlight harness and parking light harness upgrades that help with brightness.

Well if the car isn't full of fuel the rear of the car probably only weighs 700 pounds or so, just guessing. I can't imagine that is enough to bend a roughly 1" pipe but maybe...it is strange

Well compared to the cost...! The last time I heard about one of the heads the cost was like $25,000 or so IIRC...

Good find!

I don't think the car is heavy enough to bend those even if you lifted by them. Is it possible the car went off road and hit something? Are there any other marks on the bottom of the control arms? The tank doesn't look good, might leak like a sieve after the rust is removed. The fuel sender could be cleaned with some rust dissolver but would probably need to be disassembled first.

Jonathon, I wouldn't daily drive an S30 in Atlanta either. A tank would be my preferred choice...

Z's are not as safe as newer cars but much of whether you are at real risk is more about where you drive and how fast you drive. Are you in a rural area or a large city? Do you do a lot of high speed driving or mainly neighbor hood driving? I rebuild salvage cars and have seen many many modern cars that were fatal wrecks and dead is dead. The biggest factors in fatal wrecks is speed and whether you get hit from the side or not. The 2+2 car may have the reinforced doors, I don't know when they started that and it may have the newer door locks which were all done for safety as well as the larger bumpers. In the end I would put any of my kids in a classic Datsun. My 15 year old son just bought his first car a 72 510 wagon. We don't live in a hugely urban area and it is sort of like riding a motorcycle you have to drive very defensively.

A big harbor freight wrench would probably work fine. I wouldn't even bother to powder coat them to keep costs down. Keep them oiled and they will store just fine. I have a similar design that I bought many years ago that I have yet to break. It uses a piece of very large all thread but the design is about the same.

Jeff, How are you attaching to the pin? Boring and threading the end of the rod opposite the bolt and bearing end?

Evidently the car seems to like the large venturi size. Maybe because it breathes better with the extra valve area, it doesn't suffer with the over carburation the standard L6 heads seem to have. At first I was gonna respond to the "throttle body" portion of your question. It is my understanding throttle bodies don't have as big of an issue with bore size because the fuel is at a higher pressure and atomizes even at lower rpms. Also was it really necessary to chop a huge hole in the hood? I hope that's a fiberglass hood they cut up. "No officer, I don't know why you stopped me..." ...but officer, I couldn't have been speeding! My speedometer never left zero."

Cool. Take the crank, intake and anything else you want and scrap the rest. That should help pay for the crank. Unless you actually want a diesel maxima?

I right click on the dot at the beginning of the thread title and open in a new tab. That takes me to the first unread response in a thread. I open 8 threads or so at once and start reading while the later ones load.

The clutch was probably slipping. Next time go to 1st gear before you start up the driveway. Even if the clutch slips some in second on that particular driveway you can probably get some more mileage out of it. Just don't make it work that hard.

I just looked through 993 ads on ebay for flexplates. I found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Flexplate-PIONEER-FRA-459-fits-79-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/361295205463?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item541edf5457:g:1YMAAOSwgQ9Vk60k&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Pickup-Flex-Plate-1973-/331654020826?hash=item4d381ebeda:g:eOsAAOSw9r1V9bNt&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Flexplate-PIONEER-FRA-459-fits-79-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/371405351307?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item56797be98b:g:H8wAAOSwjVVVwhL4&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Flexplate-PIONEER-FRA-459-fits-79-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/271943658488?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item3f511aebf8:g:YTIAAOSwPcVVuWGd&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Flexplate-PIONEER-FRA-459-fits-79-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/371407663908?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item56799f3324:g:puMAAOSwDNdVxdpF&vxp=mtr Will any of them work? Also I found this very nice separating plate. I believe it will work but not positive... http://www.ebay.com/itm/79-83-DATSUN-280ZX-ENGINE-TO-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-PLATE-FLEXPLATE-COVER-/221686274426?hash=item339d88197a:g:9H4AAOSwxYxUzqnJ&vxp=mtr

Very good. I was going to say if they aren't anodized and sealed with something they will corrode...

Site, I believe he needs a flexplate that takes the place of the flywheel on an automatic car...I am not sure he needs the transmission to engine separating plate

Careless Looks perfect! Like a museum piece. Fabulous work

moelk I don't care for the blue either. How did you remove the anodization? Did you coat the clear aluminum with something?

Is the cold starting issue because the cold start valve is disconnected?