Patcon

Thanks

The problem is I'm getting old and can't even remember what I had subscribed to. Bushing threads, motor threads, I can't even remember them all of them...

CO is right, moving the spindle may make things harder for you. If it is set properly then it is not overly important to correct right now. When you reclock the spindle the timing will have to be totally reset of the engine won't start. Look in the FSM under setting timing. The light is hooked to spark plug one and flashes when it fires. Shine the flashing light on the end of the crankshaft. The strobe effect will show when the spark plug fires relative to the timing marks. Set per the manuals instructions.

I am trying to find my thread subscriptions so I can look at some older threads that had good info in them. On my personal profile, I assume my subscribed threads are under "content I follow" but when I go there, there are almost no subscribed threads. Did I lose all my subscriptions when the website moved over to the new format? That would really suck as I had 30-40 really cool threads I had saved over the years...

Andreas, Thanks for that. It sounds great. What is your engine setup?

Sometimes the sway bar is in the way and has to be lowered. It is easier with two people. when you lower the oil pump, oil is gonna want to drip every where. You will need a catch pan. The spindle rotates as it disengages, so you have to lower it to disengage and rotate it some then push it up to reengage, until it is in the correct position like Lumens posted in #19. Once it is clocked correctly reinstall the oil pump bolts. The you will have to reset the ignition timing.

Drop the oil pump and re-clock the spindle.

Video ^^^^ Let's hear it...

Thanks Philip. I have a lead on a parts car. If we don't pick that up I will definitely be in touch.

I agree with both ^^^^^ Tire issues would be my first check on the vibration at speed. Run the old gas out and get good fresh high octane gas in and see if the running improves Exhaust fumes are almost always bad gaskets or rust holes in the rear of the car. Taillight gaskets / hatch / and vent hose gaskets... Horsepower comes later when everything else is right!

Then why did you buy a vintage air??? You could have just source the dealer ac system off of Ebay...

That's a very interesting solution. Thanks, Jim We will now return you to your regularly scheduled programming...

Jim, before we return to our regularly scheduled programming, can you post a picture of your gauges? I don't totally understand...

Love it!! I would do that all day long. Bookmarked...

Wasn't California recently considering moving the date up to something like 1979 for smog? Sorry for the "thread jack"...

Have you checked the timing? The popping or dieseling when cutting it off could be timing related...

Antifreeze has antirust properties. That is why it is important to not run straight water.

Congratulations. There was a lot of rust under the car.

I have ordered several things out of Australia. It is normally not a problem if you are prepared for the freight charges. You gotta pay to play...

Mitchell If there is a next time you can use mine. I might even deliver it,,,

I have found carriers are much more careful with packages that are insured. If you ship something and want it taken care of, insure it...

That picture was perfect Cliff

I like the muffler too. What is it?

What are you valve clearances? Could you have lost some adjustment and not be getting good valve sealing? I would think it would be noisy with less lash...I would redegree the cam and see if it meets spec. Also Zed may be onto something with the ignition route. If it won't start with ether I almost always rule out fuel. also your AFR was reading fine, so unless it is bad too?? That would also rule out fuel. Can you verify your afr is reading correctly somehow? Swap to another race car or one of your cars?

I don't know. Just send them an email and ask...