Patcon

I should have know the guy with the really cool carpet clips would have the exact info!!

If there is not a lot of excess movement like the bushing is shot then some would say "no"

I can't tell on the bushing. It looks fine in the picture to me but maybe I am missing something. As for blasting the control arm. Blast them and paint them black or powder coat them black.

I agree totally about not wanting unnecessary dirt and rust inside the system. It just shortens the life expectancy.

Should be "HLS30-02148" Look above the brake booster on the firewall if it is left hand drive. Engraved into the firewall is the VIN number that can be stenciled. Yeah, What "quick draw" said ^^^ Those Texans are fast on the draw...

How did you go about cleaning them up? If I am looking at the picture right the cylinder bore looks pitted.

Front carb was dry? The back carb had fuel? How did you check the lines for blockage? Which lines did you check?

He was a young man. Rest in peace...

Fabulous. congratulations

Take your time and make small welds. The inspection doors are thin and they will "oil can" badly if you feed too much heat into them.

Yeah! Toronto. I love it.

I would recommend you do that before you get much further

Very nice. Well done. Hope your tuning goes well.

Jai Did you check the fuel pressure gauge right after it died? C

I had a Duster as my first high school car. Man they are ugly, slant six, indestructible no matter how hard I tried. Saved for 2 1/2 years to buy my 1st car, a 240z...

It's nice to have on loooooong trips, like Toronto 2016. I just added it to my daughters BMW Z3 for trips back and forth to college...

I had an add on system on my 240z when I was in college about 25 years ago. It helped reduce but not eliminate tickets. There were 2 magnets added on the driveshaft 180 degrees from each other. They were epoxied and wrapped with tape. There was a sensor close by that picked up the magnets rotation like a modern ignition does. When you got to the desired speed you hit the "set" button on the control switch. The under hood cruise control module would then modulate the throttle linkage to maintain the driveshaft speed per the magnet pick up. The brake and clutch had switches that disengaged the system when pressed to prevent runaway acceleration. Worked good at the time but the control was not very elegant. The beaded chains gave adjustment so slack could be removed. The controls looked like this, about 2-3 inches long and an 1" across. Look for this unit inside the car. Trace it from the cruise control module...

What is your power plant? I see the intercooler behind the grill. It is always interesting to look at the list ahead of you. Many of which are much newer and much higher horsepower cars.

Captain, I believe cruise control is a good call. The chain looks like is could attach to the throttle linkage to control speed. Jake, Look around the interior for a small add on cruise control switch. Possible under the dash, on the stalks or under the seat near the center console.

What is interesting is the bearing journal has no discoloring at all. I wonder if the coloring happened before machining. Also I have seen much worse bearing shells. If the crank is true and not under sized have it magnafluxed and move on...

Cliff, When you say bulging to what are you referring? I don't see any distortion. Can you point it out. C

I agree with Zed go to the manufacturers websites. Many times they will have info for how much torque their clutches will hold. That will let you rank them. Also try to find reviews online but take them with a grain of salt.

Art takes time... lots of time...

Thanks, Missed the link... A little pricey but a great concept. I would probably fab my own because I can, but I love the simplicity and the bullet proof nature of the design.

Takayuki Where did your mount come from? Did you make it or purchase it?