Patcon

Take the interior panel off the hatch. The push button just has a metal tab that sticks out to one side inside the hatch. When it is unlocked it hangs out over a release lever, when you push it down it pops the hatch. When it's locked the lock is rotated 90d so it is no longer over the release lever. Reach up in the hatch from the inside and find the release lever. Trip it by hand. A small mirror and a light might be good too... I hope that makes sense...

These cars will take hot weather. I have run them hard in the deep south of the US in 90-100dF temps. I would think if she doesn't like high temps there is another issue somewhere...

I would not do what he did. Have you contacted vintage air about recommended installs for a 240Z? Look at "240z air conditioning" and "240z AC" for what the "stock" evaporator box looked like

Let me get this straight, your opinion on whether a product is good or possibly the best is whether the cheapest parts suppliers in your area carry it???? They carry what is cheap because people want things a cheap as they can get them. That doesn't mean there isn't a better product out there. It's hard to sell a more expensive product if people don't see the value... but many times you get what you pay for... No offense intended.

Love the sound but have to view them sideways...

Leave the heater core alone! If you ever start running hot you can use it to keep from destroying the head. Drill the holes it's what all the older 240z's with AC have. You will have to drill a drain hole for the evaporator anyway, what is a couple more. Also there are some threads from another forum that suggest it is a bad idea to delete the heater hoses or bypass them. I already knew you had an AC system... If you want the factory pod you will have to look for a factory ac system on Ebay. I would think you vintage air system would come with some kind of controls... I don't see how you can control the add-on AC from the factory controls. If it's possible it would be a lot of work!!! With the mechanical help you have been able to get so far I would rule it out...

Looks great Bart! C

Blue, Can you elaborate or add pictures so I can ID the idiosyncrasies of these parts. I may have some of this...

On the 240z's I have worked on that had air, the refrigerant lines were brought through the firewall down low on the passenger side. You just have to drill extra holes. The ones with the dealer added air have a small pod screwed to the drivers side of the center console with a switch that started the compressor and a knob that controlled temperature. Most of them use the existing ductwork to provide the air so the existing heater blower moves the air through the evaporator to cool it. I would not delete the heater even where you live...

No problem. I am glad for him to have the business.

The closest I appear to have is 77,000 or so. Have you considered milling the block and having it re-engraved with the correct numbers. You can't represent it as the original block but you can call it a remanufactured block at least here you can. You would need to match the font. I once saw a early 50's block for a vw that had no numbers on it and that would be the way to handle a block like that. Also do you have the engine bay tag that has the motor number on it. What number do you need? Maybe, by some great odds, one of us has it...

Wow!!! It sure is lonely where you work....

I like Charlie too and have had several dealings with him. We are lucky to have people like him that help keep these cars on the road...

Good looking car. Hope the sale goes well. Are the front turn signals stock for Australia?

Blue, You are looking for an L24 block with a stamp of less than 6000, correct?

That concave area can be hard to get really smooth with a weld joint there. Not saying this is the case but what looks like a lot of filler can just be a really wide thin layer. I am ok with thin layers. If it starts getting thick, that is where the problems come in. If you have ever seen shows cars get skimmed and blocked they look like they haves tons of filler but it is really pretty thin but it makes the panels soooo straight...

I will try to look at it over the weekend. C

From the ARP website FAQ: Are ARP bolts and studs re-usable? Yes. As long as the fasteners have been installed and torqued correctly, and show no visible signs of damage, they can be re-used. If they show any signs of thread galling or corrosion, they should be replaced. In the case of rod bolts, if any of them have taken a permanent set and have stretched by .001” or longer, you should replace them immediately. See page 29 in the catalog for more detailed information on this critical measurement

Blue Is a frequent flier. He will check that in his luggage and just use his "FF miles". Using the proper Doug McKenzie accent: " Be careful you don't herniate yourself with that package , ya hoser..."

I like those yellow Philips screws! They look like they did a pretty job on the repair though.

How perfect does it need to be? I have a 76 parts car here at the house. I could look and see if the valance is good. I am not that far away...

"Meier Oberflächenbehandlung Rafz" Easy for you to say... Looks great. Almost over the hump. Once the body is done it all downhill from there...

I agree with chuck on his time estimate. I am still trying to see the problem with you floors. Also which frame rails are ruined by jacking in the wrong place? I would like to see pictures of that. You would be surprised what can be fixed with the right tools. As for the speaker holes in the tool lockers, I would weld in patches there and move on. Dress them down from both sides. Smear a little fiber glass over the rough areas, sand smooth and roll on. No one will ever know the difference.

Another thought is pedal height. The hard pedal makes me think the pressure is getting trapped and not releasing. Make sure the pedal is adjusted properly.

That is why some people shouldn't be allowed to weld!!! or go to Home Depot either...