Patcon

Link to the vinyl source?

https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/fixing-vintage-air-conditioner/

https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/how-ac-works-in-your-vintage-car/

Thanks, I do have one of those

I have two ½ impacts, one battery and one corded, even they need the occasional rest when running Lok's. We usually start them with a hammer. Some jobs we'll run 100-200 in the drop sills. Earmuffs are nice...

So best I can tell. The AC evaporator connects like this. There must be a piece of metal here that helps connect these two to the factory mounting point Here are some pics of the stock evaporator BTW this thing is fragile as egg shells! How exactly does this little valve work and will it work with 134a? I was thinking I would run a rotary pump under the hood and use the "stock" AC evaporator. I'm not interested in going vintage air at this point

No reason to do 3 rows. You could probably do 2 rows at 16" O.C. and be fine Here it is; 24" O.C. https://www.diyhomecenter.com/media/pdf/fastenmaster-flatlok.pdf

At one point my jobber told me to start at 1500 grit. I was starting at 1000 or 1200 and couldn't get all the scratches out. That was also when he told me to cut and buff within 3 days of clear

The flatloks will pull it up. Just make sure you have it straight before you gang it up. It won't want to change shape after that

Got it. And your always thinking about cutting through while trying to get rid of them! 😵‍💫

What do you mean by spider webs? Light scratching, sanding marks?

No idea, but the flywheel looks much better!

Yes, we don't put jack in until after. Typically we'd get a ply to the top and use big cabinet clamps to hold it. Maybe run a couple of GRKs down from the top. Then add the second ply. Jacks get added later and cut a hair long so they have to be driven end for a nice snug fit. Too snug and you will split them drving them in Another way to do this is add two blocks one on each end on the kings about waste high or a little higher. Set both plies there and gang them up. Then lift one end and add a block. Then the other. Seesaw it up near the top then use cabinet clamps or ratchet straps to top it out. Then add the jacks.

But there's good marketing and bad marketing. If I couldn't buy one without it, the first thing I'd do is fill it and paint it!!

A little more tinkering So I used an old hotel key to help get the clips on Thanks @Namerow It also helps to lift the scupper from the underside in order to get the clips on Here are the pin clips that come with the badges from Resurrected Classics I applied a tiny bit of urethane sealant at each post too. Then I covered them with towels and added some weight overnight So here's a question, I have the upper outer hatch seal. It has a bulb on it. But the lower side seals are squarish. Is this correct?

So the other day Cody came over and we reassembled his wiper mechanism Now I just have 3 more to do...

Now I may be missing something but it appears the sections of the document are collapsed, and I can't seem to be able to expand them...

Another thing I like about not using the Turbo dizzy is the crank timing should be more accurate than timing in the dizzy because of high speed flutter and the inherent slop in the dizzy drive system

You need to specify 2024, don't leave him the out 😉

I'm not sure fully sequential is beneficial either. It does place less load on ignition components though. I would probably get a crank trigger and run wasted spark and move on. I would probably only visit fully sequential if I had a problem doing that. Some of the vendors might be able to give you more experienced feedback if you reach out to them. They have a vested interest in your success...

Yeah, I was wondering if you could use a degree wheel instead of a turbo dizzy. I would expect it to cost $350 or so. $1000 seems high to me but if you've got the only one, then it's supply and demand...

Great pictures of the quarter glass. I need to do those soon!

Lack of oil could definitely do that!

How did you destroy it? These engines are normally pretty robust...

I think the other face is wider and more round versus the thin edge that touches currently