Patcon

I started an install thread for the leather interior to separate it from the earlier part here.

So I am going to start a leather interior trim thread. I bought the pieces from Interior Innovations and thought it might be helpful to document how I went about the install So I've been procrastinating on this a little bit. The factory vinyl laps up onto the luggage panel a little bit, I believe. I thought that would be hard to do with the leather thickness. Also it really needed to be shifted as far forward as possible to line up well with the parking brake and get under the fire wall mat. There was one set of marks for the seat rib. I will cut these nice and close later I put the original console in the car. It won't be the one I use long term but it shows whats covered up Outline it with sharpie I needed to layout the hole for the parking brake. It didn't come pre-cut. So I laid the old one over the new one, snap to snap, and marked it out with a soap stone I'm thinking this will all cover up very nicely when done. The thick hem on the firewall leather will help conceal everything. So I set the tunnel piece all the way to the fire wall but no extra It does lap over some of the center console brackets. So it will probably have to be trimmed there when I get to console install I didn't like this part. Taking the knife to your leather that came half way around the world!! I was going to trace some of the areas with the sewing machine to prevent the diamond stitching from raveling in the areas that I have to cut but I opted for a little super glue on each end instead I sprayed the rear top of the tunnel with Dan Tack. I also sprayed the corresponding area on the leather. I let it tack down pretty good. It sticks like mad! I tried to adjust it behind that brake leather but it was just tearing the jute all up with it. If I had not let it tack so much it would probably be a little more adjustable.

Update on the pieces I ordered off Ebay. So what I received are two pieces of rubber maybe a 1/4" thick. They are not very compressible. I don't think I will be using them. I am planning on getting some reproductions from 240zrubber

So I will update this thread so it's all here too. I did some plating a few weeks ago and it blistered badly. I'm not sure why. I could have been my plating tank was heating properly or too much brightener. In any event, I stripped it all down in citric acid and reprepped them for plating. This time instead of using tape to protect the chromed shafts, I used heat shrink. They did ok this time but some of it came out really pink. I left them in my blue chromate a little longer and only left them in the yellow for about 20 seconds. I was using a heat gun to dry and cure them. The last one I let air dry to see if the heat was causing the blushing. I believe the one on the bottom is the one I allowed to air dry The one on the far right is the air dry one. I do believe it changed when I allowed it to air dry but I was changing my chromate time too so it's hard to know the cause definitively. One point is, if you use heat shrink or even tape, it needs to be cut off ASAP. I had one that had some liquid still in it and it corroded the fresh plating where it leaked out later. Since all of this is concealed in the cowl, I'm not going to worry about it.

Cody also went and vapor honed his carbs

Plated the end of the cable housing A lot of this batch of plating came out really red. I'm not sure why

Did those contacts come that clean with just the contact cleaner spray??

A shrinking disc works really good on high spots. Then dolly the lows up

A shaker siphon is a better idea!

Do you do all of the inside hood stripping with a heat gun?

Yup, assembled and driving. Probably not "finished" but more enjoyable!

At the height of the market, I think it would have done close to double that. That might be a good guess these days but it wouldn't surprise me if it exceeded that. One owner, low number, low mileage, all original, documentation. A very unique rare car. Probably one of a handful that are in this type of survivor condition

You could take the fan belt off. It can run for a minute or so without any damage. That will make it easier to hear

I would take off the valve cover and pour some oil or put some prelube on the second cylinder valves. Set the valve cover on and start it up. If it taps, repeat on cylinder 3. If i make it go away, I would look at oil delivery. External spray bar or through cam? Possibly replace the oil pump or go to the turbo pump. Heavier oil might help overall but will delay oil delivery when cold.

Public Service Announcement

Most vehicles and equipment in the US have had metric fasteners for a long time. To change to metric would be quite expensive for the US. We have a very large road system and it would be complicated for the construction industry too. Probably not the best use of money right now since we already have a ton of debt

For 2k it would have a new home!!

I bet they were really good with playdoh in middle school!!

I wonder what it's shielding from?

@Captain Obvious This sounds like a metallurgical question to me

I would remove it. The external filter will take care of that. It's finer and more importantly accessible! The sealants I have used might even stop up the little line

And you as well!

Beautiful work as always!

One of the aspects for coating the tank are the complexities of the inside of the EFI tank. Inside the tall tank baffle is a small cylinder with a brass screen. It also has that thin line coming up towards the top of the tank. I think John is thinking of coating the inside of the two halves of the tank with a brush to deal with all the complexities that probably won't coat all the way by sloshing sealant around. That means what ever you use needs to adhere to the cured coating once the halves are rewelded and the belt area needs to be sealed as the last step.

Post a picture of down in the well where the little tube connects and the venturi