Patcon

That's too bad. I hate to see that. Cars like that are quickly becoming worth saving especially with the recent rise in prices.

It also looks like the brake booster is deleted. Does that cause an issue with making brake pressure? Did you change the master cylinder to accommodate deleting the booster?

Thanks

Site, Just remember it is probably a good idea to wear a respirator or at least a dust mask. It will make it hotter but it saves your lungs. The glass is not good for breathing or the stuff coming off the aluminum. You don't really think you are breathing in that much until you blow your nose.

Chickenman, How do you set the phasing? And what exactly do you mean by phasing? I don't really understand what you did. Glad you made progress though.

What media are you using?

Looks good John. all welded in it looks like...

If the idle goes up with the booster unhooked I would suspect it is leaking. I agree drive it with the booster unhooked. BE CAREFULL you will still have brakes but no power assist.

They make some beautiful stuff. I would like to have a choice on the anodizing color though...

Steve, I bought a plate from Summit Racing that allows cc'ing chambers. It's a thick piece of plexiglass that you place on the head with grease as a seal. Then you use the burret or a thin graduated cylinder to fill the volume. Works really well and has repeatable results. I used the thin graduated cylinder since it doesn't need a stand.

CDL1542 Those are good looking bars The thing I like about the TEP front bar is the triangulation. It is a shame they don't fit properly and the customer service is non existent. If I do this at some point I will build my own.

What was the cost?

Those dimensions are very different. If you forced it on, your car will be tweaked then. Your other option would be to cut it how you need to for it to fit and have somebody reweld it in the new configuration. That might be cheaper than sending it back and you won't have to worry about the holes in the firewall. By the way how did you pay for it? Credit card? You might have leverage that way if you dispute it.

I really don't like knurling. I had a head done many years ago and the guides were worn. Machinist suggested knurling as it was cheaper. With new valve stem seals it still had blow by because the knurling didn't hold up. Your head looks great by the way.

I suggested blocking off the booster several weeks ago. Don't know if that was ever done, as well as, eliminating other potential vacuum leak sources. More people on the forum will help you if you methodically answer individual questions and try what is suggested. If you don't help will dry up...

You need to know! It is hard to help someone from several thousand miles away. Even harder without all the facts.

The good news to prices going up is it makes it more practical to save cars that would have been scrapped before. Corvettes got to the place where even the ones in junk yards were being sold and restored. I hate to see any classic crushed

Was the diff clunk the worn u joint?

Sorry.. It's a secret

That was my point. Just trying to clarify.

I think I would give $100 for that, even if I had to buy flat tops. Go through it. I would probably disassemble it and check it all then buy what I needed.

8 AWG is heavier unless I am missing something.

I can't image you have a "generator" possibly an externally regulated alternator but not a generator...

Unless you run your car with a fuel gauge that is visible from the drivers seat then you don't know if you have a fuel pressure problem or not. I would think 3 psi would work in most situations beside "Wide Open Throttle". SU's don't like more than 3.5 PSI anyway. Fuel pressure is also not per carburetor but for the fuel rail as a whole. As an aside, it might be nice if you didn't start a ton of new threads just add a new reply or question to your existing related threads.

I agree some air in the filter is not a s sign of a bad pump.