Patcon

That is absolutely fabulous! I tend to agree the car probably got too hot to handle. Love it C

Pretty good video, but some of the info was off. Charles

Another area that I don't see mentioned is the carb inlet screens and the float bowls. If the screens are badly clogged they may not pass enough fuel and the bowls get low on fuel causing bucking or debris in the bowls that moves around and clogs up the holes. Another long shot is a piece of bad fuel line, internally collapsed, possible the lines under the carbs (this is not regular old fuel line) C

That's funny, I don't care who you are... C

What makes you think the vapor tank you took out was not original? C

Matt, I had the fiberglass air dam on an earlier Z. It doesn't take curbs or parking strips well and a chicken in the road at 55 mph made a mess out of it. Charles

I agree that spark plugs wont normally cause a no start condition, with the exception of putting in a sparkplug that is way too long...does the engine spin at all when you try to start it? If not take all the spark plugs out and see if it will spin without the compression. Make the spark and fuel safe for this. C

I have a xenon air dam I will be using. I had figured I would have to reinforce it too, as they flex a lot a speed. I had thought I would fab a bar all the way across the bottom on the inside lip and attach that to bracket in a similar way to what you did. That way the bottom edge couldn't flex and would hold its shape. All your work looks great. You are getting close Charles

That's great! That site is great for finding parts, especially later model stuff. I use it a lot to rebuild the cars I am working on. C

You are very welcome... C

If you had some spring compressors. You could compress one spring at a time and shake and lift that assembly to try to locate the noise. C

That would work since the pressures are pretty low... C

It appears I don't have any close. I can check some more, but I did find these on carpart.com. One of these guys might ship for you. Prices seem ok C

I assume you will be rebuilding this head? You just need a solid base? C

I don't know. Can you find flair nut connections that fit the lines good, since I assume they are really metric? Do you have room to put the connections in and still clear the body of the car when the line is in the insulators? Do you trust the splice? C

The lines aren't that thick and that has some pretty heavy pitting. I would replace. C

Steve, You're looking for a cylinder head off a maxima? What years? I will check near me if you get me some details... C

That's great. I can't wait to see what that mustache bar looks like... Charles

Where did you find them? C

Yeah it looks like an estate sale. There are a number of things there I would find interesting. Sort of bitter sweet to see one person possessions all up for sale. Hopefully the Z finds a good home... Charles

Did you make replacement backer panels for the door panels out of fiberglass? Charles

Interesting Z. Too bad I am so far away. Lots of good tools in the auction... C

Zed, I didn't find his response in post #19 as being dismissive. That is one of the short comings of forums and texting. The emotion is hard to convey and is generally added by the recipient. It didn't come across as harsh to me but could be read that way by you. My point was to encourage all involved to extend some grace that the way we might receive something is not always the way it is intended. I also understand that many of the ZDDP links on the internet have their own agenda which makes their conclusions questionable but not necessarily false. I don't know if there is really any unbiased study anywhere as the money that pays for the study tends to bias the study. As always I appreciate your info on the forum and willingness to help those who bring problems in. Have a good day... Charles

If I replace my lines, I will probably see if Fedhill has the appropriate sizes. I have used them for brake lines. C

If the vacuum advance was jamming or hanging up, would it cause this? C