Patcon

I found that new rear taillight gaskets might not be enough. The housings warp and the body is typically not flat where they mount. I used DAP "Seal N Peel" caulk on the tail light gaskets to make sure they're sealed well. It applies like a caulk but is easily removed in the future I replaced all the evaporative system hoses and floor seals. I caulked the area around the filler neck. I also caulked the hoses where they passed through the floor in addition to the new seals. I replaced the seal at the antennae drain I installed a repro series 1 hatch panel. When I did I used Peel & seal on that too. I drove the car the other day with the windows down. I don't remember any fumes but I was focused on other things

Looks great!!

I suggested changing out the pertronix about 50 posts ago... It's not wires, probably not plugs at this point. Maybe try to find a hotter ignition...

Call Jim at seven60 877 3403 I was told 5pcs was $300 2 front, 2 rear and cargo area. Black loop. It's been a year so prices have probably moved

I spoke to Chester and Herrods a while back. I will probably go that route later this year when I get to carpeting. I believe he could make whatever you want and he seemed to understand the unique requirements for an early car as well as the slots at the back of the floor mats for the retention clips

If you know anyone in law enforcement ask them to run the Vin and see if it's registered anywhere

I believe he has 6; you can just only see 2...

If Yarb doesn't have what you need... The 240z thermostat housing are available new. Not sure about the 280z though

I like the flames you had on the hood

$80 is cheap for a good flaring tool. I paid about 3x's that. Although with Amazon, they've probably come down a lot

Good looking car! Lily was originally that green. If I redo the brown Z, I own, I will paint it that green. One of my daughters really likes that green!

Is this a factory cam? Aftermarket cam? Part numbers? Are the pistons std bore? Oversized?

Blue car??

This is the tool I use for brake lines. And this is the anvil I use for the Z

That's a good collection of cars. Is yours the dark green one?

Very nice!!

I am running a mechanical pump

So I think I have the rear brake heat solved. Wilwood said the caliper has to be centered on the rotor. They said there is only a 0.020" tolerance I checked it and it was off to the outside. So I made some sheet metal shims that were about 20 thousands. They were tough to install but that centers the rotor, less about 0.005" We drove it yesterday and all of the rotors were with in 10d F of each other. I seem to have another issue. The car seems to run out of fuel when you rev it up high and go through the gears. About 5k in 2nd gear the AFR's go lean and the car quits pulling. My suspicion is fuel pump or a restriction in the fuel system. I coated the fuel tank with a sealant and I wonder if the free flow area of the pickup line has been reduced. I will probably rig up a temp tank in the front seat and see if the lack of fuel goes away .

I call that "tuition". The cost of learning. Ive rebuilt probably 40 assorted different cars. And every time we say "I didn't take enough pictures!"

Are you referring to the center console. Two bolts at the back and a longer one in the change tray? They are black oval headed screws...

Opening the engine is unlikely to show why your engine rpm drops randomly. That's not going to be an internal problem in my opinion

Big rubber under there!

I would have to look at my flaring tool. I believe I used 3/16 to glare all my lines

@Mike

What do you think the difference makers were? The other two Zs seemed to have pretty weak auctions...