Patcon

They will probably flatten a little with time

BTW don't buy a 3d printed part for that duct seal. It is supposed to be a soft rubber seal. If you see the soft rubber seals for sale, they came from Steve. He is the only one who makes them on the planet!

I would get those from Steve at 240zrubber https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-series-1-hatch-vent-duct-system-gasket-set So to recap: to my knowledge the hatch vents were always plastic. You need the grills The small barrel nuts the small clips that latch the ducts to the hatch The duct seals The ducts and the short tubes that connect the ducts to the hatch exit holes Pages 74 & 75

Paint can and color code?

Sorry, I wasn't referring to the texture on the carbs you restored. I figured that was previous corrosion. I thought your carbs looked great. I was referring to Nils comment on texture after blasting. Vapor honing or wet blasting with glass beads should help provide a nice finish to his carbs

Cleaner AL welds than mine 😉

I would think Vapor Honing would be the way to go. It shouldn't texture the surface that way

I don't think that's unreasonable. I would think most peoples minimum would be that much and it would take me 3 or 4 hours at least to plate that at home.

So no issue with plating the coil and contacts it looks like?

Are you using the factory combo switch? You might check there first

The other side of the horns are not shown. Did you remove the mechanism or just plate them whole?

BTW these were my connections on the switches

So I was intrigued by this idea, so I had to walk down to the shop right away. The plug is on correctly... On another note the brake light is out with the combo switches removed. I think I will go ahead and have them rebuilt and then proceed from there

When I get to the air cleaner I will try to get some dimensions for you. Remind me if I forget...

As of 8/1/2024 Marquis Zinc is no longer in business. 😞

@inline6 Did you ever solve your poor filter fitment?

Steve will make you one when you order. Even if it's listed as out of stock

Thanks, I read like $250 for the few parts you did. I will easily be four times that...

I sort of thought that too. We bled the brakes one circuit at a time but I would have thought the switch would recenter itself after both circuits made pressure?? Also it's not on until I turn the switch to the lock position. It's off in the "acc" and "on" positions

No he's never met you but he has seen your posts for a number of years now and can infer some things from the questions you ask. If you're going to get your feelings hurt by his comment and lash out I am quite confident the remaining help you have here will dry up. Also, always remember there is always someone bigger, meaner and badder than you! Best not to go around challenging people to fights. The man you underestimate might pummel you!

Did you have a good fuse cover? Mine has defects and I will have to figure out how to solve that. There are repros available that aren't very cheap but I am not sure how accurate they are. Some of the used ones are pretty pricy!

Do I need the combo switches in for this test? I just pulled them to have them refurbished...

Thanks for that. I have a number of parts that will need chroming. Gas door latches, hatch thimbles, ashtray parts, int door trims. Could get expensive... I found a company in Marietta. Did you speak to them? https://www.chromeatlanta.com/?utm_source=GMB&utm_medium=organic

I also worked on rekeying some door locks today. I have an ignition key I like and I want one key for the whole car So I played at making tiny springs!! @emccallum He are the assorted's. Spare locks, replacement parts, lockset pliers, seals, etc Here is a first attempt. It was actually one of the best attempts I am using some orthodontic wire. There was some that was about 0.015" dia and some that was more like 0.010" dia.. It's difficult to get the coils to wrap close to each other. I used a small drill bit as an arbor, like 0.063" dia I found that the thicker wire was a little too heavy for the key door. It installs ok but the door has too much resistance. The thinner wire worked better was more difficult to make neat looking springs Disassembled the lock Lightly blasted the lock case and the inside of the cap. Polished the cap with the buffing wheel. A piece of wire helps keep it from getting away from you Repinned the lockset. I only have 4 different wafers and it seemed like I needed another size. I reworked one with a buffing wheel to make it work for now. Also my replacement wafers don't have the little tab on the side that lock them into the tumbler like the factory ones do. So reassemble is a little trickier. One finished lockset

I tinkered some today I disassembled the door handles so I could plate the brackets. Today, I polished the handles and reassembled them Peened the pins. If that doesn't hold, I will weld a small tack there I had two sets so I picked the best looking ones I also replaced these window stops in the bottom of the doors. They are surprisingly hard to get to and R&R Also put these seals on the doors. I will probably add some sealant under portions of them after the glass frames go in Mounted door handles I bought off Amazon. The main issue with these is the holes in the door aren't really big enough. I had to do some grinding on the door handles pins and they were still a tight fit! But they look nice and they have all the rubber seals on them