Patcon

Very nice!!

I am running a mechanical pump

So I think I have the rear brake heat solved. Wilwood said the caliper has to be centered on the rotor. They said there is only a 0.020" tolerance I checked it and it was off to the outside. So I made some sheet metal shims that were about 20 thousands. They were tough to install but that centers the rotor, less about 0.005" We drove it yesterday and all of the rotors were with in 10d F of each other. I seem to have another issue. The car seems to run out of fuel when you rev it up high and go through the gears. About 5k in 2nd gear the AFR's go lean and the car quits pulling. My suspicion is fuel pump or a restriction in the fuel system. I coated the fuel tank with a sealant and I wonder if the free flow area of the pickup line has been reduced. I will probably rig up a temp tank in the front seat and see if the lack of fuel goes away .

I call that "tuition". The cost of learning. Ive rebuilt probably 40 assorted different cars. And every time we say "I didn't take enough pictures!"

Are you referring to the center console. Two bolts at the back and a longer one in the change tray? They are black oval headed screws...

Opening the engine is unlikely to show why your engine rpm drops randomly. That's not going to be an internal problem in my opinion

Big rubber under there!

I would have to look at my flaring tool. I believe I used 3/16 to glare all my lines

@Mike

What do you think the difference makers were? The other two Zs seemed to have pretty weak auctions...

What method did he use to clean the corrosion off the carb bodies?

I miss my Jims...☹️

I also appear to have a dragging brake. The left rear is getting pretty hot. I put some miles on it this weekend and the fronts were about 105F. The right rear was about 125F. The left rear was almost 200F. I thought it might be the Ebrake caliper dragging but I took it off entirely and it still gets warm. I am assuming it the left rear caliper and not the axle since it seems to be sided. I had wondered if it could be check valves in the master but that doesn't seem to fit the situation... Otherwise it drove pretty good. I experimented with spark curves some. It's surprising @AK260 if I switch to Ali's tune it pulls alot harder but won't idle with out a little choke. He has about 6 degrees more advance all in. The car pulls alot better like that. I really need to find a Dyno close to me to do some finish tuning

So Shelley was in the yard the other day and the Lilies were blooming

Bring a TrailerL28-Powered 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a L28-Powered 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #248,046.This seems like a poor result to me...

Or ignore it and operate on the principle that pointing right before the leg of the "P" is normal operating temperature...

Number 99. Nice looking early car. Should do pretty well. Especially in the UK

I made some pictures and dimensions of the barrel screws that were used to secure the tool covers to the hinges Renamed...

I think the 15 look really good on the car. I went 16s for the broad tire choices and to clear my Wilwoods

Are you running stock struts and spring perches? I was concerned about clearance of the stock suspension at 225, so I went 215. I may revisit that if / when I wear these out. I'm not sure they would clear and all tires have a slightly different profiled sidewall

@cgsheen1 Lay it on him... ;)

Nope, didn't know that...

The parking brake will adjust the shoes when the handle travel gets too long. If the handle doesn't pull up too high then it won't turn the pawl. Like Terrapin adjust them out until they just touch. Pump the brakes once it's all assembled and then double check the drum contact. Sometimes stepping on the pedal will center the shoes and add a little gap

Repro's The repro's use a very small double headed screw with about a 4mm OD

Probably not too far from Captain Obvious