Patcon

I hope you have welding skills. I suspect the floors are being held in by the sound mats and there is probably more rust in the doors themselves. I always like seeing a car get rescued though. C

Mike W, Who was the ebay seller? So we can locate one of those later if needed... Charles

I like the "Goobaru" that's good. With that kind of rust in the rear I would expect plenty more somewhere else... Charles

Maybe someone with a similar displacement and a similar cam could tell you what their idle rpm's are and how stable it is. I would be surprised if it was a cam problem. I guess you could try to contact Schneider and see what they suggest for an idle rpm. Having to rely on mechanics to sort your antique car can be a problem, unless your have some money to spend. I wouldn't rule out ignition or electrical issues contributing to your problem. Charles

Look for vacuum leaks. A weak idle is sometimes cause by vacuum leaks. The technology is old but it does work. If you have serious idle fluctuations there is something wrong. Charles

My only contribution here is to the new injector issue. I hopped up a 95 Suburban years ago. It was throttle body injected and I had to try several different sets of injectors to find one that delivered the right amount of fuel. One of the sets I got had a bad injector right out of the box. Unless you are sure the injectors don't leak and flow correctly you are possibly overlooking the root cause. Charles

Ok the first one is what it is. Not crazy about yellow interior but whatever. It has a lot of nice hardware but I hate all the metal panels on the tail and interior. Amazing amount of rubber under the back. The second one is sort of the same. A lot of nice pieces but way too much color, and blue and yellow don't seem to really work together. Could have been a really nice classy looking Z even yellow. Just not yellow everywhere. He also has a 93 RX7 that has $160k in it. He either has more money than he knows what do with or just bad investment skills. Charles

What transmission? C

No picture of the pretty coffee girl...? Old school wire wheels, love it. Love the fuel rail and pressure gauge too. Charles

I bet that process is cheap too. C

The video is what I'm talking about. Heat makes them come out easier. The machine shop has a machine that heats them beside the press where they press them out. If I was going to balance. I would have someone press them out for me if necessary. Balance them at home and reassemble. I have a 20T press at the house so I can probably do it all here now. A hammer would not be my first choice... C

I have used Tabco panels for some wheel well repairs. They are pretty close but not perfect, but I suspect all these low volume parts all come off the same press somewhere... Charles

Most times I balance pistons and rods separately. The location of the weight can make a difference. That may be overkill... Charles

I don't know on wear. Welds are normally harder than regular sheet metal but I don't know compared to forged. You can get MIG wire in a lot of different types. This company services cranks from all kinds of stuff from large pumps to race cars. They know their stuff. It would be interesting to ask but if they said it would be ok I wouldn't worry about it. I don't even know on costs but I imagine its kind of pricey to pay for the machine... Charles

What makes that crank special? My crankshaft shop could grind it or even build the journals up and then dress it but it would have to have significant value to justify it. They have a really cool machine that welds a continuous bead onto the journal to build it up and then they turn it down. It can spin the crank so as to keep a rod surface or crank surface centered. Charles

Let us know how it works. Would be an easy way to fix this kind of damage. C

Glad you got it worked out. C

PM him...maybe point him to the thread so it can be documented for all. C

How did you treat the bare metal between the panels? Are you TIGing or MIGing? Charles

Its a little late now but I never get rid of old parts until I am sure the new parts fixed it. Even if they lay around for a couple of weeks. Sounds like you may need to scrounge up or fabricate a longer rod... Charles

Some of the other guys may have a more experienced opinion. I always have the rotating assembly balanced in the motors I build L6, V8 whatever. For the added costs compared to the total rebuild cost I do it. I don't have to pay someone for assembly so I come out ahead overall. A balanced motor should have less vibration and theortically rev smoother and potentially higher depending on the valvetrain. The last time I paid for balancing it was $300 or so... C

Yes Steve contributes fairly regularly. He just posted yesterday in the "What did you do today" thread. Fresh hardware is not cheap. I don't know if it is cheaper to order new or get replated Norm who's website escapes me I believe has almost all of it available...

Since the pistons are numbered I would assume the rotating mass was balanced so keeping them in the same hole maintains that balance. If you move some or replace some I would want to have the rotating assembly rebalanced. then there is nothing to worry about... C

Thanks Chas, I thought they were the same, but the picture threw me off. I was thinking that would be really hard to drive if the pedals were different... Charles

Matisse doesn't do much for me, butt I'm not a tennis fan either. However I would rather have Diseazd's car collection and would still have money in the bank. I want a car I can drive and I would feel bad putting miles on a truly rare car. Not to mention the insurance and the potential for an accident... C