Patcon

That was great Blue. thanks for that. That makes perfect sense about the pinch welds. I assume that document is now part of the database now, so I can always find it since I'm in it . I love the burn marks from splatter on his notes. Charles PS The car went to our frame man today and he said it was an 1" out so I was glad I took it...

Complete views of the car with part numbers... Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Parts Manual I look up parts here to check prices but I am not sure that everything that they have a price for is available... Nissan Parts - BuyNissanParts.com Charles

It looks like the part number should be 44095-M4910 @ buynissanparts.com look like they are about $4 each... C

The FSManual has the diagram that shows all the frame dimensions on it. It is all in metric and at the bottom there is a baseline near the rocker panel that everything is measured from. The question is where is the line on the car at the bottom of the rocker or at the bottom of the body flange below the rocker? I am going to the frame shop in the morning and need to check all the frame dimensions. Thanks, Charles

That was a very nice gift! C

Is there a difference for 73? I have a good used center valence that still has the Nissan sticker in it. I have it on an early Z that is too far gone... Charles

Your best bet would be to find a body shop or a body man that does work on the side. Go to a local paint store PPG / Finish masters etc. Tell them what you need and ask them to recommend somebody. One of the guys at my Finish masters does work on the side. I would do a small section cut and just replace that area that got hit and pulled out. The patch metal could be taken from almost any quarter panel even a rusty one because they tend to rust lower or around the wheel arch so that area is normally good... Charles

That is a stock fuel pump, and if you buy one from a parts store it may not even look like that. Some of the newer cheaper pumps don't have that type cover. whether that is the original pump or not who knows, but I doubt it. C

Captain Obvious may be right on this. He nailed an earlier diagnosis. Banjo bolts are at the intake to the SU float bowls. The intake tube has a bolt that goes thru it, fuel goes thru the intake port, then thru a small screen around the bolt, then thru the bolt and into the float bowls. Google "SU Banjo bolt"... C

I am not a fan of the turbo 4 either but I don't mind the lines on the design car. Right now many of the high performance cars are going thru a very "edgey" type of design phase... C

I assume you are using a MIG? For MIG welding I think you did all right. If you used a flapper wheel those would dress down nicely... Charles

What are you guys objections to the car design in the link? What don't you like? Charles

I wouldn't give half that. It looks like they stripped all the paint so it could rust, which is stupid considering these cars already have enough issues with rust. No shifter boot, all the heater controls are gone and have toggle switches there. I figure the drivetrain is worth $500-$700 and the shell is worth $500 so $1500 for an actual cash value. The car would need a paint job and has some obvious sheet metal damage in places. Rust repairs? It is in Miami... Finish the interior. It would take some money to polish this into something presentable. My opinion of course... Go to searchtempest.com and search for 240z or 280z off your zipcode and see what you can buy for $3,000. You can buy a lot more car than that, complete with paint Charles

Check the screens in the banjo bolts, replace the fuel filter and do a flow test. The rear screen may be clogged and with the front line blanked off enough pressure can be built up to feed the rear carb. Cutting on a gas tank and welding for that matter is a very bad idea. The tank has to be absolutely clean and your welding has to be very good to not have pinhole leaks. I weld a lot for a hobbyist and I wouldn't try it. There are kits that can be used for cleaning the tank and resealing. Clean with acid, neutralize and coat with tank sealant. A much easier and safer idea... Charles

Did you try to contact Rocky Auto to see what kit they used on the Black Z? C

Blue, Did you ever source the larger flares? The Akira ones are pretty good, but I think I prefer the larger flares... Charles

I found that my 73 won't crack if all of that is not hooked up. Also make sure all the small connections at the passenger kick panel are correct. Will it crank over with a remote starter or screwdriver short on the starter? Is the harness well grounded to the firewall near the battery? C

Theorectically you could multiply the desired dimension by 1.3723 and that would give you the correct value for float setting in water. But I am not sure I did the conversion right... somebody want to check that? C

A gallon of water weighs about 8.33 #'s a gallon of gasoline weighs 6.07 #'s so the float is going to ride higher in the water versus the gasoline because it has to displace more gasoline to equal its weight than water to equal its weight... Charles

Is every thing plugged into the harness? Even the rear harness sections that go down the passenger frame rail? Charles

Did a little Google search and that seems like a tough transmission but it looks like you better be ready to get off your wallet... C

You're lapping me at this point. I found a little more frame damage the other day, so I have put off spraying the engine bay and interior until I get our frame man to pull on it a little bit. It is great to get to color. It starts to get fun after that... Charles

Notes on Eastwood internal frame coating. If you buy some use it they won't stand behind it after just a little while look up their terms, I want to say 30 days. I had a can on the shelf for a while and it wouldn't dispense so that can is full but trash. The cans are not cheap something like $20 each. I used 4 cans or so on my Z. Around the hatch frame, inside the lower part of the hatch. The frame areas on the hood, floor boards and frame rails, areas of the quarters that are hard to paint. Rear subframe. It works pretty good and is top coatable with pretty much anything according to their technical guys. I went over where needed with Epoxy primer. The small hose on the aerosol cans works really well because it will go in many of the smaller diameter factory holes. My car is on a rotisserie so I could rotate it to help distribute the material. Eastwood also sells an under coater gun with a quart of Internal Frame coating included. Don't go that route. I did and the material will not feed through the gun. It dries too quickly and stops up the under coater gun. That was a huge disappointment. The aerosol cans work pretty good though. I would do that again... Charles

Datsun : Z-Series G-Nose in Datsun | eBay Motors Ebay link, sold for 15k. Pretty nice car, I love the sound of the cam... C

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/50099-hunt-early-z-70-71-72-73-a.html#post438950 Try this C