Patcon

very cool, enjoy... Charles

I don't know if this product is suitable for powder coating, you could probably ask Eastwood. I use Eastwood's "After blast" on parts after I strip them. It is an acid product with some other additives it works a lot like "Ospho" but with out the varnish like finish. It turns the parts blueish gray like Phosphoric acid does and they can sit for months in my shop and not develop any surface rust. You might want to look into it... FWIW no relation with either company... Charles

More beautiful work, as always... C

Very nice pictures but I was wondering how much was stick welding and how much was TIG or Mig... Charles

Yup $130 plus shipping versus $56 from Australia ... Charles

When do you expect the parts? C

When do you expect the parts? C

Ad is $30,000 if it is a very nice car he is probably not bad out of line C

Caswell has a lot of supplies for the DIY'er the yellow cad that is on many of the Z fasteners and the bright zinc that is on many of the screws and door hardware etc are reproducible with theirs kits and are actual zinc plating not paints like the Eastwood kits are. It is a cool process and the results are really good. I you want a great looking car clean fasteners is the way to go, and like most things it is much cheaper to plate them yourself. nix240z has a cool setup and has plated many things, his car will be museum quality when it is done... Charles

Jan, I just bought a new set out of Australia from "peterkm123" off ebay there were about $56 a pair the only other source I know of is Precision Rubber I believe at $140+ per pair. Charles

How's the knee? The car? Charles

I didn't understand the comment E-tek. I have some fresh epoxy primer and after 3 weeks it will still rub off with lacquer thinner. Kevin Tetz responded to me on another forum and said it was just the nature of the material. So that appears to be the case...

Cool, Didn't know that could be done... Charles

Steve, Did you plate this with your setup? Charles

I agree with Carl. The price is reasonable for a clean car with a forged turbo intercooled conversion putting down serious power, but it will take a special buyer... Charles

The bearings should all have numbers on them. Get a magnifying glass or some reading glasses and try to find the numbers on the bearings. Google them or talk to a bearing distributor to find a match many bearing houses can help with seals too, the washers I don't know... Charles

Kelly, How long has it been sitting? Has it shifted since you have started working on it again? Charles

E Radatz Motorsports 961 Shallowford Rd NE, Kennesaw, GA 30144 Phone: (770) 926-6609 Charles

Yes but not very cheap... Some one may have a used set... Charles

Eddie Radatz He's not far from you google him and you should be able to come up with some contact info. He should have one laying around. Charles

Waiting with baited breath. Pictures please... Charles

From what I can tell the biggest difference in your car would be fuel maps and spark curve due to the displacement, head work and cam. Unless you do something really different and the reality is everyones maps and curves will be a little different because all engines vary from one to another. Your maps however would be very helpful if I ever build something with a V07 I have laying around . C

That sounds like a good choice C

you'll do fine In most ways these cars are probably simpler than most of the cars you've done. Rust is the biggest issue. The engines are very solid as long as carbs and ignition are good. Electrical is not normally very hard unless a previous owner got happy with the cutters and wire nuts. Brakes are pretty straight forward too. Have fun, we are close in age and I have kids that age too if he shows an interest feed into it. It will make some great memories. Pretty much everything you need to know is here on this forum some where, and the technical expertise is the best bar none. Charles

Welcome, are you good with a wrench? Charles