Patcon

I think the $3770 offer was the best it's gonna do. I would probably contact that bidder and see if I could work something out...

I have a question. Is there a way to identify a factory Nissan windshield gasket? I have a used gasket thats still pretty pliable. I would clean it up and use it if I knew it was a Nissan part. Otherwise, I will buy a clean new one...

I also sprayed the rear tail light panels with clear matte today per Jim A's recipe. I worked on the trim for those panels also. I removed it to make it easier to paint them and polish the trim. We will see how hard they are to get back on. An interesting note, these piece are carbon steel and must be plated. They are magnetic. I was surprised they weren't stainless! I also got the last vent line at the tank worked out by lining it with a spring. I then got the tank straps installed and the filler neck all setup. If I could have found all the clamps I needed I would have gotten the vapor tank all taken care of too

I have been pulling some larger items together for plating. I have 3 pairs of headlights and thought I would post up some observations on the factory parts The buckets themselves look like they are probably all the same stamping. They clock them 180d out to make L and R side buckets. Then the spring tab gets added, which covers the R or L stamping location The headlights buckets have the exact same part numbers no matter L or R The lamp rings are made for either the left or right side

@grannyknot I do still plate some items, but I have some larger items that I can't plate. My tanks aren't large enough and my power supply isn't large enough. I am still unsure that my at home plating is a durable as professional plating. I sometimes have Caswell pieces that develop "white rust". I am unsure if that is a problem with my method or just the limitations of the safer chemicals. So I am going to send them out and I will get a charge for a whole rack, so I am trying to pull some things together to fill the rack up. I might use a little heat and try to get the plastic pieces out of the buckets.

I will provide the new spring hat...

Also many inspection sites have photos of what a stock engine bay should look like. If you went after market EFI you would probably have to preserve the factory look...

I'm not sure that running lean it going to hurt your emissions test. I would think it would help but maybe I'm wrong. I am also unsure as to whether you can run megasquirt in OR and still pass smog. Many states won't allow that.

I wouldn't be surprised if the size has changed that much over 50 years. I don't think the drive shaft issue is a concern.

View Advert Datsun 510 wiper pivot Im looking fo a wiper pivot for a 510. I have one that has been repaired but if I could souce another one, I would. The pivots in the Z cars are different from the 510's Advertiser Patcon Date 10/01/2023 Price $123 Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 510

The fuel gauge helps ensure the proper fuel pressure. A bad FPR will make your fuel pressure too high which will cause a rich condition

I agree in principle but I know those plastic pieces aren't going to come out whole. They're too brittle. That means I would have to have replacements for the three pairs of headlights I am redoing. Also since I can't find the special rubber caps for the adjustment screws, the hardware will be exposed to the debris and water coming off the front tires. I don't think that is a good idea either for a long term solution. I was hoping someone would have a source or an elegant solution...

I have few questions When people are getting the headlight buckets plated, are you leaving the plastics for the adjuster screws in the buckets? Also I have seen where vendors are selling those plastic piece for the adjuster screws nut they don't have the plastic tube protector. Does anybody know of a source for those? Also when people are plating the latch mechanism from the edge of the passenger doors. Are you just cleaning them the best you can and plating them or are you disassembling them to some level?

Yes, the threading is standard righty tighty but looking from the bottom. So from above, everything is backards. If you can't adjust it out with the mixture nuts then it's a float level issue

That's an interesting method for dealing with water intrusion. I also think it's great you shared the template. Please don't take what follows as criticism! I will counter by saying Ive seen a good many rusty Zs. I dont recall any being rotten around the emblem pins or having damage from water intrusion from the emblem pins. It's almost always something else. I also suspect most restored cars aren't subject to the elements on a regular basis. Though your method might help the paint last and not bubble near the emblems . A little silicone at each pin hole might accomplish a similar result

They paint salvage cars for me sometimes and do a lot of panel painting. Good guys and they turned out pretty good. $650 and I supplied the material. He did some prep work to augment mine and blocked everything to 500 wet.

Nice kit. Sounds well designed. Pretty significant investment...

@SteveJ If the starter doesn't disengage would it add current to the system?

Also to update on marker light screws Yes, the come black and they are stainless So I bead blasted it Then I buffed it for about 5 seconds That should work...

I picked up the panels the other day

Fascinating, I checked Rockauto but they didn't have it. I googled it and checked the shopping link. Some 10w-30 and 20w-50 but no 10w-40. There was some straight SAE 40... Same thing at Jeg's and Summit racing...

Some more pictures of the structures inside the 280z tank would be nice.

Any more details you can add would be great!

240 or 280z tank?

Yup, there are a lot of moving parts in the front end. Probably not going to find one thing that makes all the difference. Might be a few small things that get you to where you want to be