Patcon

What happens to that in tank screen if you coat a tank? It seems like it would become a solid brick...

Another case of new parts not really being what you expect. Imagine how we could go around in circles because some part is "new" even though it's bad out of the box! Super of Ron to help point the right way!

What is the condition of the other rubber bushings up front and the tie rod ends?

How has it held up? How much abuse has it received?

I agree the paint looks exceptional. The panels are really smooth and the body line is nice and crisp!

What ever became of this fuel tank?

The car is a 77. I am pretty sure the rail is original

Maybe, so when I rev it, blip it, fuel pressure should spike up, but reving ot up and holding it probably wont spike the fuel pressure like that... Also what is supposed to hold pressure in the system? Ie prevent bleed off after shut down

Thanks! We'll see what he finds

So to tie this off, we got the drums off. We got the car started on an alternate fuel source. The car is on jack stands with the rear wheels off. And using the drive train, we got one of the wheels to turn. Then I used a flat bar to hold the freed up wheel's parking brake mechanism to force the other wheel to turn. The added bonus was with the wheels off the drums started to work their way off on their own. I had brought a large three leg puller with me and we forced them the rest of the way off with that. I think he's going to find that the parking brake levers are seized in the backing plate holding the shoes out...

Thanks for the quick feedback. I will put a vacuum gauge on it next time I have a chance. Should the fuel pressure gauge fluctuate when you rev the car or does it not respond that way or that fast?

Ok,here's where we're at. We have the car running again tonight and I have a fuel pressure gauge on it. What is the factory pressure supposed to be? I don't know this 280z stuff off the top of my head but I know someone does. The pressure gauge is just after the fuel filter and before the fuel rail. We were seeing pressures of between 26 & 28#s. That seems low from my memory. Also the pressure bleeds off pretty fast one we kill the power

I considered that and agree, but you could also add enough identifiers like 1156 amber or max length to make it possible to search if an offering become unavailable

If I remember right, the hinges really need to rotate a little bit not just go straight down. I do agree though, loosen them slightly have someone force the hood down as far as it'll go . Extra if you have it and tighten them up while reaching through the grill opening

I think that should be in the resource section or maybe a searchable thread of its own

Looks great! You're making great progress!

I think Captain Obvious is pointing out, it can't "work like stock" if you blocked the port with a screw...

If the car was more solid I think it would have brought more but it needs a lot of metal work and that really hurts the value

It looks like $19, $49 or $79 depending on the final price and what you want in the ad

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1431874594245004/?mibextid=dXMIcH Pretty close to what I'm thinking about for "Lily"

I realize NPT is the wrong thread but it should probably thread in a couple of turns anyway. Something else seems to be wrong.

I agree with Carl, that is a pretty good offer for the car. I'm not sure it's worth any more than that in parts and it needs a title. Seems like a pretty good price. The market is much softer than it was a year or two ago.

Green Z on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/394871508806 $3,770 Reserve not met...

The headlight gasket is between the headlight bucket and the inner fender. There was evidently another seal between the sugar scoop and the fender. I have never seen one. Would love to see an image of what it looked like

I wondered if the bearings could change the backlash?