Patcon

Who welded it? Mig or Tig? Any leaks or post weld sealer?

Maybe they're using really hot water? That would explain the work description

If you're going to gutter it, you might want to be on the 3" side. You could also counter flash from under the roof panels to down inside the gutter to protect the sub fascia a little better

No I dont think the 2x6 or 2x8 weight would be an issue. I would prefer spruce, pine or fur. Not yellow pine or treated. It loghter and straighter and nearly as strong. Just let the panels extend 2-4 inches to keep water off the sub fascia. I wouldn't put the pieces in the window. I think that might cause other problems and obstructs the window. You're not spanning too far and it has very little weight on it. The tributory load is half on the building side and half on the fascia side. Maybe 8 sq ft total on the fascia side. A deadload of 5# a foot which is probably high would be 40#s. The subfascia is very strong in the vertical orientation. Even with snow load it might be a couple of hundred pounds. Still not a problem I don't believe

I would go original or California style. Wouldn't want to try to design a new system

Or buy one from a forum member

If it were me, I am a builder, I would run a sub fascia across the end of all the rafters. A 2x6 at a minimum or maybe a 2x8. I would add rafters at the window and door with out the braces. Fastened well on the building side and the sub fascia. I would then strap the top with 1x4's a 16"OC or maybe even 12"OC. Then I would run the panel on top of the 1x4s with flutes aligned with the slope. The sub fascia should help span the gap that's not braced and the 1x4's will also help. Rain is not the issue, snow load might be... I would use screws like GRK's for assembly versus nails to try to lock it all together

I don't believe that is a 280z radio. I believe its for a 240z. Btw if it works, its quite valuable! It even has value if it doesn't work. Look on Ebay to see what I mean

He evidently used a paintless dent repair guy to pull the dents out. A good idea but would be fairly expensive where I live.

So we marked the swaged end of the parking brake cable @ 3"s Cut it off. Then we marked this end of the parking brake cable 3"s from the mounting flange Cut it off To get the end clean Cody heated it up some and pulled out the remnant Then we bead blasted the end I will try to plate it this weekend

That's a nice sized compressor! BTW I am so glad you're here posting. Otherwise I would run out of stuff to read and that would be bad!

Here are the new grills They included barrel clips This would match what I found on disassembly. I believe this was the original method for mounting the vents. I think it was revised later to use a spring nut in the vent to hold the emblem stud I blacked out some areas. I didn't try to be neat and I blacked more than the factory did. The hatch vents definitely have some warpage. I gently heated them tonight and propped them up with paper. Haven't made any pictures yet What do you think this slot is for? Also do you just glue the interior trim to this vertical panel? Do you use jute here?

Thanks, yes, very helpful!

Will be interesting to see what you receive

That's a rowdy sounding Tiger!!

Any pointers for the leather interior? I am about to start this same work

Actually I dont believe the factory panels were perfect off the line. With 50+ years of wear we have no idea if the panels still have the factory shape. I reshaped my doors. It's buried somewhere in my build thread. If the front edge lines up with the fender properly and one of the rear corners of the door sits proud. It's the only way to make it line up. It's really not hard to do

The doors can be warped by hand if necessary

All of the suspension bushings need to tightened after the suspension has settled. Otherwise they will add lift.

I may go that way in the future, once I get some other projects out of the way

Well I would guess that if the painted part of the door aligns well then you could loosen the stainless frame and tip it in to preload it, so that it crushes the seal more. Or as a final step you could bend the frame in some more but you'd have to be careful doing that

Yes, I have seen these but was always unsure which locations actually needed them

They look great!!!

Great pictures! Those help a lot. I am probably going to buy all new interior pieces from Resurrected classics so they all match. That will include a new hatch panel with flaps. I had also figured I would need to seal all that up really well

That's good. They won't hold up well raw like that. Oiled might help but I hate to oil things I want to plate later. Knowing you will avoid rain will also help