Patcon

Good for you!

I have one but it will only work about half the time. The ears are too large sometimes especially if the bushing is set in deeply. Then there is no room to hook the rear edge of the bushing

Just because they are refurbished does not mean they are set up properly. If the float levels, mixture and balance aren't right it's gonna foul plugs. It might be interesting to try to get a matchbox dizzy and dump the Pertronix. I have had mixed results with Pertronix. I wouldn't use one on my car anymore.

Does anyone have thoughts on this? Should the factory pump setup self prime without cracking lines?

Are those cases different to the 300zx LSD cases? Edit: from to 280 to 300zx

The later doors have a number of differences. The latching and strike mechanism is totally different. I think the crash bars are heavier as well as things like the rubber across the top of the door frame. I guess the biggest thing would be if the mounting points are all the same. I would expect so but I'm not certain

What details suggest this? I don't have any pictures currently of the R200 LSD's I have to compare to

I set them at the back edge of the chamfer. I have always lightly greased the tip of the input shaft. I didn't think it would hurt...

Depends on if you can find one in a junkyard or maybe a member might have a good candidate. Most anything you find will have to be gone through...

Yes, what Mark said. Float levels are super important on SU carbs! And yes the dial on the bottom adjusts the mixture by lowering or raising the the nozzle (the black stem connected to the fuel line). Once you have them balanced at idle. You need to raise the idle to 1800 or so and adjust them at fast idle. Also there shouldn't be fuel coming out of the float bowl overflows. If there is, that's a problem. Too much fuel in the bowl will make it run rich Maybe @siteunseen will find you a good thread on carb adjustment. He's the local librarian! 😉

The shape of the Z causes a low pressure are at the rear of the car, especially with the windows down. Any opening at the back of the car will introduce fumes, Power antenna drain, vent line grommets, taillight harness grommet, tail lights, hatch panel and latch, etc

@Richie G Those are excellent pictures! Very helpful for the corner seals. Thanks. I have been procrastinating on this too.

Very cool! Just ordered one

All kinds of possibilities. It's really unfortunate we haven't been able to sort this yet. I cant tell from the plugs if it's carbon or oil. Mark might be right on it being fueling or spark. It could also be valve seals or oil rings. Even with good compression you can have blow by. I think more compression testing is a waste of time. If the valve guides are badly worn the seals may not seal. This is a California Datsun engine after all! I guess Jalex needs to pick a direction. Fueling and ignition or Short block and head. It's hard to know which way to go from such a long distance. Also there is the issue of finding competent people to help him. Maybe you start with the cheapest option???? Maybe you just pull the head and have it gone through??? Valves, guides, seals, proper geometry... It's problematic that the cars are so rare where he's at. Otherwise he could try different parts to help diagnose..

I think starting with fuel pressure and vacuum gauge is the first step

I thonk I would look to copy the original rally size tire for the proper look. Maybe one of the forum members with more knowledge of that will chime in.

Seam sealer sticks to almost anything! You can wipe up excess with lacquer thinner Silicone will seal and bonds pretty good but isn't paintable Silicone can be wiped up with denatured alcohol

I agree, this is not a 3 digit problem. Mark makes a good point trying to find the extent of the damage. Your repair estimates will be more accurate the more you uncover. And yes you could section the pan and only replace the areas that need it. Flat metal is not ideal because it can oil can. The stamped sections of the floor pan help add strength

I replied in your other thread

I would recommend going to some of the automotive paint supply stores in your area (finish masters?). Ask them for some names of shops that do classic car work. Dont do it in front of other customers! Collision shops don't like working on classic cars. You need to find a restoration shop. The guys who sell the paint will know who's in your area. Go to more than one paint supply house. Their customers tend to shop at only one shop. So it's sort of Balkanized. Once you find a restoration shop they may not be interested or have a long backlog, ask them who they would recommend. It's gonna require some networking. I would drive the car. The car will still maintain its shape even with no floor pan. I wouldn't thrash on the car though...

These cars were driven pretty hard through the rally years. Even wrecked; rolled back over and run some more! I suspect a properly developed suspension and some minor chassis work would make the car fair just fine. Provided it's not abused. If you take this route, start a build thread. I would like to follow along.

I was wondering if they were used in multiples on other cars, did they mess with a balance tube?

Were they ever used as multiples on any vehicle?

I put the trim back on the rear finishers For the most part it went on by hand. I tapped it a little with a soft rubber mallet. Thanks so much to Jim for the excellent recipe! @jfa.series1

Did you mention in a previous post what system that is?