Patcon

I ordered the tunnel leather package and the shifter boots. If this works out I will probably do seats and door panels too. We'll see... I got his email back today: Hi Charles, Sincere apologies for the inconvenience, I will get back to you shortly with the status. Thanks. Khalid.

So here is the issue: I placed an order at the end of August this year. 4-6 weeks for delivery. That's fine, no rush. I sent an email at the end of October. They told me,"There's no problem with the order. It should go out the end of this week or next week." So it's four weeks later now and still no leather! Currently 12 weeks later and it's starting to hold up progress. I emailed them again today. We'll see what they say...

Has anyone had dealings with Interior Innovations? I wanted to see how your experience was

Either kick panel would be my first choice. I would want it somewhere you dont have to be a contortionist to get to

That's good progress!

Start on post #233 and see if there's anything helpful here

Paint thickness might be an issue for me

@zKars Any advise on the reinstallation of these pieces?

You could adopt me! I'll show an interest 😁

I think in your case, you will probably want to wet sand before buffing unless your trim is scratch free. You are working towards a much higher standard than I am

Here are the buffs I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087R5HSNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So we worked on Cody's car some. We got the header from Troy Ermish. He was more than willing to work with us on some fitment issues. The header touches the block near the outside edge of the bell housing. We spent some time with the die grinder and clearanced the block and bell housing. It's pretty close to the floor. Hopefully the motor doesn't move that much in the mounts Then I mixed up some blue to touch up where we had been grinding The other issue is the parking brake cable. We need to pull it over to the side but there is too much slack. So we going to try to take 3" out of it We'll see how that goes

I love the hardware documentation!! That Is so helpful!

If the numbers don't make sense then counting turns is pretty fool proof

So, I can't find the source for that diagram. I couldn't find it on carpartsmanual. Is it in the factory parts manual? I don't have those. I was trying to find the part number. Post it up if you can find it

Well on an SU setup there is the diaphram that I think helps with antistall. They are missing on many cars. I would look for something to install there. I think it can pull in that configuration

I have had the buffer take trim pieces from me. It happens really fast even on low at 1800 rpm! It would be really easy to get hurt that way and it almost always damages or destroys the trim piece. This method seems much more controllable. I did polish the qtr glass frames on the buffer, but they are much sturdier

Sometimes, you have to do exactly that. Fortunately all of the metal panels are available now. That is a fairly recent phenomenon. That makes this repair a lot more manageable. The real problem is you have to sequence the work and be careful to get the car back together straight.

So I worked on the glass trim for the rear hatch glass some I have a nice 2 speed buffer but I don't like polishing these parts that way. If it grabs it they usually get destroyed and they're a little too much like blades to have whipping around you. So I used a buffing pad on a 2" Rolok This is what the finish looked like to start with I'm using white rouge This is after. You can still see some scratching but they will do for now. If I let myself be OCD, I could wet sand starting with 1500 probably and then buff but I don't want to slow my progress down right now On another note, I soaked the blistered yellow zinc in citric acid for a day or too. When they came out they were black. But come to find out that just rinsed right off with water and a toothbrush. Then dried them off. I will bead blast them again before I replate

The tail light panel looks pretty rough on top...

@the_tool_man

I was thinking the window frames were stainless??

Yeah, thats not an uncommon thing. There is a lot of force right there on the handle. It typically comes from people pulling the handle up too firmly until it stops. If you just pull it up enough for it to unlatch but not hit the stop it shouldn't do this

That is the problem with the toyota calipers. It can be difficult to find the right ones. Some will take the vented rotors and some will not. Even though they are marked the same.

You really have to wonder who would think that little rail is suitable for picking up the car!