Patcon

The fuel gauge helps ensure the proper fuel pressure. A bad FPR will make your fuel pressure too high which will cause a rich condition

I agree in principle but I know those plastic pieces aren't going to come out whole. They're too brittle. That means I would have to have replacements for the three pairs of headlights I am redoing. Also since I can't find the special rubber caps for the adjustment screws, the hardware will be exposed to the debris and water coming off the front tires. I don't think that is a good idea either for a long term solution. I was hoping someone would have a source or an elegant solution...

I have few questions When people are getting the headlight buckets plated, are you leaving the plastics for the adjuster screws in the buckets? Also I have seen where vendors are selling those plastic piece for the adjuster screws nut they don't have the plastic tube protector. Does anybody know of a source for those? Also when people are plating the latch mechanism from the edge of the passenger doors. Are you just cleaning them the best you can and plating them or are you disassembling them to some level?

Yes, the threading is standard righty tighty but looking from the bottom. So from above, everything is backards. If you can't adjust it out with the mixture nuts then it's a float level issue

That's an interesting method for dealing with water intrusion. I also think it's great you shared the template. Please don't take what follows as criticism! I will counter by saying Ive seen a good many rusty Zs. I dont recall any being rotten around the emblem pins or having damage from water intrusion from the emblem pins. It's almost always something else. I also suspect most restored cars aren't subject to the elements on a regular basis. Though your method might help the paint last and not bubble near the emblems . A little silicone at each pin hole might accomplish a similar result

They paint salvage cars for me sometimes and do a lot of panel painting. Good guys and they turned out pretty good. $650 and I supplied the material. He did some prep work to augment mine and blocked everything to 500 wet.

Nice kit. Sounds well designed. Pretty significant investment...

@SteveJ If the starter doesn't disengage would it add current to the system?

Also to update on marker light screws Yes, the come black and they are stainless So I bead blasted it Then I buffed it for about 5 seconds That should work...

I picked up the panels the other day

Fascinating, I checked Rockauto but they didn't have it. I googled it and checked the shopping link. Some 10w-30 and 20w-50 but no 10w-40. There was some straight SAE 40... Same thing at Jeg's and Summit racing...

Some more pictures of the structures inside the 280z tank would be nice.

Any more details you can add would be great!

240 or 280z tank?

Yup, there are a lot of moving parts in the front end. Probably not going to find one thing that makes all the difference. Might be a few small things that get you to where you want to be

What happens to that in tank screen if you coat a tank? It seems like it would become a solid brick...

Another case of new parts not really being what you expect. Imagine how we could go around in circles because some part is "new" even though it's bad out of the box! Super of Ron to help point the right way!

What is the condition of the other rubber bushings up front and the tie rod ends?

How has it held up? How much abuse has it received?

I agree the paint looks exceptional. The panels are really smooth and the body line is nice and crisp!

What ever became of this fuel tank?

The car is a 77. I am pretty sure the rail is original

Maybe, so when I rev it, blip it, fuel pressure should spike up, but reving ot up and holding it probably wont spike the fuel pressure like that... Also what is supposed to hold pressure in the system? Ie prevent bleed off after shut down

Thanks! We'll see what he finds

So to tie this off, we got the drums off. We got the car started on an alternate fuel source. The car is on jack stands with the rear wheels off. And using the drive train, we got one of the wheels to turn. Then I used a flat bar to hold the freed up wheel's parking brake mechanism to force the other wheel to turn. The added bonus was with the wheels off the drums started to work their way off on their own. I had brought a large three leg puller with me and we forced them the rest of the way off with that. I think he's going to find that the parking brake levers are seized in the backing plate holding the shoes out...