Patcon

Well let's start with the car is 50 years old. If you treated it as a cheap car and drove it in all sorts of weather, your repair aught to last another 50. If you properly prime your repairs and avoid salted roads I expect your repairs will last 100 or so years. I suspect at that point there will be other challenges to operating your 150+ year old ICE car on public roads. Provided you're still here. 😉

Already $1650 with 7 days to go!!

Honestly, I have no idea!!

I think that info should be posted to the resource page! For me personally I will never remember what thread I saw that in when I want to find it later and I doubt I could craft a Google search to find it either

I suspect the internal specs are the same but the larger one is going to flow better and have more filter media

Another thought is front castor and camber setups. This might be a challenge for a street driven car but I would expect alignment settings would help with the oversteer

Quick steering knuckles are shorter steering arms on the bottom of the front struts. They connect to the tie rods on the steering rack. The shorter length means steering inputs cause more tire movement for the same input versus stock knuckles

LSD is probably the biggest thing to help with traction

I think I would consider adding a trailer hitch and a small enclosed utility trailer. Haul the tires, a floor jack, spare fluids a few tools in the trailer. I can't help with the tires. Do you have a limited slip differential?

Is it unique to 70?

If they open into the cowl area then mud daubers is a possibility

I was going to reuse mine...

Where does the bottom of the A pillar open to? The hollow area where the door hinges bolt? The hollow area where the fresh air vents connect the is the upper support under the fenders?

The other aspect is the article is I think 3 years old. A lot can change in 3 years

I read this recently. I had no idea Daniel Stern was such an expert... https://jalopnik.com/why-most-led-headlight-upgrades-dont-really-work-an-ex-1843070472

Mud daubers? 🙂

I don't believe so

If I remember right I ran the mixture nuts all the way up and used the needle to center the jet...

Only if it wrong. If the float level is right then don't change it. I also agree, I still think there is a spark issue!

That is quite the stack of, I suppose, Datsun hardware back there in sorters!!

Is this not them? https://www.facebook.com/JIMC123/

I hadn't heard!!! That is very disappointing! I was planning on calling them soon... 😞

A belt sander with a course belt would work to reshape a donor glass

I wouldn't think temp rating would be a huge problem . Max temp is probably 225°F or so. After that it's overheated anyway

Well your lash pad might not be sitting deeper. If you went to thicker lash pads the wear surface would be taller compared to the bottom surface. So even if it sits on the valve the same way it would appear that its not sitting as deep. Did that make sense?