Patcon

Are you going to use the stock location? What are your thoughts on a cover?

I bought a rebuild kit from Harmon. I have it but yet to start it up yet, but if I had I had to do it over again I would let Harmon build it. Somebody else on the forum has dealt with them too.

It certainly doesn't feel like 15 years!!!

It was nice equipment back then and arguably might be better quality then you can buy now

My point was the flat tops will raise the compression and might make it impossible to pass Smog. I don't think Nissan would have added dish pistons to lower the compression for emissions if they could have run flat tops

Zcar depot shows flat tops with valve relief. I don't know it those will play nice with the stock EFI. Maybe someone else can speak to that. I would try to ask them if they can get a dished piston. You could probably also mill the flat tops some if you needed to to lower the compression. As long as you don't make the crowns too thin...

I agree with the others on the wall condition. Vertical lines would concern me. Possible ring scratches or skirt dragging. Also the mottling at the top of the cylinders concerns me. Not really sure what that is, possible corrosion damage? I absolutely agree with Racer, that its hard to tell what the engine really needs with out Mic'ing it. Also be careful on grinding the crank. I had a hard time finding over sized bearings on a L20 build

Well your first issue in my mind is you need to stick with stock efi. That rules out most mods. You can probably tinker with the setup but the problem comes in when you cant tune the system for a deviation. Also you would be searching for dished not domed pistons. To really determine the bore condition you would need a way to measure bore ID. 3 places down the bore. Side to side and front to back. If there's no lip at the top of the bore you might could just hone if your measurements are good. But you might hone and then have to bore and re-hone. It sounds like these shops are approaching this from past experience and the highest percentage of success. As for the crank, if it mic's out, is round and looks good, a light polish would be better than grinding. It's easier (maybe lazy) of the shop to bore and grind. The upside for them is they know for certain the crank is true and round. They also know the bores are all true, cylindrical, straight, consistent and without taper. All good things. It also takes some time to do all the checking versus just chucking it uo and punching it out. These old Nissan blocks were made out of really good metal and these shops may not have a lot of experience with how well they hold up

So $1200 plus rubber if the tires are any good. If the tires are shot, then I would consider $600 a "so so" price

What does a new set cost? They'll need some serious elbow grease!

I do not believe a replacement tube is available. Although if you don't destroy the nuts on the ends of the tube you might could refabricate the tube itself with the older fasteners.

I agree, but overall we are fortunate to that resource at all

I don't recall it being asked before... I would be careful removing the tunnel. The car would have to be well braced if you are going to remove the tunnel. It is a very critical dimension holder in the frame. What don't you like about the 280z tunnel?

That aught to be a quiet car with all that sound mat! I love the idea of a quiet Z...

I will enjoy watching the progress . Glad its here. I believe the 06 still has the external slave cylinder, which is good. I would think ABS could be challenging. 4 tone rings, wire, controls & logic... Car should be a lot of fun with that motor and 6 speeds. We had a 350z for a while. It was a lot of fun. Pretty quick and much heavier than a 280z. 400-800#s depending on the 350...

Hate it on Covid. Ive had it a couple of times. First time was the worst. Several members have had vibrations from less than perfect spacers

How did you handle F/R bias? Are you still running stock drums in the rear?

Aren't you running wheel spacers up front?

Those really aren't frame rails in my mind. I mean they are, but they aren't. They're really more like floor reinforcements or floor braces. The frame rails in my mind run from the firewall to the radiator support. Depends what's rotted... Floor supports dont scare me too much. I have driven some Zs with no floor boards pretty hard I mean real Flintstone cars! Rotted front frame rails is totally different. Your front steering rack, suspension, motor all bolts to that! Especially the section that tends to rust first. I personally prefer to choose the direction of my car versus the rust choosing it for me 😉

Pretty car. I agree the peak has settled some. I would think it's BaT or the other sites. Not both. I might put it on Hemmings or Hagerty for a while. See what it does. I guess the real risk is you might leave money on the table because you don't know what it might bring on BaT...

I guess if the block is good, then the oil pan and valve cover would have some value. I don't really know...

I am glad it seems much better

My phone didn't ring!!!

That was my first thought. I have used some Sherco wire and it has a significantly larger OD than the factory wire. What I don't know is whether modern striped automotive wire has a smaller OD than the "marine" stuff gauge for gauge

That's a pretty low number car. I am generally opposed to parting these cars out, but there are always exceptions to that. Being stored in a field is really hard on the underside of the car! I don't think I would try to start it. I might oil the cylinders and see if it will bar over but starting takes a lot more effort and it will most likely need a rebuild no matter what. The upside is a great amount of the needed metal to restore the underneath has become available in the last few years and more is available every day.