Everything posted by Patcon
- Tacoma blast cabinet
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240z Front turn Signal weak points
Yes, I believe I did. Let me look around
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Little Shop trick to share. Installing Sun Visors and interior mirror
Now you tell me!
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280z water **** removal sequence
https://zcardepot.com/search?q=Heater+hose&type=product#
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Caswell Plating
My plating tank was pretty cloudy so Shelley and I filtered it today I have no idea what this is, I filtered out. My wife thinks it just garbage. She's a chemist. I have no idea. I did plate today but it took a while to get acceptable results. Lot's of brightener. I'm still not pleased with all of it. I bought a 40 Amp power supply last week because my 10Amp just isn't enough sometime. The problem with the 40 Amp power supply is it has no resolution a lot amperages. So for little things I still have to use the 10 amp power supply. I have new zinc anodes coming this week. So I will tweak the tank some more. I tried to plate a carb water bypass tube today. It didn't do right. I probably need a different shaped tank to plate some of these long narrow parts
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280z DASHBOARD REMOVAL / UPGRADE
For brighter, most people go LED but that can add other complications...
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280z DASHBOARD REMOVAL / UPGRADE
I believe there are four bolts holding the steering column up. The dash is pinched between the steering coulumn and a bracket welded to the firewall. If the column doesn't flop around, its not loose yet
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I agree the inside of the cups are pretty crusty on some of those. But my thinking was only the perimeter shows after you put the plastic inner cup in. So only the edge of the cup needs to turn out nice...
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
@inline6 I dont remember, what did you end up doing for carpet?
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
Yes, surprisingly they are magnetic
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
0.016" approx thick. They have two small tabs bent 90d on the top edge
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1970 Wiring Diagram
I did finally get the diagram to plot. Took a number of different attempts and tactics
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I have the precision door weatherstrips. I have had them for probably 10 years. I tried one of them today. That's gonna be a no go!!! I did eventually slam the door hard enough to get it to latch but it still won't sit flush to car. I will order the S30 weatherstrips this weekend
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I started on one of the horns today, now that the blast cabinet is back up and running Started here. I believe these are Lily's original horns Blasted Split open The little center plate appears to be aluminum This plate I think was chromed but I will zinc it clear The other side
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I rekeyed the glove box the lock today. I two to choose from. I believe the one with the plastic coated ears is from a later car but the key I am using wouldn't fit in the older lock. Ground the pin down and drove it out Exploded view It was a little bit of a pain to key but I got it done and reassembled
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I also worked on sun visors last week because I wanted to chrome the bars they pivot on Disassembly The mirror end piece will just pull out, but getting a grip on it without marking it up is tough Screws for the visor to roof Screws that tighten the sun visor pivot Corner brackets
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I got a new battery last weekend for Lily and a new battery frame I pulled together some pieces that need to be chromed. We'll see what these parts cost to get chromed There is a company in Australia that can make keys from codes or pictures. I got a price of about $40 for 2 new keys plus freight. On a whim I called my local locksmith to see if they could cut a key from a code. He could. so I took some Nissan blanks I had and he cut me two keys for like $22 I wanted to get a new key and be sure when I keyed them that the new key would work the rekeyed locks. It's good I did becoaul the new key wouldn't work the locked I already rekeyed. I also stripped a door latch for plating I also reworked the floor vents with new foam. 2mm foam on the flaps and some 6mm foam around the edges After the glue set, I trimmed these back
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
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Tacoma blast cabinet
So I have a Harbor Freight blast cabinet. It is probably 15 years old or older. I have wanted to do the Tacoma Company upgrades to it for years but I've never pulled the trigger because the timing was always bad. I finally bought the pieces last month. https://www.tacomacompany.com/ The original cabinet Cut the bars out from under the frame New funnel adapter on bottom of the cabinet Drilled a hole in the left leg for a new air regulator Two new holes for the air and media for the gun Regulator Cut the lower shelf back New box that covers the air intake on the left side of the cabinet Air flow is reversed in this new setup I had to silicone the screws at the glove cuffs because the static from the cabinet would shock the fool out of you Cut the spring steel screen down and wrapped it with metal screening to prevent little parts falling down in the cabinet Added a foot pedal for the cabinet versus a hand trigger New gloves inside and a fresh piece of glass I have a switch on top that cuts the LED's on in the cabinet and start a vacuum that sits outside the shop door I finally got the air all hooked up today. It's a totally different cabinet now!! I can see and it cuts really quickly. I have some new Bufferfly screws for a quick change glass setup
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
- 1970 Wiring Diagram
I wanted to plot the pdf larger but I couldn't get it to let me select a different paper size. Is there a way on your end to make it where I could plot it as a "C" size drawing?- Windshield weatherstrip 280z
Warp the stainless trim. If it gets curved or warped, it is very difficult to get it to lay down right in the new weatherstrip- Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
I might. Id have to look this weekend- Windshield weatherstrip 280z
I use a razor to temove the trim. Don't try to remove it from an old weatherstrip otherwise or you will warp it- replaced clutch master, slave and slave line now clutch slipping
What year is your car? You should be able to move the clutch release lever by hand slightly. If it has a return spring, remove it first. If it's an adjustable slave cylinder, make slightly looser. Also before you do anything, you could crack open the bleed screw on the slave. If a little fluid squirts out the system is holding pressure. It should drip but not come out under pressure - 1970 Wiring Diagram
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