Patcon

I love blue BMW's; so E36. I've had a couple of E36's and E36/7's. M cars are fun! We have an 06 M roadster currently that needs a new home

What year is the M3?

Here is some more info I believe this is the before measurement This is my setup to soak it. I had a lid with a weight on it to keep the alcohol from flashing off. I turned it morning and night every day for about 9 days. It takes four rotations to get the whole part soaked. That is why it isn't totally even. Would have taken a good bit more wintergreen to have enough to fully immerse. This part was rock hard and is pretty thick. I think that is part of why it took so long. This is the after measurement It does swell it some and when it's not fully immersed it will distort the part some Before video After video

I know it has been frustrating. Some of the mechanics might have been inexperienced but if it's an internal problem, that's a little hard to diagnose unless the same mechanic works on it every time. After every other possibility is exhausted then it has to be something internal. I believe that is where your at now...unfortunately 😞

I agree with you. I think the engine has some kind of internal flaw.

He's listing the plug relative to cylinder number for the plugs laying on the fender. Not firing order

Looks great!

Alot of the six cylinder BMWs have the starter under the manifold. Its a hateful process! I totally understand the frustration

The video was interesting. Would have been nice to have them fill 5 gallons and see if that's enough volume to clear the lines. I typically fill several 5 gallon jugs with fuel. Guess I'll have to label them and use them in the order they're filled...

I am not sure how those profiles you designed would work in real life, but I think I would want a varied radius to have more resolution at lower throttle positions and less near WOT.

I have done these and had similar problems. I know not having the seal fully seated was part of the problem. Look through my build thread and see if you can find the entries. It's been too long for me to recall...

If it's arcing from the coil to ground, that suggests to me the resistance of arcing is lower than the dizzy, plug wires and plugs combined. That shouldn't be so! That is where I would start. Possibly with a meter if I knew what resistance numbers I was looking for

10Amp I have a larger one but haven't used it yet

I copied a quote from another thread. I didn't add the pictures. Your computer is fine 😉

So I have an update. My plating tank was a clear brown color. I decided to try to make a new solution using ZnCl. I mixed up a tank of that and tried to plate something without success. So I decided I would just renew my tank chemicals. I placed an order with Caswell and bought two 1.5 gallon kits. All mixed up it was about 4 gallons. My current requirements in my old solution had gotten pretty high. I assume this is from me having filtered out some of the solution components when I filtered my tank. The new solution is quite cloudy. So noticeably different. IT also plates really well. I added a cap and a half of brightener in my 4g tank and was turning out pretty nice plate at 0.17-0.19 A/squ in. I also added several rinse buckets with a gallon of distilled in each. One after the degreaser One after the pickle One after the plating tank and one after the blue chromate. I also added heaters in both chromate tanks set to about 80d F

Madkaw used: Industrial Plating Inc Lafayette Indiana . This is a pic they sent so I haven’t seen the stuff in person . Here’s a pic of what I sent them from my last plater

Just slightly over 1/8"

It's good you qualified that statement!

There are a couple of challenges with this method. Wintergreen oil is expensive! Buy the commercial version not the essential oil version. Also you have to use a lidded container to prevent tthe alcohol from flashing off. The rubber boots are marginally larger than the petrified version. It's possible they're swollen or maybe they were originally that size and shrunken with age. Difficult to know... But so far so good.

I missed that. I guess it was Obvious to everyone else ...😁

Also, what is the fuel system? Flat tops? Round Top SU's?

So as an update. I tried softening the rubber caps that go to the fuel sender. I tried silicone spray like Mark suggested. Nothing... Now these were rock hard, we were afraid to flex them for fear of breaking them. I wish I had made a video... So I tried Wintergreen oil but instead of water and heating them I used denatured alcohol 1:1. I heated the rubber parts slightly with a heat gun. Let soak overnight. AMAZING!! They were tremendously soft. I mean really good. It has been a week since I pulled them out and they are still nice and soft. I ordered some more oil because I needed more volume. I am going to try it on Cody's Goon's filler neck. Sort of an unobtainium piece...

Another of SteveJ's tricks is to spray compressed air upside down onto the ignition module when it acts up to cool it. If the problem goes away that tends to narrow the problem down to that module. As they age they can act up when they get hot.

I'm not sure what the original finish was on these screws Rivet is basically a 3/32 rivet. The box I have of them is unmarked

I think you're starting with the right idea. Insure it at a high level and it should get well taken care of