Patcon

Thanks, Jim I'm trying to be more diligent about getting something done every week. Would like to have a runner this summer. That's a pretty big hill to climb. We'll see...

I have used a number of CompCams cams and never had an issue. @Diseazdmight have a better opinion on lift and duration

So I did go ahead and pop this one. I used a towel just in case it wanted to go into multiple pieces. It broke pretty clean I will try to glue it up later. I didn't feel like it today. Worked on the LSD brace today Got it in I also hung the ST sway bars I've had for 5 years or so I had to do some slight clearancing where it met the LSD brace. The inner fenders had foam on them as I recall. Do they have it on both edges or just one edge?

Good idea!

Thanks guys! That's pefect

Question: I have a gas flap for the filler neck. Does it go between the filler neck and the gas ring or the filler neck and the car body?

So I remembered another box in the shop... Looks like these came out of Australia in 2017... But they have their own issues. Something got spilled on them and it dissolved the lens So I figured what the heck. Some 320 -> 400 -> 800 -> 1500 paper Then the buffer I also have this box of US tail lights. The lamp housings all have the same part number. So I have 3 or 4 of each side. So I can pick the best of the lot to make a complete set. Also, here are some pictures of the felts in the bottom of the housing that John mentioned I would still like to know who have the jig for flattening tail lights flanges. @siteunseen Come on dude, where's the Google Fu?

Ernest, How are your pictures stored? I would be interested in getting a copy of them, if that's doable. I lost all of my original pictures from disassembly and that makes reassembly more challenging! I have cd's we could burn, sd cards or a flash drive. C

I have some 2 part jb weld epoxy that is very clear when cured. It will probably be my product to try. I may give it a shot tomorrow while cooking a brisket .

28d F Sitting In an elevated tree stand in 10 mph winds. Pretty cool for a southern boy!

Or I could repair these and drop them in and buy newer ones later if it bothers me. But I could drive the car sooner using these...

I assume they are using the fuel to cool the diff. Liquid to liquid intercooler. Seems an interesting choice but I'm sure some engineer worked it out

I bought the firewall pad from Zcardepot. I haven't looked at it very close yet, but it looks like it will work ok. I have been working on the mounting cap screws. Some are missing and some are damaged. I bought a bottom tap so I could chase the threads. Then I forced some of the damaged caps out and pulled new SS acorn nuts using a bolt I found in the random bolt drawer So I have an issue with one of the JDM tail lights! I was trying to figure out why there was grunge in the turn signal section of the lens. Well this might do it! So I need to figure out what to do. I thought about just snapping the yellow section of the lens off and re-epoxying it. My concern is I don't want to end up with 5 or 6 pieces. I am not sure I can get the seam clean enough to glue with breaking it off. I thought about trying to cut a seam at the clear lens but don't want to lose the blade thickness. I have a commercial plastic welder but I think that will just make a mess. I would hate to have to scrap these tail lights and start over. I don't think the horizontal joint will be very noticeable because of the chrome trim bar. Ideas??

Somebody made a jig recently to flatten warped tail lights. Does anyone know where that thread is?

Very nice!

How is the firewall pad mounted? Some metal tabs and a couple of screws? No adhesive??

You can try a piece of ss cable chucked up in a drill to run into the feed lines to clean them out. I am all for saving an old tank.

Is the gas smell still an issue?

I dont know whether the patient is a 240, 260 or 280 but apparently the kick panel was a tall panel that extended from the cowl all the way to the bottom of the rocker panel. I dont know if the KF panel is in addition to that layer or a replacement for the bottom section of that panel but it is not the complete panel

Come on librarian, link it up and get you a tumbler of ice!

We made a little more progress. The new chain didn't have 2 shiny links. So we used the old one and marked it ourselves. We used clay and checked the clearance. It wasn't close at all. Barely touched it. We then got the head torqued down and the guides in. The long straight guide was touching the inside of the cylinder head pretty good but we got the bolt in regardless. We're trying to find timing cover bolts now. Who knows what we did with the originals! Timing cover cover gaskets are also a real issue. The timing set was correct for the L20 but the gaskets weren't. Fortunately the gasket set I bought originally for the motor had the correct gaskets. I also need to order a valve cover gasket. We might button it up next weekend. We'll see

We need to find the old thread and link it in here. So everyone can review with their favorite beverage of choice

280z? If it is, then this appears to be the relevant image. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/instrument-dash-side It would appear that stamping goes all the way from the A pillar to the bottom of the rocker panel

I doubt filing is necessary. Pins and wafers are normally plug & play

That is what Al says is in the engine. Unless you've verified all of this then it may or may not be there. Ultimately, I suspect there is an internal issue causing your fouling on #4. I'm not really sure what it could be but I think if it were induction or ignition related we would have solved it already.