Patcon

Looks great! Paint makes such a difference!

Take a legth of hose and use it like a stethoscope, move it around and see if you can pin point the noise. You may here it good at the intake opening but see if you can here it somewhere else. Like around the manifold or injectors

Is there something in the tach that would reduce the current by 90%? Too much resistance on the loop or a bad component on the board?

Also, were you splitting current between two tachs or just the 510?

Does the 240 current sensing tach only have one loop out the back of the tach? Edit: It does so that is not the issue. I was wondering if a loop had been removed because of the hacked wiring, but that's not the case. I sent an email off to Hamp's

I thought a shop like that might be the next logical step. Our guest house is empty again, so we're gonna get that cleaned up. Maybe you and SWMBO could come up for a visit when we get to that point...

So we worked on the motor some more today. We started by checking end play float. We could force 2 thousandths of play be we really had more like 1-1 1/2. So we pulled the crank back out and we checked the thrust bearing thicknesses. I logged all of those down. Then we did some calculating and decided we wanted to add 1 1/2 thousands. So we removed half of that from each side of the bearing plus a little. Tom Monroe calls for using 320 grit paper but I used 600 wet. 320 seemed way too course. You need to be able to keep track of which side is which. I made a sharpie mark on one side and the oil hole gives a reference point to work from. Each pad is treated as a measured location. We set the shells against each other and wrapped with a couple of turns of electrical tape. We used the granite counter as a flattening plate but a piece of glass would work good too. I made circular motions when sanding and counted revolutions. I did 10 to the side and then mic'd. Then 10 more. It took about 30 to the side to take off 0.00075". After we reassembled we had 2 thousands that would indicate with no pressure applied. We could force it up near 3 thousands. While we had the crank out we heated the timing gear in the oven and installed it on the crank. Then we put rings on the pistons and installed them. The pistons are 7 thousands proud at TDC. Off my rough calculations we will be about 10.35:1 compression. So we may have to keep the timing down until we upgrade the head and cam. Now we need to get the timing cover cleaned and then work on the rest of it. I couldn't really turn the crank by hand before without the pistons, just the crank. I can now turn the whole assembly, pistons and all by hand. It's tough but doable

@Captain Obvious Any thoughts?

That would have been my thought too. When I tried it on the car a couple of years ago, I couldn't get it to respond at all. I was attempting to run it off a ZX type module dizzy. It is of course possible, I had it wired improperly

@heyitsrama thanks for that. I was thinking of the gear end play. I suspect there is nothing for me to check with the baulk ring to gear clearance because they are all new. Don't know on the front counter shaft

We need to double check the internal clearance in the 5 speed. Can someone clarify exactly where we need to measure?

What is it?

I was think a roll pin located that gear. Do you have some pictures?

I am seeing some prices coming down in real estate, salvage cars and cars in general. I think this reflects higher interest rates and lower demand. Almost 50k is still a good price for a Z car.

Datsun 510 guys sometimes use the front ZX struts as a cheap upgrade

It does spin but the fit at the thrust bearing is very snug. I will set up an indicator...

We worked on the motor some more last weekend Checked ring gaps All the studs in We checked all the clearances with indicators and verified with plastigage Right now the thrust bearing is pretty tight. I'm not sure we have any clearance. I think we're looking for 0.05 mm. We'll see... @Captain Obvious

So what changed?

I know the BMW's I have worked on have valve tap when they have sat for months. It goes away with a little light driving

Is it possible the water jackets are contaminated now and that is throwing the test?

That was my thought too. A crack somewhere else, other than the head gasket surface. Could be head or block...

Also the car you like in the video at the 2 minute mark has custom fit coil overs. Which is why they can run this really wide rim with 0 offset. It will rub the stock strut at that width. Most people run 7 in wheels on a factory suspension. I have run 245s on wheels smaller than 7 inches so there are lots of variables.

I'm hoping one day you'll paint that air dam...

And those are really wide wheels to get under stock fenders if you don't have coilovers. If you are gonna run a stretched tire look they might work but I doubt it otherwise

Steve, I have a pin puller I could ship you if you thought it would help. Acme thread, bearing, etc. Also which Induction heater are you looking at exactly? I was shopping for this just last week...