Patcon

If it doesn't even try to bump over on starter fluid, I would investigate the ignition system

I would ask Classic fab if they could make you some based on dimensions you provide

So I was gonna try and spray color this weekend but that's not gonna happen. I reset the booth and added an inflow fan like Homebuilt by Jeff had. The problem came about when building the fan. I stabbed my thumb nail with a philips bit in an impact and tore about half the nail loose! 🤬 Shelley helped me get the booth all back set The weather this weekend is also pretty rainy and humid. So I will try again next weekend. May try a test panel with the new spray gun tomorrow.

I think you might be correct on the spring. Have you checked the part number at Courtesy Nissan?

Buy the rail and replace it entirely Edit: If the bottom Is that compromised the sides are too. And potentially the flanges and welds. Clean slate...

What size are your BFG's?

I hear ya!

Oops!!!

Yes, be safe on the roads! It's evidently the most dangerous weekend of the year.

Looks like the same loop on the rear left

My machine shop had problems sourcing freeze plugs when they did the L20b in December. So it wouldn't surprise me if there was still some scarcity.

on full teardown I would have the block boiledo On full teardown I would have the block boiled clean. That should take care of the internal passages. It would help too to remove the galley plugs for cleaning. Either replace them or drill and tap like we did on Cody's L20b

I believe it's all blocked now. I will unwrap it and check-sand it. Then on to rebuilding the booth and getting ready for color

All gone

I think you try again before more teardown. Might be informative

Guide coat this afternoon This is what it looks like when you block. The dark spots are low and still need some work to be smooth

I don't think that not balancing is going to cause a failure. I just think it makes the motor rev smoother. I remember when my rear view mirror would vibrate when I really spooled up my Z. That was way back when I had one that ran...😉

That seems steep for a bore and hone. Maybe somebody else can chime in on that. I think extra displacement is always good! Having trouble following the math though

How much are the 87's? What is leadtime? Can you get you block punched out the extra ½?

I have adjusted several r&p racks over the years. You do have to be careful of overtightening. A slow speed test drive will tell you if it's too tight. It is also true center rack slop is normally visible under the hood. The wheel and steering shaft move but the rack ends don't...

Yes, getting past paint is a huge hurdle. It's taken me about 11 years to get here 😮

I'll try to start blocking this weekend. We'll see how it blocks out. If it blocks out ok, it could be yellow in 3 weeks or so probably

🤣O my!!! That's a "Rust eaze" commercial!

The rack has an adjustment that takes play out of the rack and pinion. You have to be careful though, overtightening can cause problems when off center because the middle section tends to wear more than the edges of lock.

This epoxy is a sandable primer so I wasn't too worried about the fisheyes. I mostly filled them in on subsequent passes but no I didn't shoot a test panel. The car will be bright yellow when done