Patcon

Looks like the same loop on the rear left

My machine shop had problems sourcing freeze plugs when they did the L20b in December. So it wouldn't surprise me if there was still some scarcity.

on full teardown I would have the block boiledo On full teardown I would have the block boiled clean. That should take care of the internal passages. It would help too to remove the galley plugs for cleaning. Either replace them or drill and tap like we did on Cody's L20b

I believe it's all blocked now. I will unwrap it and check-sand it. Then on to rebuilding the booth and getting ready for color

All gone

I think you try again before more teardown. Might be informative

Guide coat this afternoon This is what it looks like when you block. The dark spots are low and still need some work to be smooth

I don't think that not balancing is going to cause a failure. I just think it makes the motor rev smoother. I remember when my rear view mirror would vibrate when I really spooled up my Z. That was way back when I had one that ran...😉

That seems steep for a bore and hone. Maybe somebody else can chime in on that. I think extra displacement is always good! Having trouble following the math though

How much are the 87's? What is leadtime? Can you get you block punched out the extra ½?

I have adjusted several r&p racks over the years. You do have to be careful of overtightening. A slow speed test drive will tell you if it's too tight. It is also true center rack slop is normally visible under the hood. The wheel and steering shaft move but the rack ends don't...

Yes, getting past paint is a huge hurdle. It's taken me about 11 years to get here 😮

I'll try to start blocking this weekend. We'll see how it blocks out. If it blocks out ok, it could be yellow in 3 weeks or so probably

🤣O my!!! That's a "Rust eaze" commercial!

The rack has an adjustment that takes play out of the rack and pinion. You have to be careful though, overtightening can cause problems when off center because the middle section tends to wear more than the edges of lock.

This epoxy is a sandable primer so I wasn't too worried about the fisheyes. I mostly filled them in on subsequent passes but no I didn't shoot a test panel. The car will be bright yellow when done

Thanks, trying to get motivated

Stacked some high build right before supper. Hopefully it will block out pretty close without needing too much more work

So I finally got the car sanded down as far as I was willing to go. I taped it all up over the last week or so and reset the booth. Then shot some SPI white epoxy over that. It's a little different than what I am familiar with. It will fish eye if you lay the first coat on too heavy. Being white it can be hard to get full hiding coverage. I may stack some high build tomorrow. I've got 7 days to coat. We'll see...

I always like to source pistons before machine work for this very reason...

Pretty rusty! I'm not sure it's a true "Scarab"...

Acid for the win. I wonder if it causes any issues with the aluminum pistons?

Pistons normally come with wrist pins either press in or fully floating. If they're press in you should have the machine shop install the rods. They have a special oven to heat the rod so the pin presses on easily

Haven't seen him around in a long time...

Im with Jonbill, open the diff up for a look