Patcon

Chas, I lnew I liked you for a reason! Thats alot of beer!!!

I got 4 coats of high build layed down. It's always amazing how bad it looks after you shoot a mono color shiny coat on it. All of a sudden there's flaws everywhere! I will use a little spot glaze on the bigger flaws, and then I will start guide coating. It will probably need another round of high build after blocking it down.

Look up my caswell thread Here it is, I can't do some of this on my phone...

They may make an exception for you Jim. Just because you're you 😉

That's too bad, but not surprising. It is a big risk for a plater to take on this hobby type plating. If the metal isn't clean you could contaminate his tanks. Which would be very expensive to correct and if the plating doesn't look good, then the customer is unhappy on a really low profit job. I suspect we will continue to have fewer options for platers. You might want to post this info in the "platers" thread so its all in one place

@pogden @Jeff G 78

I hate to say thats s parts cut, but that might be a parts car. At least its reasonably Priced. There looks to be a $1000 worth of parts there

Crack heads!!!!

$9,700 now !!!!

So Ive roughed out the rear end of the car I hope to spray some high build on it tomorrow

Alan is very knowledgeable about the history of these cars and is very passionate about it. It's nice to have that expertise on the forum

That was my understanding too. You could richen the whole range with a potentiometer but its highly unlikely to be good all across the range

Why did you go to pertronix from the matchbox?

@Terrapin Z

I dont think I have an original source. I would base that on people in the past who have tried to modify but can't get fueling correct. Vendors, especially cam vendors have also expressed similar sentiments. Only supplying relatively mild cams for the factory efi. The fuel mapping is so primitive. When the modifications require more fuel it's hard to provide, especially if the required fuel is not even across the board.

Be careful with modifications on the factory EFI. It doesn't tolerate that well. I agree with cleaning it up and regasketing it

58k That motors not even broken in good yet!

I dont really know about the scissor lift @SteveJ Would be a better person to ask

I have found that most shops dont want to paint classic cars. Almost all of them. The main stream shops that will, end up regretting it in the end. Shops that do classic cars many times specialize in mustangs or mopar or whatever. That leaves our Japanese tin out on the cold. Also these cars are thin and not as forgiving as beating on a 50s or 60s American car. An adjuster might be able to provide good leads. You could also go talk to some auto body supply shops ( finishmaster, S-W auto, etc) If you can pull the store manager aside and get a discreet recommendation preferably without witnesses ( you will get better honesty this way without the risk of offending customers) that would be my preferred method. I have also found that the paint job can take 2, 3 or 4x's longer than originally quoted. Collectively known as " paint jail"...

That was a bargain at free, no matter when. Thats a $2000 car now! 😉

When I unplug harnesses, I use painters tape. Forst connection gets tagged "A" on both side then so on. Double letters after 26 Have you lined up a paint shop yet? If not, I wouldn't start disassembly just yet

Typically if they are flood damaged, they say "water flood". Fresh water only worries me as far as the interior stinking or the motor full of water. Salt water is a whole other thing!

Good to see you around Jerry!

Did you see this one? https://www.copart.com/lot/62323571 Look at the hood!! If the hood looks like that, you know what the rest of the car looks like. $5,900! For a really rusty 78...

If you add a "factory" style AC unit, no one will know if you dont tell them, because there are no existing build sheets. AC in the early cars was a dealer add on, as mentioned but they all are the same unit. The only problem is they might not cool well enough for you on TX. Somebody else might be able to chime in on that. One of my earlier cars had seats like that, I don't know if that was a dealer ad on or not. Since there are no build sheets, you have some freedom with the car as long as you stay in factory style things. I never worry too much about modification as long as they are easily reversible