Patcon

If you add a "factory" style AC unit, no one will know if you dont tell them, because there are no existing build sheets. AC in the early cars was a dealer add on, as mentioned but they all are the same unit. The only problem is they might not cool well enough for you on TX. Somebody else might be able to chime in on that. One of my earlier cars had seats like that, I don't know if that was a dealer ad on or not. Since there are no build sheets, you have some freedom with the car as long as you stay in factory style things. I never worry too much about modification as long as they are easily reversible

Did you do a compression check before disassembling?

Have to be careful about dating that "princess" siteunseen! 😉

Yes, try a crush washer

I wondered if you could move the flex lines up to each side of the switch along with the brake calipers. Put a block of wood in the caliper to prevent blowing the pistons out. then see if they both build pressure there

I not sure that would wash the title. It would still probably be salvage The rules have changed a lot in the last few years. This is getting harder to do

$4600 on approval Probably a good price if its not too rusty

I think I might also. Make sure all the passages are clear

So maybe we can shift gears so to speak. Fully charge the battery. Take the belts off and go for a quick drive! If the noise is gone it's belt driven. If it remains we can rule out belt driven items I wouldn't go more than a couple hundred yards. Just enough to get to the speeds you here the noise at It will overheat if you run it too long!!

Currently $4250 Crosses the block in about 40 minutes. Cant watch it live, in the deer stand

In many states that sticker could be removed, but the title would be branded salvage. Somebody aught to watch the live auction. I suspect the final price will surprise you

With the spring and rubber removed, the slider moves freely. When plated in a tumbler, it moves around enough to plate most of it

Me either 🙂

If the lines from the switch to the caliper are good on both sides, then move upstream. I would suspect the switch next

I looked at that car Shipping would be problematic because of all the parts and the additional vin isn't great, bit if your not too far away it could be good. Although the last few wrecked Zs I've watched or bid on have gone for ridiculous money

So the restriction could be anywhere from the switch to the caliper. You might want to disconnect lines until you find the restriction. You could use air like Zed suggested, just dont blow brake fluid all over your paint. Get spills up quickly

I think for starters, I would pump the brakes a little slower. That allows the fluid to flow without as much vacuum on the system. I might also drop back to the tried and true bleeding method if possible and remove the variables of the speed bleeders

I assume these are 280zx parts then?

@One Way John, Would any of these three work for you. Freshly plated but they had some corrosion before they were plated

Good for you! Congrats also 🙂

Does the ZX still have a traditional water valve? If so I would guess the pressure reducer was installed to reduce the tendency for leaks in the passenger floor board from the heater valve

If the pedal goes to the floor and the warning light comes on, then only one circuit is building pressure, regardless of the booster. So that should leave only a couple of options. Air in the front circuit: master, lines or calipers Or A bad master cylinder New parts doesn't mean they're good parts...

I'm not sure the discrepancy isn't from how you measure the booster. If you measure the main chamber its 6" When you measure out to the outside band, its closer to 7". I would still contact a rebuilder. Doesn't matter what size it is. As long as they have parts for it

Where did you clip that?

@Zup Good to see you around! I was just wondering how you were doing.