Everything posted by Patcon
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
It looks like they replaced the dog legs and didn't check the door fit while they did it
- 1978 280z: Tail Lights, Dash Lights, and Side Markers not coming on/not working
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spray guns
Some possibilities https://devilbissclub.com/spray-guns/devilbiss-gti-pro-lite-without-cup-regulator/ https://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products/prolite/prolite-gravity.aspx https://www.amazon.com/Tekna-703567-1-2mm-1-3mm-ProLite/dp/B006JYNEEK/ref=asc_df_B006JYNEEK?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80882941400083&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468471655&psc=1
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Yes, basically 😉 The gun I'm using has been used for all sorts of stuff. Its older and can be difficult to clean. I thought I might get some better atomization and less overspray with a better gun. Since overspray is really just money floating down wind. I spent about $800 on paint last week. That was some basecoat, clear, some catalyst for a primer and a quart of epoxy primer. I'm using Nason paints, so a budget line of paints. Not top shelf. I already had sealer and high build primer. Things are drastically more expensive this year!
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78 280Z rear hatch nylon guide removal
John, Let me look around
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spray guns
As a point of reference, I have an older Devilbiss set that has multiple tips. I probably paid in the $180s for it. I think its probably low $200s now. I suspect there is a noticeable step up to a good gun if you've sprayed enough. Starts to be justified when paint is getting this expensive. I would use it strictly for basecoat / clearcoat. Use my older gun for primer
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spray guns
Having bought some more paint recently at eye watering prices, I am considering getting a pro level gun. Tried to do some googling but kept finding the same useless info. Does anyone have any recommendations? Sata, Iwata, DeVilbiss, Tekna, etc...
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78 280Z rear hatch nylon guide removal
I believe on a 280z they have a different shape. Thats why I wanted the picture...
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Got my crew working this morning, then sort of took a half day off I shot some epoxy over the bare metal areas and then stacked some high build until the gun started acting up
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78 280Z rear hatch nylon guide removal
Take a picture of what you've got
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New Oil Pump Installed, now hearing noise from engine?
So it only makes noise when the drivetrain is turning? Not when you rev it up. If it were me, I would support the rear on jack stands and chock the front wheels securely, then spin the drivetrain up and see if I could locate the noise. A helper to drive would be good or a friend with a dyno might be good too.
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
In the time I've had it, I've never had spitting or moisture when I'm painting. Even in our really humid summers
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
@DC871F I have a 50 gallon Ingersol rand outside my shop. So cold air in the winter, not so much in the summer. It comes through the wall and goes into about three loops of 3/4" copper line. Then it hits a pressure regulator and a water separator. The water trap has a drain plumbed through the wall that I can blow down Then it travels across the shop about 30' and hits my three stage filter dryer. It's a nice unit with desiccant beads but it has gotten kind of pricey in the last few years. I only use this air source for painting and it stays shut off otherwise. When the beads turn pink, I bake them in the oven on about 200F until they're dark blue again At some point I might rework the loop to be up near the ceiling and horizontal so the loops don't hold water that way. I could also do like you did and use a condenser as a cooler. Maybe, in my spare time 😉 Hope this helps
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Fuel Line Blockage - New Cleaning method
I did this on classic beetle a couple of years ago. I bought some unjacketed steel cable. Just left the end frayed. I used brake cleaner and a drill, like you did. Glad you got it. That homemade amber can be really hard to deal with sometimes
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Wish I could sometimes! Me, myself and I are the only three working on this thing 😉 As a note, I jambed out the car with single stage but after ruminating on it for a while decided it would be easier to finish paint if I included portions of the hatch area and door jambs in my final paint. It makes it easier to tape up and not have a noticeable start / stop point
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
So brought the car inside and cleaned it up. Used some Ospho on it. Then a couple of days later I sanded it all with 320 on a DA. So I realized that I might get some over spray on the headliner, which I installed while it was on the rotisserie. Then got it wrapped up So all wrapped up and was going to spray some epoxy but the idiot running the shop forgot to check if we had some!!
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Putting in a replacement L-28
Yes, pull the correct one off the old engine
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Putting in a replacement L-28
Do you not have the thermostat housing with sufficient holes?
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Removing E-brake cable clip stuggles
You need to pull the slack to the rear
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Removing E-brake cable clip stuggles
Have you taken the hand brake hardware loose yet up by the shifter? That should allow you to feed cable out towards the wheels. decompressing the spring
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mechanical fuel pump reinstall 72Z
It can be difficult to get the pump to prime especially by hand. the internal valves will sometimes get stuck from dried gasoline in them
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Removing E-brake cable clip stuggles
Im not following Pics might help
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280z Bumper Conversion: Who Kept 280z Lower Valence?
@Av8ferg I do not have a suitable lower valence corner. I thought I had two but the only one I could locate was pretty rusty along the edge Charles
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New owner and already she's a keeper!
Looks like a great area to blast about. Be mindful of the salt air if you're very close to the channel. It is really hard on these cars
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New owner and already she's a keeper!
Nice looking car!