Patcon

That's really not very many miles for a cap. I agree, I would replace it and then just check it periodically. I also suggest buying a small journal and writing down the mileage when you install parts and perform oil changes. It surprising how fast time goes by! I will also add unique details about my car in my journal, such as what brake rotors and pads I run on my car. I have a conversion kit. That way who ever comes along behind me, knows how to source replacements...

How many miles are on that cap?

So I'm working on a few things: I have a very faint exhaust smell with only the drivers window down and the fresh air vents open. I suspected the interior panel on the hatch but I covered it with plastic and tape but I still have it. So it could be the taillights? or some other floor penetration. However I used seal n peal caulk on the tail lights and I caulked the vent hose penetrations and the filler neck penetration with black latex. So I don't know. I have considered trying to extend the exhaust tip on Sean's exhaust to get it further out behind the car... I also finally got an alignment on Friday. I have started putting a few miles on the car but didn't want to venture too far until I was sure I wouldn't damage the tires. My frame man does my alignments and he's a friend of mine. While under the car he noticed one of the sway bar bushings was missing up front and there wasn't much travel on the front springs until they hit coil bind! Like maybe 1/2" of travel... Now it's possible that I have the wrong springs on the front and back. (ie. have them swapped) but I think the car would sit funny if I had done that since the front should be significantly heavier. Although my rear springs are loose in the spring perches when the suspension is at full droop. So I need to do a little digging. I believe these are Tokico red lowering springs. On smallish bumps the springs becomes solid and it's quite noticeable Looks like this is an old issue HybridZProblems with Tokico Springs in a 240ZJust spent the better part of a week and a half doing struts, springs,sway bars and bushings on my Z. When I get the car back on the ground the front ride height is way low. The front Tokico springs aI have had these for years waiting on me to get the car on the road. If it's not an installation issue, which it's starting to appear it's not, which direction do you go? I could go with Swift springs which is the cheaper, easier route or I could go coil over and that would allow me to run a wider tire if I wanted. The cost is significantly higher too... Ideas?? PS I haven't had my weird back feed ignition issue the last dozen times I been in the car or so

Did you get it bled?

No, the oil will pour out the rear of the transmission if no drive shaft is installed when it's tilted up. I would loosen the plugs on the tranny and fill it once it's in the car. They make little hand pumps that make this really easy

I have watched some you tube videos about similar chassis, such a the FJ and the celica. The discrepancies and problems compared to factory chassis' were really bad and not insignificant

I would have loved to be there but just couldn't make it work. Maybe we can meet another time Chuck

Appears to be built with a VW Beetle suspension and drivetrain...

I don't have a lot of problems with fasteners but I do keep the humidity low in my shop. About 45%... When I plate they go in a pickling bath that sort of takes care of any mild flash. If they're visibly rusty at all, I bead blast them again. But I have parts I cleaned months or years ago that still look ready for plating after being laying a round the shop Sheet metal I treat with a product from Eastwoods

Did you mold the thin crease into the center line of the hinge? I also found the initial bending required a lot of force but then it got easier. Of course it eventually broke too...

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-152/ $71,740

I have been very pleased with Hagerty! Good coverage and cheap. I have 3 cars with them and should have a couple more in a few years. If I could have nothing but classic cars, I would

Many times the cars double in price with that much time remaining

@utey why don't you post the file to the resources section

As a follow up, I have been using this booster on the road some and it definitely works. So it seems the refurbishment was a success

That's great progress!

No you shouldn't

All the pressure plates I've messed with need the bolts to pull them down against the finger springs. I suspect the other dowel layouts are for the turbo pressure plate or a smaller pressure plate

How does power feed out to the rest of the car?

Replacing a single pod gauge is doable but a pain in the butt. Better for flexible young men like yourself. I believe you will need to remove the heater controls for access. Others should confirm that...

If I remember correctly your car doesn't over heat, it reads too high. So stop fixating on that gauge!! Hotter spark is going to make it idle and run better

About time they moved that cut off date!There can't be enough vehicles of that vintage on the roads to make a difference

If it were me I would resort to ether like ZedHead. If it fires off you know you only need fuel

Looks a lot like the dark grey they used on porsche 944's

That's a decent plan but I suspect there is some significant rust at the front of the frame rails where it meets the radiator support...