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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. Excellent! Glad it runs. I can't help with the triples
  2. I don't like the really short brake pull. I prefer about halfway. That way I know the shoes are fully released and don't drag...
  3. I believe I used a 1.5 ohm coil with no ballast resistor
  4. I agree with Yarb. My car was inop when I did the install. I set TDC and installed the dizzy. Rotated until I got the green light. Then locked down. Programmed in an initial curve Started right up. Verified actuall advance vesus the apps display with a timing light. IIRC there are multiple spots where the green light will light up as you rotate it...so you might have more than one orientation option
  5. I respect Carl greatly for the post! It's a shame his humility couldn't be reciprocated
  6. I did a little googling and couldn't find a cap either. It appears that the other caps #209 and #226 aren't interchangeable. I have the 123 ignition. I like it so far. Totally customizable spark curves. The ability to kill the car ignition with a PIN code. Some nice things I have read they don't like excessive heat, so I made a little heat shield to mount on my headers I have run the ZX dizzy in the past. Runs fine but you need to keep a spare module on hand in case the ignitor dies.
  7. I need some fresh air vents for Cody's car. I have been unable to find some in the US. All sources or leads welcome These are the vents that are inside the car under the dash. 1972 Datsun 510 or 1600
  8. No Kats, unfortunately I haven't. It does run though. I still have a lot to do on the interior and some tuning, but I'm getting there. Progress should get better when it warms up a little
  9. An IR gun would be useful too. You could measure temp at each exhaust port and see if all six are firing and burning during that 30 seconds
  10. Pretty car Kats!
  11. I don't see any "Ghetto" in that...anywhere...
  12. Patcon replied to Zed Head's topic in Open Chit Chat
    I actually dont see it that way at all. I read the original post and it came across to me as being very open minded about S30.world and what they're currently working on...
  13. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in 510
    So the tach loop is junctioned near the fuse box. Routed through the tach and rejunctioned near the fuse box. So you would like me to break that loop and see if it runs?
  14. Yes the refills that you found on Amazon do fit the OEM silver stiffeners I don't have two OEM stiffeners and I also appear to being missing the thin retainers, so I used the replacements I ordered from Summit racing
  15. Thanks to Rich for the paint recommendations for the horns! @motorman7 I did get this horn working Some wiper arms. There are two different lengths. They also have some different numbers on the back of the arms. I cleaned these up with glass beads at about 20#'s of air I did order these blades for my wipers. They seem ok but the blades flex alot when they wipe. Hopefully they won't roll over so much that the frames touch the glass Also the wiper arm nuts are plated brass! So they damage easily. I actually don't know what the finish is. It might be able to reproduce it with paint
  16. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in 510
    Cody's tach is installed but not functioning. It will need some more diagnosing when he's back in town
  17. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in 510
    Current test mule Cable installed. There is some excessive flex but we will deal with that on the finished product
  18. Patcon replied to SteveJ's topic in Electrical
    Also, I found SteveJ's recommendation of 20 ohms to be pretty close. That screw is also very sensitive!! Goes from 3ohms to Kohms very quickly. I found it need adjustments of just a few degrees. BTW I did get the my one horn working. Now for the other...
  19. I don't recall bring able to remove the radio without removing the heater control panel. On one of my cars there was a metal panel on the front of the radio behind that panel. No way it could come out without removing the panel
  20. Although I will say, the new ones are almost all stainless. Not chrome. I have stainless and they seem to scratch pretty easily. Where as the chrome is very hard and durable and is much easier to get a mirror shine on it
  21. I would fog the cylinders with your spray of choice and then use the starter until I had flow to the rockers. You could pull the dizzy, oil pump and quill and then reinstall the oil pump and spin with a custom quill on a drill through the dizzy hole. But that still won't coat the cylinder walls
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