Patcon

The wilwood does something totally different. The nissan part senses a circuit failure front or back. Slides the piston and lights the brake light. The wildwood changes brake bias front and tear which is what the part on the rear circuit is supposed to do. I wood heat the aluminum to get the caps off. The aluminum should expand faster that the steel. Good fitting impact sockets that wont expand. One I had them loose. I would try to block the ports as necessary and use air to move the piston. Failing that I would rig up a way to use a grease gun on it and see if I could force it out that way. I wonder if a PO had a circuit failure and replaced the switch on a misdiagnosis and the second switch did the same thing. You could also source a new switch with the double end caps

What flaws? Looking to learn

Congrats Cliff

Yes Not much I wouldn't try these days

I have found it very difficult to get this right. I found that my hatch seemed too long also. I just got it back into the shop. So I will try to make some pictures this weekend

I'm not sure I would have even bothered with a wet test with numbers that good

Sounds like a nice car

Something controllable. Dremel, round file, low speed die grinder

I started with a 100 amp flux core. Then, I did a gas bottle on it. Now I have a Hobart 230, that is about the right size. The only real complaint I have is the 12 current settings versus infinite adjustment. I run .023" wire with gas and normally weld on setting 1 or 2. .030 or .035 wire requires more current to puddle and that can make blow through holes. 20 ga really isn't that bad to weld but there are some super thin areas of the that are. I have also found that unlike good golf clubs, a good welding machine make a welder much better. Unlike my golf game... If you can afford it, get the better machine now and learn it versus learning how to make the wrong machine get by. I also agree, if there are gas services in your area that will fill privately owned bottles, go that route. I have a 99 year lease on my bottle so I exchange it at my local welders supply for a new bottle when its empty but no rental charges

One thing is, the hatch may need to sit slightly higher then it does now. It will be close to the line it should be on but not perfect. The hatch could go forward a little more to line up better, but I have found it very difficult to get it right all the way around. Like grannyknot said, the cars weren't perfect right off the line. I am sure well restored cars are much smoother, straighter and better gapped than factory cars were.

If you can get the hatch closed without paint damage, post a picture of how the lower edge lines up with the rear of the car Also inspect the hinge tabs that are welded to the hatch. The welds can fail and the tabs can move, making adjustment more difficult

Flux core is not the way to make this repair in my opinion. You need gas and mig with a decent duty cycle. If you're burning holes, then your current is too high or the metal is too thin. A welder with too low a duty cycle can also do this when overworked

Ron, maybe some pictures would help Pictures all the way around the hatch...

But, you couldn't get it adjusted where it looked good? I haven't found the hatch hinges to have excessive slop

Are trying to align the hatch with the shock installed?

I believe the firewall is all there is

Thanks for the complete story!

He evidently has it diagnosed and moving on with a repair

Also that actuator bar looks bent

Be advised, I have cut those before with a flat head screwdriver if they are really stuck. I would prefer a punch or a brass drift would be even better

FYI There is a record line of container ships off the west coast. Supply chain disruption is not likely to get better before the spring. No excuse for not communicating though

40k was probably a good price for that car. Clean and restored worth 2-3x that

Looks great

Norm is Zeddsaver, I believe, my mistake

Is Charlie still making floors or did he retire?