Patcon

Norm is a real business but I wouldn't deal with him if I didn't have to

How Obvious! 🤣

Looks like the man is growing a thumbnail back!

What did you find? Final cause of the problem?

If that is the question... There is a metal stack, welded to cowl substructure that keeps water from flowing into the fresh air intake. There is a flat piece of metal welded above it to prevent water from dropping into the stack

Which intake?

It really is a shame O2 sensors dont work since all modern cars use them to adjust the fuel mixture (sarc) 😣

@Captain Obvious @Zup

I dont know of anyone who makes the whole inner panel but I think the guy in the UK makes patch panels for that area. His name escapes me right now

These might work too

The factory system is very primitive. A modern efi system with closed loop fueling is miles ahead of the original system. Yes, a complete new system. Very similar to triple mikunis but triple throttle bodies instead. Look up Jenvey's

It will help if they match for sure but its forced induction so it should be less detrimental than NA. You could also adjust the port match on the inside of the exhaust as material will allow

If it won't flex enough, then that is exactly what I would do. Welding is probably a non starter and heat may or may not work

I will throw my 2 cents in here too. If you are looking a spending $4k or so on Mikunis, I would go ahead and get individual throttle body EFI for that or less. It will make the same or better power, be easier to get tuned, idle properly when cold, etc

Been missed around here...

If you look at the way the metal meets. The frame rail is three sides of the box. The engine bay side makes up the fourth side, I believe

That's a good price

Or a brass Pex piping plug from Lowe's or depot

Is clear zinc the correct finish?

The little tiny hex head bolts?

I bought all my line making material from Fedhill. Really like them

I think it will patina in with use and time

You really need flare nut wrenches to get those loose. A penetrant oil and some heat. I wouldn't hack anything if I could avoid it

#4 look to be the metal pieces that go over the rubber pockets at the hatch hinges #8 look to be generic hinge shims #17 looks to be a master cylinder reservoir cap #1,2,3 & 5 look to be dash brackets #9(edit) looks to be brake booster vacuum line #10 might be glove box light switch

or just check it with a mechanical gauge. I don't trust any of the senders