Patcon

I've been hurt for over a year. Was some better but recently regressed by about 6 months

I'm gonna miss seeing all of y'all... again! I couldn't make the trip even if I wanted too... Sitting on heating pad right now 😞

They will announce it at the end of the week banquet

Frame rails tend to rust from the inside out. So even though you can't punch through with a screw driver doesn't mean the rail is not corroded inside and no longer the correct thickness. I think at this point in my life, if I find a rail with rust holes, the whole rail will be replaced.

Yes, at some point, no more surprises

Unfortunately, that is exactly what I expected...

One of the vendors use to part out cars but I don't remember who...

I accomplished this in a similar way. Piece of steel bar into the case resting on the nut end. Hold the other end and hit as close a possible to the nut

Google works well to search the site

A soldering iron with a flattish tip will work. A small piece of stainless mesh can be embedded from the back side across the crack using heat. The metal strengthens the joint. There are hot staplers available that do a very similar thing. Hot wire staples would really beef up the repair. You might find it necessary to paint the whole thing when your done to fully conceal the joints and get an even finish. Be carefulful of using too much heat. You can distort the piece of lose the finished texture

You can probably plastic weld that from the backside and make it presentable. Several ways to do it if you're interested

True, but 9-10 yrs ago it was a much cheaper car!

Ooofffta!!!

Also the two pads are at different heights

Vacuum looks good. I wonder if you can program it out?

I agree with GK get a grinder with a flap disc and a dust mask and work your way down. If I had to guess, I would say a previous owner used bondo or fiberglass to attach them to the car. Fiberglass holds pretty good and would make them feel firmly attached

Hysteria... 😉 😉 😉

What is manifold vacuum? How is the throttle slam (for lack of a better word) controlled. On the EFI Z's it's a dash pot. How is it handled on the KA? I suspect it's all programming, but my first suspect would be air leaks

I've bought a couple of lots of die grinders off industrial auctions for $25-$30 for 8 or 10 grinders. Normally most of them work. So I have a selection now 🙂

Thanks, guys We have a local carb shop. I spoke to them today. He said he could do it next week. We'll see what he says when he actually sees it. I have the original carb too. I think I will have him check it out too, as a spare

The problem with the S54 transplant is the harnesses probably don't match model to model. I saw an M roadster run the other day for $7,100. Although that might be a fluke. $10-12 is probably more like it. Just remember the M roadster hood is eye watering expensive!!

This might be a contributing factor!! Secondaries won't even move. This is probably what happens when you don't buy a marine carb...? Fresh water boat only

I have never used a low noise type. But if it's anything like the low-noise type air ratchet I have; it wont be very quiet. Maybe the low-noise type are intended to be hearing safe I was wrong... I have more than 6 or 7 . This isn't even all of them. Sorry about the rotation. It displays properly on my computer and in an editor... This is my tool of choice for spot welds. You can tell it's been hot. It's done hundreds of welds. I find a straight one is easier to use than the angle grinder because of the better leverage This is also really nice for dressing welds. A 1" Rolok The biggest problem with it is the pads go very quickly!! They are also hard to source and about $0.35 each. I normally dress welds mostly down with the 3" cut off wheel. Then fine tune with the 1" and 2" Roloks

No, The revs drop fast and then chugs at 7 or 8 rpm before dying. I believe it is going completely into gear

or a bad day at the dentist!