Patcon

DCOE's can have a cable running across the back side to control the choke operation but many people don't even hook them up

Yes, Webers normally have an accelerator pump

I agree, I would not chemical strip or even blast them. If you decide it needs to come off, then sand it off

You were correct earlier when you said you would need to pull the transmission. Once you do, make the search like Zed Head suggested for the threads that discuss clutch plate stacked heights. You will very likely need a new collar to work with the clutch you installed. Although there is the possibility that the clutch fork is damaged. We can advise further once we see pics of the fork, pivot and clutch setup

I might strip them if it is an uncatalyzed paint. If it doesn't come off with lacquer thinner, then I would do like Grannyknot suggested

If that's the clutch at rest it won't ever work properly

Does it come off with lacquer thinner?

Great BTW I'm gonna need diy circuits for dummies!

I agree, I think it will be a collar, pressure plate height problem

I would be really interested in your fan controls and how to make one!

So with the pedal down and the clutch fork pressed like that, it still doesn't want to shift?

Are those pictures of the clutch fork with the clutch pedal NOT being pushed? If so the problem is inside the bellhousing

Too much fuel can make idle idle funky. Big injectors can make tuning difficult because the resolution is so poor on the low end. On a 350 I once tuned, I had to go to variable fuel pressure regulator to get it tuned properly

Thanks, That is the style Cody wants on his goon

Thanks, I will let you know

Get the afr closer first. Which scenario is actually running less spark advance, 1 or 2?

What chin spoiler is that?

It'll stay cleaner the higher its mounted. Shorter tubing is probably better from a functionality aspect, too

It's a nice looking piece, why hide it?

I am 99% that Z trim won't work. The 510 windshield has a lot less curvature at the bottom. Please, if it's not a major problem

Also I was looking at the stainless trim for the windshield and some of it is damaged, the bottom piece especially. Does anyone have some they would like to part with? @zKars @Terrapin Z

That's great! I will count them... On a different note, is the 4 speed reverse of a similar construction that I could pirate all 3 pieces from a spare 4 speed?

Thanks guys. Slow progress but any progress right now is good. Cody wants to try to take it to Zcon in Colorado. He'll be 21 that week

So let me tell you a little story... Some time last summer, maybe June, we had a professional uphostery shop do Cody's headliner. They did a wizz poor job! Headliner made from scratch. Fabric was too thick, seams weren't great, sloppy install. It took forever for them to do it. Then we took it back to have them work on some problem areas. A few weeks later the glue was all letting loose. Panels all starting come loose around the window frames. We just cut our loses... So I ordered a headliner off Ebay. It came in. We strung it up but it was too small. So I sent it back. I bought one from Goliners on ebay. Jim is good to deal with but again it was too small. He told me these were made off of the factory template. Instead of sending it back again, I found a source for the same fabric and Shelley reworked it for me. Now the problem with this is, we don't have a commercial sewing machine. That makes it hard to feed through the machine and prevent slippage and such. Overall though it came out good. The problem we ran into was two fold. The wagon has a piece of metal at the rear of the roof and I'm pretty sure the headliner is supposed to wrap up and over this piece of metal. When I did that with the Ebay headliners, I would lose about 5/8". Then each panel of the headliner should be 11"s but the ones I purchased had random panel sizes 10 7/8, 10 5/8, 10 1/2. All these errors compound and when you get to the front of the car, you're an 1 1/2 too short. So we remade the panels we had too and Cody and I started the install maybe 3 weeks ago. We would have to do it in short sections and it takes a while for the glue to tack up, especially when it's cold outside. I used the Weldwood contact cement. The yellow 272 stuff I believe. I will run you out if your work space isn't ventilated, but it holds really good. We started with the A & B pillars. I wrapped them over a little foam. Then when the headliner crosses them we folded a hem. We started at the back with the headliner at the metal flange glued it and stretch it to the side to tension it. Then we put all the meatl bows in and got them vertical. Lots of metal clips along the edges. We worked out way up the sides of the car. The front was also clipped and stretched. I had problems when I got to the front. I had wrinkles I couldn't get out. So I had to pull the drivers side above the front door loose and rework it to pull the excess out. To be my first headliner with bows, I think we did ok... Now that the headliners in we have started working on glass, to make it water tight. Then I can kick his car back out of my shop and move "Lily" back in We had a Datsun guy tell us one time, if we bought a headliner off Ebay we would mess with it for days, mess it up and then buy another one and take it to a professional... Pfffftt!! Nope, you can do it if you take your time and don't get in a rush and it might even be better than the professionals!!!

I don't think I know which gear you are referring to. Is it in any of these pictures?