Patcon

I will do some looking around California Datsun has one and may do it but I wouldn't deal with him for any reason https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-REBUILT-steering-rack-pinion-complete-with-new-boots-/154016286981 I did find these two. I don't know if they would handle a vintage rack or not... https://turnonesteering.com/rebuilding-services/rack-and-pinion-rebuilding/ https://www.rackdoctor.net/

I won't tell!

Griots makes good stuff. They are a little proud of it...

I dont really have recommendations on tires because size dictates the options. There are several threads about tire selection. The bigger the contact patch, the higher the grip. Even when turning

Yes, I call that scrubbing. Struts, fender lips or an air dam if you have one. If they dont scrub then I would run as wide as I could

There maybe be part numbers either on the ends of the caps or on the center yoke

Do they scrub?

That's good progress!

They also sell cut a gasket material at most parts stores

How will you retain the bearing? Interference fit?

Eiji at Datsun spirit might be able to help

If the car will start without the chokes, then the main Butterflies is all you really have to have. Sometimes the downdrafts need the chokes but I believe they also have an accelerator pump which could be used instead of a choke

They are brass and easily damaged

Does it have main butterflies further down?

Its very hard to tell by looking at these pictures if it has had collision damage or not. Take a friend with you. Have them drive the car slowly and see if it drives straight. Rear wheels behind the front wheels or at an angle. If I were you, I would look at every car you have a chance too that meets the budget. Much fewer options for you then for us in the states

And the fuel nozzle is clear all the way up? If everything is clear and you still have the lean condition on only one carb then you probably have an air leak somewhere on the lean carb or intake manifold

If the back one runs properly or slightly rich and the front one doesn't it's not the needles

Is that an MN head? Any pics from the sides?

I would go back through these one by one. If fuel is coming off the rail port properly. It has to be at one of the locations. Check the banjo bolt for trash Check the needle valve for trash Check the bottom of the float bowl for debris that could clog the drain Check the jet line for a crimp or possible damage or a flap of rubber or trash blocking flow Check at the bottom of the jet for trash Be methodical, you'll find it

Also if all of the above are correct... It must be one of the following: the bajo bolt filter screens Needle valve Outlet in the bottom of the float boal Jet line or a blockage in the Jet

Needle valve is what rides on the float to fill the float bowl... Jet line was replace with what type of line?

It can only be a few things. The piston doesn't rise properly (needle dragging of the piston is bound up somehow The needle valve is restricting fuel A fuel restriction between the carb and the fuel rail Possible the jet flex line is damaged internally

Pretty car I dont think I would change a thing

I use meguiars products. They have a selection of sheens available. I prefer the natural look products. I agree no silicone and I avoid armor all now

Direction... If you replace it, you have to source the part - done Cut it off realign, weld, grind and limit distortion If you repair it, you have to pull, beat and reshape it back to where it should be but all the metal is there in the close to proper amounts. One concern is if the car took that big of a shot then the whole side of the engine bay could be off. Then you cut and patch it but the repaired section is still not in the right place. My car was put on a frame rack and needed some significant pulling to get back to where it needed to be