Patcon
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Everything posted by Patcon
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$27k for a sub 1000# car is a really good price!!!
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Rough costs for a lot of parts like that?
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Pretty car. I like that
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Have you touched base with Mike or pm'd him. He might have the solution or be able to push you in the right direction
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I agree with Zed, if there's no fluid on the ground it has to be going around the MC seals. The booster just does it faster. You need to see if its going into the booster. Does it consume fluid?
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Very close Chris. although I don't think it sold $1,957,507
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Does it have stock booster size. When its running, if you pump it quickly, it wont catch higher?
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So it doesn't come up if you pump it?? That was my first thought too
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See, I thought I had a problem because I have SO many Datsun parts... I am so relieved now!
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Maybe somebody like this?? https://www.khkgears.us/ https://www.sdp-si.com/products/Gears/Index.php https://www.ondrivesus.com/precision-gears/metric-series?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl5Xpqd6_7QIVBaGGCh3ZiAXmEAAYASAAEgICdPD_BwE I'm not sure I'm technically savy enough to find it though
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Is there another source for the idler gear? Maybe a generic catalog? It's not a very complicated piece...
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@SteveJ
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I would hesitate to say this. You may be correct but I doubt they reconfigured the F & R set up for no reason. Although I am unsure of what it is. It may be a pressure thing or it may be the front portion of the master gets better pressure if the rear circuit fails in that configuration... I have had success rebendng these lines. Just be careful and don't get in a hurry. You might want to crack the other end of the line loose and retighten so if you have a problem you know you can get it off the car and replace them
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Nice lady. She had a long interesting life...
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I agree on the quarter! The door was really junk because of all the bondo but one day soon junkie doors will be worth something too...
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That's too bad. I am going to need a reverse gear for the 5 spd for Cody's goon. He wants to rework it next week but I doubt I can figure out what I need much less have all the parts in time
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All good advice! and don't even consider buying it in Quarts and spraying it yourself to save money. I tried and couldn't find anything it would feed through properly... It is very thin and will run every where. It dries very quickly
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I haven't done a whole quarter yet either but I have removed the whole rear end of a car. I think I would handle the quarter much like I would handle a roof skin. I would try to leave as much of the interior metal around the wheel alone as possible. I would probably block the car up on the rockers or frame supports. I might also drop that side of the rear suspension out to make it easy to work and remove weight from pulling on the strut tower. I might may my seam at the factory roof joint but by leaving the interior metal alone. I don't have a weak joint or a complicated welding job to beef it up. A couple of die grinders and an assortment of heads work really well. Like these The round one is my go to for dealing with spot welds when I don't need to same the panel. Bear in mind they make lots of metal splinters (closed shoes and no fleecy clothes) and need a decent amount of air to run. Once you get the existing mangled quarter off make us some more pictures. Also, remember to always leave more metal than you think you need. You can always take a little more off but putting it back is double the work!!!
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I followed this thread as it was going along, but I don't remember. Was the reverse gear ever analyzed for suitable replacements or interchange with other transmissions?
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I was looking at it on my phone... Worse on the laptop!
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I used Eastwood internal frame spray instead of cavity wax. It has a long tube so you can coat the inside of pretty much every frame rail and has a chromate type finish and if it gets on any outside surface, won't interfere with finish paint
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I would try to find a pressure washer to borrow and go at it. I bet most of that will wash out
