Patcon

and you either have an exceptionally large bladder or you peed outside a lot!!!

Its a datsun 510 heater I dont believe these are on any of the Zs Thanks, anyway

I thought about Zkars He's bailed me out many times. I thought somebody my have a line on an aftermarket source

Cody took the heater apart a year and a half ago. Since he hasn't learned this lesson yet, he misplaced the hardware. I bought new fasteners from Belmetric but we need these clips. Any idea on a source for these?

keep all the upgrades!!

The first stuff you drained looked red not orange like rust. I think your acetone stripped alot more out (the black bucket) I believe someone sealed but didn't get it all the way cured. It needs to be really cured before you add gasoline ( a strong solvent) back into the equation. I used a tank sealer from Caswell that I like a lot. It's a two part epoxy and very tough

Is it possible to get a state side member to ship it to you?

Have you thought about trying a run with no trumpets to see what happens? It's free...

Paltec should have taken care of this. May need to look but not right away in my opinion

Looks like "red coat" in the tank. Its coming out with the fuel. The acetone made it worse. The tank coating is coming out. Needs redoing properly. Might not be the main problem but will need fixing now

If the mixture nuts are all the way up, the needle valves are stuck open or the floats are set too high

Paint thinner? That's what motorman7 uses to degrease old parts

The intake studs could be an issue with the factory lift points. I have never had an issue. You could just wrap a chain around the manifold in the rear which would spread the load over more studs. The rear point does the lions share of the work

I would use some foam sheeting from home depot and some clear latex caulk. easily reversible and doesn't interfere with future painting

I would remove both to service one, I'm old and it's much less difficult than under the car

check for cracks near the drain port or porous welds

I have seen that dent on many cars. I suspect it is a factory mod to make the fender fit

Good to see you around Some squealy brakes in there

If it were me I would repair the chimney to factory and then block it off in a reversible manner. At some point in the future it may make monetary sense to reverse these changes

Okay, I am playing around in areas above my pay grade but why not add a rheostat somewhere discretely, maybe behind the glove box to lean it out a little? We know these old parts tend to drift rich over time

$100 USD for 5 here on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Kunzer-7TI06-5-Pieces-Hedgehog-spike/dp/B00HQGEG3I

I am not sure I read all the post closely enough but I recently had to replace a bad cable on my skidsteer. It did a similar thing it ohm'd out and voltage was good, but it wouldn't pass enough current to spin the starter. Point being, check all the connections and make sure the battery is good. Add a jump box or use a know good battery. Try spinning it with the starter with the plugs removed to narrow down the problem

Also loosen the fill plug before draining it! They can be stubborn. Aweful to drain it then not be able to fill it.

I can tell you how that would work out when my wifes in reverse!!!