Patcon

I agree! Find an earlier car as a donor

I think a choice like that is a good idea. A really wide pan head philips would probably be my choice

What is your plan for fasteners into the riv nuts

I really like the new miata's. I would have liked to have seen more power in them though. If they made 200-225 they could really compete against some upper level cars

My advice for this car would be to find a good frame rail cut from a donor car. You could use a reproduction rail but I think a good OEM cut would make a better repair and if done properly would be nearly invisible. This car is worth the effort

Are you referring to the shank that starts at the bottom of the plastic ball? I believe the ball is molded to it. It should unthread with the ball if you get the locknut loose

True but the hatch vent clips are much much simpler. These little finisher panel clips are quite intricate and need to be really tough and exact to work properly

If you are trying to compare your Z plugs to a modern cars plugs, dont. Modern car ignitions are much, much stronger and need to be respected. They can put you on the ground. The hotter ignition helps the plugs stay cleaner and they tend to be whiter

They should thread off. Open end wrench on the flats of the ball joint. Flare nut wrench on the lock nut. Maybe a little penetrating oil, little prayer. Then turn it loose. Once the locknut is loose the bolt joint should unthread. You should measure first so you can reassemble to the correct length. Double check the threads direction. I believe they are lefty loosy but maybe not

I agree but I can't make them either. I had considered trying to have a batch made but I bet they wouldn't be cheap enough to offset the time involved. Sometimes you gotta pay to play...

My problem is I can't imagine that 7075 is tough enough to compare to a steel lugnut...

I think I would make some patches and move along

On the new to us 350z there are aluminum lug nuts. I really don't have great feelings about that. Does anyone out there have experience with aluminum lug nuts? Are they DOT approved? Are they safe? Thanks, C

Thank you

The oil in the carbs seems really heavy

I agree rockers and even front frame rails is serious surgery. The car needs to be properly supported. If the doglegs are solid I suspect the rockers are too. The rear section is normally the worst. Are there any holes inside the wheel wells near the doglegs? I would avoid taking the radiator support out. I would probably try to take the rear section with the ovals off and then use that access to treat the onterior. A home run would be to have someone fab you a replacement and weld it back in. I have seen much worse...

Are they planning on more? I may need a couple

Are they out of stock at JDM car parts?

I dodnt find any. I have one 240z front strut but didn't see the mate

I will try to look around tomorrow some

I might have a pair...

Odd to see a crack that way. The force is applied from the other side unless the lever was somehow install to the other side of the camshaft eccentric

What were the specs on your variable resistor?

Are your plugs black? An overly rich condition can do this

So how did you run it without the dash? I wouldn't have thought to try that