Patcon

Heat is your friend! Don't make it any worse. Big breaker bar. I probably wouldnt ever resort to LH drill bits. The problem would be getting whats left out of the case without damaging the soft aluminum. Might weld to it as a last resort. I have used a monkey wrench as a nuclear option in the past but that pretty much destroys the fill plug

Ok, so I have a little nugget for any other wagon owner out there... So this is the factory gas cap. Pretty much unobtanium. The last one I saw a year or two ago in Japan for $350 or so So this is what I'm working with The cap is obviously very visible and it would be nice if It pretty much filled the space. So I was googling around and I found a thread, I think it was on "The Realm" that mentioned a Stant gas cap. A G26...so off to Ebay It fits the filler neck fine and appears to seal Once I had the G26 you can find the vehicles it is supposed to fit. 57'-61' Chrysler, Dodge, DeSoto, Plymouth station wagons. Bingo!!! Then started looking for locking gas caps for those Marques We have a WINNER!! Merry Xmas to Cody... It has that factory applied red paint ring on it. It doesn't match and I may try to strip it off and polish it. We'll see after he gets it...

If I were doing this, I would remove from the rail after the fact. Provided the rail is being trashed. I would grind the rail off the bracket so as not to lose any material off the bracket. Make good dimensions first, of course

Beautiful car. Always one of my favorites! Thats a lot of money though. I wouldn't enjoy driving it with todays distracted drivers. It would be too hard to relax and enjoy the drive

Even a trashed transmission usually has a $100 worth of useable parts. Like Zed said they are amazingly robust

$23.5k With 50 minutes to go

$100 is cheap for any 5 spd these days

My vote would be option #3

1.6cc Thats pretty substantial

I will see if I have a section I can test

The car is freshly painted so that side is nice and clean

i have a question. I have been working on the hatch weatherstripping for the Goon. It is pretty much done now but I am not impressed with the bond, If I wanted I could peel the whole thing right back off! The adhesive sticks to the paint pretty good but not to the rubber seal. We have been using the black 3m weatherstrip adhesive and the 3m fast drying adhesive. Both seem to do it. Part way through I wipe the weather strip down with solvent to see if that would help but I couldn't tell that it changed.

Does it do it if you are parked and press the brakes? My suspicion would be blown brake booster,

Their disclaimer states the actual hitch may differ from the image. I suspect it will..

Quite possibly, yes

How they did it; may be why it sits too high

My reasoning was I thought there were significant differences in the hvac controls in an AC equipped 280. The expansion valve issue is new to me. Could you just use all new refrigerant pieces but use the factory controls and ducting?

I think I might look into aquiring the factory parts from a 280z with AC then buy a new dryer, compressor and condenser

Do you have the correct halfshafts out of the 88' car?

No issues with plating in the bores or mating surfaces. They look really nice! Who did the plating?

Did you plate the caliper halves?

How flexible is that NOS filler neck? I have often wondered how malleable the originals were. Most of the ones I have seen are super stiff almost brittle

Chevy V-8 suburbans running TBI have two injectors in a pod mounted near the top of he throttle body

Is it possible it could have gotten 180° out somehow?

It seems to me it has to be spark related You have ether going in and you smelled fuel coming out the other day. So it's breathing. That leaves spark...