Patcon

If the back one runs properly or slightly rich and the front one doesn't it's not the needles

Is that an MN head? Any pics from the sides?

I would go back through these one by one. If fuel is coming off the rail port properly. It has to be at one of the locations. Check the banjo bolt for trash Check the needle valve for trash Check the bottom of the float bowl for debris that could clog the drain Check the jet line for a crimp or possible damage or a flap of rubber or trash blocking flow Check at the bottom of the jet for trash Be methodical, you'll find it

Also if all of the above are correct... It must be one of the following: the bajo bolt filter screens Needle valve Outlet in the bottom of the float boal Jet line or a blockage in the Jet

Needle valve is what rides on the float to fill the float bowl... Jet line was replace with what type of line?

It can only be a few things. The piston doesn't rise properly (needle dragging of the piston is bound up somehow The needle valve is restricting fuel A fuel restriction between the carb and the fuel rail Possible the jet flex line is damaged internally

Pretty car I dont think I would change a thing

I use meguiars products. They have a selection of sheens available. I prefer the natural look products. I agree no silicone and I avoid armor all now

Direction... If you replace it, you have to source the part - done Cut it off realign, weld, grind and limit distortion If you repair it, you have to pull, beat and reshape it back to where it should be but all the metal is there in the close to proper amounts. One concern is if the car took that big of a shot then the whole side of the engine bay could be off. Then you cut and patch it but the repaired section is still not in the right place. My car was put on a frame rack and needed some significant pulling to get back to where it needed to be

Where is the AC dryer? It didn't see it inbthe pictures

Actually small torpedo levels like this normally have straight tubes and can be used on any of the 4 edges

I dont know about common But oil pressure is what removes the slack from the chain. The tensioner aught to be a perfect fit in the bore. No slop

Oh, I think it could be reswaged. A flat end screwdriver and a hammer or may a contraption in the bench vise, something... It'sbroke now, so nowhere but up 😉

Maybe remove the cable completely, ream the bracket. Install the jacket and reswage somehow?

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Here, when they line bore, they shave all of the caps. Torque them down and rebore all the way through for a concentric std bore

That depends. I believe there are 3 unique caps in the L28. The middle cap, the rear cap and the other common caps. You need to know which one is missing and then have it line bored with all the caps installed

One of my thoughts is good donors in Aussie might be hard to come by. They're hard to come by where I'm at much less there...

Why not just source a cap and line bore? Its way cheaper than those caps

My car has similar damage. I had it checked for being square and level on a frame rack. I dollied some of the wrinkled metal but its impossible to fix it all without removing the radiator support. In the end I dont care that much. I won't be able to see it from the drivers seat and it wont affect anything else

330-400hp is an expensive proposition in these cars. It takes a good bit of money to build that kind of motor. Then you have drivetrain and brake upgrades. Ends up requiring a pretty big budget

I know of nowhere to buy new caps. You'll have to find a donor and then line bore the engine. Caps are machined for one location in one motor only

Yes, we started in the middle bottom and finished on top near my hands in those pics. We just did the trim by hand before we set the glass. Wasn't really a problem

Its gonna need a lot of metal work but I have seen a number of these sell for 5k or more

I don't know but it does sort of have that kind of shape. It also has a similar profile, thicker at the top like the back of the tang and thin on the bottom like the blade edge