Everything posted by Patcon
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1973 240z center console fog light switch?
Are "parking lamps" what we'd call fog lights? Or something else?
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240z Pertronix Ignition Not Sparking
Because it was an easy place to get switched power and they're not a very good mechanic..
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Needle Is Too High On Temp Gauge
I would think up. The default position is down; no power. When you short out a gauge sensor, full current-> full heat, it rises quickly. So I would expect lower resistance on a gauge circuit would make it read higher. Maybe one of the "sparkies" will chime in
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Needle Is Too High On Temp Gauge
Maybe cleaner connections now. So more voltage reaches the gauge. So more heating?
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
No worries! That's great. I was going to suggest that. I did the same thing with one of my locks This should have the correct wafers https://www.ebay.com/itm/204248503359
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Still struggling with car at idle after 8 years
Fascinating, didn't know that existed. So you can rock the boat and then name change to try to start over...
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I believe new wafers are available but I bought a vintage kit off ebay that had wafers, springs and replacement face caps
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1973 240z center console fog light switch?
You need someone with the parts fiches for other markets Gavin, Kats or maybe Alan
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Thanks for the reply Garrett By texting with the Captain I was able to get to the right place I was stripping hatch locks because I am going to try to get some thimbles plated. So if you open the edges of the face cap up the spring and button will come up This is the exploded setup Then I couldn't figure out how to get this apart So if you press this lock wafer in it is designed to go out the front. But you need the correct key!!! I did not have the correct key for all my locks. IT will come out the front with enough "encouragement" 😉 I don't believe this did any permanent damage to the thimble So he are the exploded locks The thimbles are pot metal, like the gas door latches. Many chromers have concerns about plating potmetal. We'll see. I have a price from a guy on Facebook marketplace to do them. It was a good price but he's concerned they might peel. Still working on who I want to use
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Still struggling with car at idle after 8 years
All three of these user names are the same person IMO... Not sure how that's accomplished but it's still the OP posting in his own thread
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Ignition not cranking the engine (only click is heard at starter)
I don't think it's the alternator. Your battery would be much lower than 12.5 if the alternator was dead. It's probably either a bad starter, a bad wire or a dirty connection...
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
I was thinking original 240z springs were marked for front and back locations and I was thinking that they were also marked for the Left and Right side of the car too. If so it would make sense that they wouldn't match for different load conditions depending on which side of the car they're on
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1973 Rebuild
Do you have to have the original key to get the cylinder out of the lock assembly?
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Ignition not cranking the engine (only click is heard at starter)
12.9 should be plenty! Even 12.5 should spin it.
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
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SN 00042 Restoration; The Older Twin
They will probably flatten a little with time
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S1 - Rear Hatch Vent/Grille - Correct Components?
BTW don't buy a 3d printed part for that duct seal. It is supposed to be a soft rubber seal. If you see the soft rubber seals for sale, they came from Steve. He is the only one who makes them on the planet!
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S1 - Rear Hatch Vent/Grille - Correct Components?
I would get those from Steve at 240zrubber https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-series-1-hatch-vent-duct-system-gasket-set So to recap: to my knowledge the hatch vents were always plastic. You need the grills The small barrel nuts the small clips that latch the ducts to the hatch The duct seals The ducts and the short tubes that connect the ducts to the hatch exit holes Pages 74 & 75
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SN 00042 Restoration; The Older Twin
Paint can and color code?
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
Sorry, I wasn't referring to the texture on the carbs you restored. I figured that was previous corrosion. I thought your carbs looked great. I was referring to Nils comment on texture after blasting. Vapor honing or wet blasting with glass beads should help provide a nice finish to his carbs
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4/75 Datsun 280Z; Leaf Green, CA market, 250K miles, Long Term Project 03/2023-
Cleaner AL welds than mine 😉
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
I would think Vapor Honing would be the way to go. It shouldn't texture the surface that way
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Zinc platers
I don't think that's unreasonable. I would think most peoples minimum would be that much and it would take me 3 or 4 hours at least to plate that at home.
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SN 00042 Restoration; The Older Twin
So no issue with plating the coil and contacts it looks like?
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1973 240z Custom Wiring From Scratch
Are you using the factory combo switch? You might check there first
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