Patcon

The dual webers can be a challenge to get tuned right. I would go to twin SU's. I suspect your carbs are very rich which I found to be the case when I had a car running dual weber downdrafts

There is a recent thread cataloging the thread sizes in the manifold, I believe...

That's very cool!

Yes, that is the one! Two years, times flies...

Those look like Webers, and I know of no Chinese copies with all the Weber details

I was remembering a thread recently that discussed blade refills for the factory 240z wiper frames. Am I remembering that correctly? I looked through several pages of electrical post and tried several Google searches of the site but can't find it...

Yes, no issues getting rid of scraps!

On another note, I figured out my headlight issues. So the H4 LED's I have are interesting. This is the typical H4 pin locations So when I attached power to the ground location on the LED and tested the other pins the Hi's and Lo's work fine. But they also work fine no matter where I attached the power into the bulb. Very strange So the Phenolic at the bulb has these labels I decided I would wire it this way. Power in on the right side and high beam (red w white) on the left hand side. I then took the other headlight out and made it match. Now everything works as it should. The indicator is on in high beam and completely off in low beam. Another thing off the list

More Christmas pics original-85f943e3-d761-40e3-905a-1a9be56f23ca.mp4

Update Solid state VRegulator @cgsheen1 The needle whips back and forth almost the full range when driving. Negative to positive current at almost a constant wiggle 240 alternator with external regulator, obviously. We did have some magic smoke out of the dash when we started it months ago. So possible Ammeter issue or over current on a dead battery? How would I test the ammeter?

I have texted him and PM'd him from CZC. I haven't heard back...

Yeah, it helps if you don't paint the trace!

A decent project early car with out a lot of rust is probably $6k or more. Careful sand blasting! Especially early cars. It's easy to warp the metal and the blasting work hardens the metal I would switch and try to sell the 280z project to recoup my money out of that project...

I checked voltage earlier today but I will recheck. It was like 14.7, pretty stable but that was at idle

I had one on hand to swap in. If I have another failure, I will probably replace them all with new

I will have to check. I have a voltage regulator but I will have to check to see if it's the points style. What would I be looking for on the voltage display? I was planning on going to an internally regulated alternator eventually

PM me and I will make it more clear

On a different note @SteveJ why does my ammeter wag like crazy? It seems to settle at idle but when driving it wags from one extreme to the other most of the time

On a different note, I drove my car today for the first time!!! It has never run since I've owned it. 16 years... I don't know if this will play IMG_4909.3gp So a very nice Christmas :)

This is the finished cigarette lighter I added some door seals but they need some more work. They didn't adhere very well Here is the broken strut Isolator

I have a front toyota setup that I could sell you for a lot less than that. I took it off my 240z

Thanks guys! Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas

What is the proper way to mount the antenna in an early 240z? Pics?

That's an interesting car. We'll watch that one