Patcon

Did you have a good fuse cover? Mine has defects and I will have to figure out how to solve that. There are repros available that aren't very cheap but I am not sure how accurate they are. Some of the used ones are pretty pricy!

Do I need the combo switches in for this test? I just pulled them to have them refurbished...

Thanks for that. I have a number of parts that will need chroming. Gas door latches, hatch thimbles, ashtray parts, int door trims. Could get expensive... I found a company in Marietta. Did you speak to them? https://www.chromeatlanta.com/?utm_source=GMB&utm_medium=organic

I also worked on rekeying some door locks today. I have an ignition key I like and I want one key for the whole car So I played at making tiny springs!! @emccallum He are the assorted's. Spare locks, replacement parts, lockset pliers, seals, etc Here is a first attempt. It was actually one of the best attempts I am using some orthodontic wire. There was some that was about 0.015" dia and some that was more like 0.010" dia.. It's difficult to get the coils to wrap close to each other. I used a small drill bit as an arbor, like 0.063" dia I found that the thicker wire was a little too heavy for the key door. It installs ok but the door has too much resistance. The thinner wire worked better was more difficult to make neat looking springs Disassembled the lock Lightly blasted the lock case and the inside of the cap. Polished the cap with the buffing wheel. A piece of wire helps keep it from getting away from you Repinned the lockset. I only have 4 different wafers and it seemed like I needed another size. I reworked one with a buffing wheel to make it work for now. Also my replacement wafers don't have the little tab on the side that lock them into the tumbler like the factory ones do. So reassemble is a little trickier. One finished lockset

I tinkered some today I disassembled the door handles so I could plate the brackets. Today, I polished the handles and reassembled them Peened the pins. If that doesn't hold, I will weld a small tack there I had two sets so I picked the best looking ones I also replaced these window stops in the bottom of the doors. They are surprisingly hard to get to and R&R Also put these seals on the doors. I will probably add some sealant under portions of them after the glass frames go in Mounted door handles I bought off Amazon. The main issue with these is the holes in the door aren't really big enough. I had to do some grinding on the door handles pins and they were still a tight fit! But they look nice and they have all the rubber seals on them

Question: When I turn the ignition to off the brake light in the gauges comes on. If I unplug the brake failure switch lead it goes out. Why?

Or maybe this? https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-u-bolt-steering-rack-rubber-bumper

Who did this chrome work for you? and what are the two flat pieces with the lip?

Very nice! Twins!!

Snapchat-1653938150.mp4 Snapchat-1782700663.mp4

Yes, that might be helpful!

I have a number of loose wires in the dash. Heater fan doesn't work. Headlights don't work. Wiper motor works intermittently, mainly on high. I fixed the brake lights today... Alternator isn't working. I tried a different regulator today. It didn't appear to help. We had some smoke out of the dash today and my help said the Ammeter was way over to the right...

We started the car today!! Didn't require Ether and it's being fed off a temp fuel source but it runs!! Lots of electrical issues still. I figured out where the 2 of the 4 wires at the coil go. I have 2 left. I'm not sure what to do with them. I believe the Green one feeds the Tach which is currently INOP. I could use help with that so I don't damage anything

Yeah, I have that part wired. It's the factory harness wires to the coil I am unsure of

Got the hood on today The paint chips incredibly easy. Way too easy it seems. It will probably have to be reworked at some point. We'll see I reworked the black wire on this voltage regulator My middle daughter was here with her boyfriend and they're good shop help! We got all the cooling system hooked up. Fuel lines on the carbs. They bled all the brakes and we primed the fuel pump. Once I get the 280zx matchbox hooked up, it might start. I have lots of electrical problems.. Can someone give me a short course on how these should go to the coil for a 280zx matchbox setup??

Are they for front or rear bumpers? I was thinking they were for front bumpers but the Carpartmanual link shows the rear bumper. I thought the only thing I needed for the rear bumper were the little rubber sleeves to keep it off the paint??

Did all 240z use these? https://zcardepot.com/products/bumper-end-rubber-right-rear-oem-240z?_pos=13&_sid=f19189e2b&_ss=r#

Im using Prestone DOT 3 synthetic

Welcome back @Mike Can madkaw's user name be revived??

Do you have to string small parts before shipping?

Contact therapy and see if they will sell you one

Rich, So I have a question. SavOn plating basically charges a barrel charge for each lot. So that means you really want ALL the hardware to go to the plater at one time. Carb parts, nuts, bolts, screws from the fuel pump, horns, etc. Is that what you do or is there another method?

They show up on the parts diagrams. I have never seen a car with them on it. I'm unsure if the ever really existed, at least in North America

It's yours!!

I believe the idea of bending the bar (#1) originated from Ztherapy IINM