Patcon

That was my concern and I figure the high percentage result is to just use gasoline

I can adjust it if it turns out lean. The big SUs are a pain to do. Cody's are next to impossible to accurately adjust. Will probably go EFI on both of them eventually

But Obviously you would never do that!! 😉

Work on float bowls today. I've been procrastinating on this for a couple of days I tried to use an electric pump I have but it overwhelmed the needle valve. So I rigged up this Mounted the carb to the vise. I found out late the esiest way to do this is to chuck a piece of all thread up in the vise and bolt the carb body to the vise using the all thread like an intake manifold stud. Pulled the feed line off the bottom of the bowl and added a short section of clear line turned up by the bowl. Then this funnel I connected to the clear line with some heat shrink I was having problems with the needle valves not sealing well. Turns out I had some new Grose jets on the shelf. Bought them 5 years ago... Both set about 25mm down from the gasket line After testing the clear line can be lowered to drain everything into a container. I used gasoline to try to be accurate

Nope, that ones got a hole in the diaphragm. When you block the upper port you make it part of the vacuum chamber Unless Zkars says different

I went with 16's for just this reason. I actually prefer the look of the 15s. I am going to start with a 215/55 I think and see if that'll clear. I would like to get into a 225/50 R16 because there were a lot of vintage high performance cars that ran that size. So lots of tire options. I will do what I have to to get the clearance when it comes time

Which car is that? 200lbs is good! Are they like that all the way across?

After cutting the switch off, mine reverses and runs one more cycle to park the blades. If yours runs more than that I would think the issue is in the little relay box mounted to the wiper motor

What's the possibility I could make these in a reasonable amount of time??

So I have been looking for the key hole shutter springs. They are the tiny springs Here are the dimensions I have found something close but they are almost $9 apiece!! Anyone have any ideas on where to find these?

Technically yes. Car on the ground. Roll it back and forth a few times to let the suspension settle. Throw 150#s of olympic weights in the drivers seat and torque it down. The center section of the bushing is metal and bonded really well with rubber to the metal outer shell! When it gets torqued down it can't rotate freely anymore. The only rotation is the rubber flexing. So if you trap it in a position where the car sits higher, then the range of motion from the rubber bushing is higher overall (ie the car will sit higher)

So I worked on the wiper motor yesterday. Probably something else I should have been working on but I didn't feel like it. I finally received this PVC tubing the other day. I bought it for the front markers lights but realized I needed a piece for the wiper motor too. It has white script down the length of it. A quick wipe with lacquer thinner and it's all gone. I can't upload the pictuer I want, but I the plug on the wiper was bad and instead of depinning it, I crushed it with a set of channel locks. Much faster! I replaced the pins on the end of the wiring. Put a new jacket on the cable and reinstalled the wiper motor and bracket into the car using Steve Nixon's great little rubber pieces I took a guess at which way to install the wiper arm. Which is tough to get on with everything in the way. Once it was in the car and bolted down, I added tape on the wiper pivots to simulate arms. I then used my DP switch test rig and added the jump box to verify the arm operation. They operate as they should up instead of down!! One job off the list Also which one of these six holes get a round head screw instead of a hex nut? Is it the top one on the drivers side? It seems like it would the closest to interfering with the cowl

So I worked on a door lock a few days ago. The covers are tough to get off. I have the proper pliers and that gets the lip started but getting it up the rest of the way is tough. It appears the lock bodies were yellow zinc when new. The lock codes on these bodies I suspect the letter prefix determines whether it's a VOSS ket or an X6/X7 key The clip is removed off the back of the body here Cylinder just pushed out to the front Face cap has the staked places on two sides. I drove a small flat head in there to open them up enough to get off Key shutter and spring. This spring is tiny!!! @Captain Obvious Thoughts on using JB weld to fix the grooving in this lock body? I am assuming that none of those marks to either side of the main groove are supposed to be there?

The fit is snug but it will go in. Be mindful there is a front and back side to the bushing. Also the bushings need to be torqued with load on the car! If you do it with the car unloaded the car will sit higher.

Thanks so much! That's exactly what I needed!!

Page 4 Not too far in, page #4...besides there's lot's of interesting info in those pages.

I can't image that the intake track is going to create much more vacuum than that. Disappointing the valve doesn't close under those vacuum conditions. Maybe shoot some PB blaster into it while under vacuum? If you can see the spring try to pry it gently to see if you can get it unstuck? On second look, there is a spring under the valve (the 4 little circles). So the default position is "failed close". Intake vacuum creates low pressure on the under side of the diaphragm pulling it down and opening the valve. So it shouldn't pass air with no vacuum. Use a flashlight and look through the valve and see if you can determine the valve position

Yes, that sounds right. Do you have a way to apply vacuum to the little port?

Does the 70 car have a different antenna switch than this?

I believe they are still available new from Nissan. I'm sure I have the part number in my build thread but no idea what page it's on or how to search just one thread...

They do wear out. Mainly in the center where most of the driving is done. They can be adjusted but the results are unpredictable. It would have to be very worn for me to want to replace it

I know of no way to confirm bad valve seals. They get hard and fail to seal. Difficult to diagnose with them installed. I have never experimented with additives and think that's not a good idea except in emergencies

You will remove the heater controls or the back of the glovebox. Don't worry about tomorrow, today has enough worries of it's own! Deal with it if it happens...

Never mind I found it in your build thread

@inline6 Garrett, I don't remember, did you end up rekeying all your locks? Charles